rolled fender strength?

coopdog123

coopdog123

greased lightning
can anyone comment on the strength of stock rolled fenders? Im concerned that the lack of the bend in the fender will result in a really flimsy piece of metal. like the difference between an I beam and a square bar, will the lack of a 90* bend result in a weak piece?

i know i will need to roll the front fenders and most likely the rears but i can avoid the rears if i need to, the fronts are a must if i dont want to accept a stupid degree of negative camber.
 
They are going to be hard to roll without needing to repaint and without putting creases in the metal. I just took a cutoff wheel to mine and it seemed to work ok.
 
So they didnt loose any strength with that meterial gone? I have a fender roller that you bolt to the hub and gradually tighten against the fendrr lip as you roll it back and forth but i did anticipate some paint damage
 
Same here. On all of my old fox bodies that I built, I would take a cutoff wheel to the piece of the fender that sticks out toward the tire. Never had an issue. Even if you get the occasional tire scrape if you hit a good size bump, the tire won't get cut, it'll just scuff it a little but nothing serious.
 
Get it nice and warm with a heat gun and gently roll it
Just do t get crazy with the heat till the paint blisters warm/almost can't hold on to it warm
Gently roll it
When I did my wife's car I all but rolled the rear lips into a u shape to clear the larger tired and wheels
 
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Plenty of strength
As you can see the inner spots to the outer right right where you are going to roll it
 
slowblk94 said:
They are going to be hard to roll without needing to repaint and without putting creases in the metal. I just took a cutoff wheel to mine and it seemed to work ok.
Click to expand...

That's how we did the lips on my fox body. Much cleaner way of doing it. Back when those cars and these trucks were built FORD left a good amount of material past the spot welds so cutting it off doesn't effect the welds.
 
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