Pimpxshift nitrous control wiring

S

slow94

Well-known member
Wanting to have the pimp ecu control my nitrous. I have a full expansion harness. I know pin 18 is nitrous in and recieves 12 volts. Pins 14 and 15 are nitrous out and go to ground. Attaching a rough sketch of what I think is correct wiring. I will be running a normally closed Hobbs switch on grounds for solenoids as I will be turning nitrous off at a certain psi. I could have just left everything wired in on wot microswitch like I had before but with 2 step now I can't.
c38663537352fd9064212d01d1e2b6fd.jpg


Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 
On top of that you're running your solenoid current through that toggle switch, I wouldn't do that. I ASSume the fuse is on the + side of the toggle switch?
 
Putting some thought in to it this is how I think I'd do it. YOU NEED TO TEST THIS, if you let the magic smoke out it's not my fault :)

Anyway all your arm switch needs to do is tell the Megasquirt the Nitrous is on. You then use regular fused key on power to energize your relay for the solenoids from there the Megasquirt will trigger that relay on the ground side and fire the relay. The hobbs can interrupt ground whenever you want. Also you need to have your N2O solenoids on proper fused key on only power.

N2O-Control.JPG
 
Do y'all think the the toggle can send signal to both pin 18(n20 12v in) and 86 on the relay? Then 85 to pin 14(n2o out ground). Run battery power to number 30 on relay. Then 87 carries power to the solenoids. Can tie a Hobbs switch to the grounds of the solenoids. Think this simplifies it a bit?
 
Yeah, just 12v to the + side (not the coil) is fine. Main rule to follow is the relay coil handles any real current
 
So it would look like this. Toggle sends signal to both the ECU and the relay. Pin 14 grounds 85 when requirements are met in the ECU. 30 handles the main power in. 87 handles power to solenoids. Hobbs switch regulates ground to solenoids.
e079384ebda535bae4ebcd970b41f252.jpg


Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 
I need to go inside and get my glasses lol, but sounds right. You should be able to test it all by disconnecting the Megasquirt and grounding the n2o out to verify the circuit.
 
slow94 said:
So it would look like this. Toggle sends signal to both the ECU and the relay. Pin 14 grounds 85 when requirements are met in the ECU. 30 handles the main power in. 87 handles power to solenoids. Hobbs switch regulates ground to solenoids.
e079384ebda535bae4ebcd970b41f252.jpg
Click to expand...

That looks correct but what is this normally closed switch?

79ff73bb05bbe3d7b536d013182cd25b.jpg
 
Adjustments.jpg
I found this diagram on the stinger forum and mine works good. No full throttle switch either


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok I tried to reply last night but got distracted. I tested my truck by hitting it wot with fuel only, bottle off and data logged to make sure it went pig rich and that it pulled timing
 
Yeah I found that post too but didn't see a diagram. Not a fan of the way that forum is set up. I also posted over there and they said wiring should be fine as well.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 
Why not setup the ECU to turn off the nitrous at a certain MAP? Eliminate the Hobbs? That way it's programmable.
 
FMOS Racing said:
Why not setup the ECU to turn off the nitrous at a certain MAP? Eliminate the Hobbs? That way it's programmable.
Click to expand...
That's what guy on stinger forum said. That option isn't listed directly under nitrous settings which I think should be added. However you can do it with the programmable on/off outputs. I looked at it but im not real sure how to set it up. Even if I do use it I will keep the Hobbs switch as a failsafe. My plan is to also turn nitrous toggle switch off in the truck as soon as I get out of first gear as well for added insurance. I don't want it on for more than I need it.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 
Jamie V said:
Seems like at that point instead of a fail safe it’s just one more item to fail.
Click to expand...
If it fails it shouldnt be catastrophic. It is normally closed so it should always ground. If it sticks open then I just won't have nitrous. It shouldn't be one of those things prone to failing. I would be more suspect of the relay controlling the entire system than the Hobbs switch. I just posted on stinger forum asking how to set the programmable output for what I want to do. Will post here when I get that info. For the time being I still plan to use Hobbs switch. If I use the ECU as well then I will have 3 ways to turn it off.... Hobbs switch, ECU, and toggle switch in cab.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 
I hadn't looked at it and have to admit I'm surprised it's not included given how many boosted folks use nitrous on the launch.



Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top