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Yes sir everything is stock except for a full Bassani exhaust. It says 10.1 for required fuel ,the injector flow is 48, I have not changed that and it says number of injectors 4 which I thought had something to do with batch fire?
 
I’d get everything else under control first and then you can go back and fine tune, but if you get a good air fuel ratio right now then I would move on and sort the rest of the tune out. Just my opinion
 
Raymond_B said:
I’d get everything else under control first and then you can go back and fine tune, but if you get a good air fuel ratio right now then I would move on and sort the rest of the tune out. Just my opinion
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I got it idling really good with a decent AFR I just didn't know if I need to work through getting my numbers down or move on or if this is just something small I have over looked. Thanks for the advice I'm going to try to get my tranny on line tomorrow I guess I hate seeing my truck in parts every where it drives me crazy. Thanks again
 
All I can tell you is don't skip any steps in the start up guide. Do not assume that anything has been done for you.

You should be showing 8 injectors and using batch fire. You also need to input your injector info.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
 
I'm showing that req fuel for a stock truck should be about 12.50. Can someone else confirm that?

While I hate to be the Negative Nellie in the room, the VE table at idle is only one component of getting the fueling correctly, and if you don't have your req fuel and injector setup correct, you'll fight to get everything in place, from starting pulse widths, to warm up enrichment, to accel enrichment, and anything else that stands on base injector pulse. If your req fuel is incorrect, you'll end up with absurd numbers for all of these other tuning points that will leave other people scratching their heads if they're trying to help you.

And let me tell you, getting your truck to start and idle on a warm spring day is a piece of cake compared to a hot summer day after sitting in the Home Depot parking lot for half an hour, or a cold winter day.

Verify that you have followed the startup procedure TO THE LETTER. Don't skip steps.

I was messing with Mike's truck, which is near stock, and finding myself having to add fuel everywhere. All I needed to do was fatten up the req fuel a bit and it would've taken care of everything in one number change. So, I've backtracked, changed the req fuel, rescaled all his tables to be appropriate to a naturally aspirated truck (no reason to waste resolution on positive pressure and high rpms for a stock truck).
 
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FMOS Racing said:
I'm showing that req fuel for a stock truck should be about 12.50. Can someone else confirm that?

While I hate to be the Negative Nellie in the room, the VE table at idle is only one component of getting the fueling correctly, and if you don't have your req fuel and injector setup correct, you'll fight to get everything in place, from starting pulse widths, to warm up enrichment, to accel enrichment, and anything else that stands on base injector pulse. If your req fuel is incorrect, you'll end up with absurd numbers for all of these other tuning points that will leave other people scratching their heads if they're trying to help you.

And let me tell you, getting your truck to start and idle on a warm spring day is a piece of cake compared to a hot summer day after sitting in the Home Depot parking lot for half an hour, or a cold winter day.

Verify that you have followed the startup procedure TO THE LETTER. Don't skip steps.

I was messing with Mike's truck, which is near stock, and finding myself having to add fuel everywhere. All I needed to do was fatten up the req fuel a bit and it would've taken care of everything in one number change. So, I've backtracked, changed the req fuel, rescaled all his tables to be appropriate to a naturally aspirated truck (no reason to waste resolution on positive pressure and high rpms for a stock truck).
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I don’t believe I have skipped anything with me anything is possible I will back track tonight and make sure
 
Yes sir, that's why I was saying to ensure required fuel is correct with appropriate injector and engine size! If that's not right then it's a house built on a poor foundation.

Having said that, once you verify the correct engine size and injector size it should not be changed/tuned IMHO because when you change that you're tuning by changing engine and injector size, NOT ideal. If that's the only way to get the vehicle to run right there's other issues again that's my opinion. Also keep in mind that if your engine is .010, .020,.030, etc put in that size not the stock 351.

What does the base PiMP tune use for idle control? Simple? Or closed loop PID?

I hope this doesn't confuse the folks who are new to all this, but as you guys use the software and the system it will make more sense.
 
This was my settings with batch fire & stock 19lb injectors.

ebb095a80e828befbd433a4147d65cf2.jpg
 
The ms is 12.1, I guess the 2 squirts per cycle changes the 24.2 to 12.1. I also use a little richer stoichiometric to make up for 10% Ethanol when I showed 12.5. Note that ethanol thing won't matter once you start actually tuning, so don't get let it cloud the issue once you get numbers that give reasonable results from the start.

So my advice would be make it look like Jamie's since he was a champion with the stock setup.
 
FMOS Racing said:
The ms is 12.1, I guess the 2 squirts per cycle changes the 24.2 to 12.1. I also use a little richer stoichiometric to make up for 10% Ethanol when I showed 12.5. Note that ethanol thing won't matter once you start actually tuning, so don't get let it cloud the issue once you get numbers that give reasonable results from the start.

So my advice would be make it look like Jamie's since he was a champion with the stock setup.
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Ok yes sir ,I’m going to shoot for that this afternoon.Thanks
 
I just reread that page last night too, not sure why I didn't catch that besides I'm a dumba**!! Thank you fellows for baling me out again it fires right up and my numbers are much closer to where they say they should be. I will try to leave you guys alone.
 
wanalightning said:
I just reread that page last night too, not sure why I didn't catch that besides I'm a dumba**!! Thank you fellows for baling me out again it fires right up and my numbers are much closer to where they say they should be. I will try to leave you guys alone.
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Excellent, it's easy to miss things as the software and everything can be overwhelming at 1st.
 
Right, in a few weeks you'll be down to fiddling with small things here and there, or making plans on how to do radical things like temperature-sensitive fan speed.

I haven't changed anything in my tune since November, and then the only changes I made then were to keep me from making another off-road excursion by restricting the boost in 1st gear. I haven't changed any actual drivability stuff since ~August of '20. I drive my truck an average of about a hundred miles per week.

That said, I'm itching to try the next round of "improvements," but I've decided to mess around with my car for a bit first.

[Edit] I did do a little cold weather starting improvement, too. Just bumping up the initial injector pulse and ASE a little on the coldest mornings of the year since I don't get much change to tune that.
 
FMOS Racing said:
Right, in a few weeks you'll be down to fiddling with small things here and there, or making plans on how to do radical things like temperature-sensitive fan speed.

I haven't changed anything in my tune since November, and then the only changes I made then were to keep me from making another off-road excursion by restricting the boost in 1st gear. I haven't changed any actual drivability stuff since ~August of '20. I drive my truck an average of about a hundred miles per week.

That said, I'm itching to try the next round of "improvements," but I've decided to mess around with my car for a bit first.

[Edit] I did do a little cold weather starting improvement, too. Just bumping up the initial injector pulse and ASE a little on the coldest mornings of the year since I don't get much change to tune that.
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I want to remove the EGR and air pump and clean stuff under the hood once I get my head wrapped around the new system and then I hope to be on to the performance upgrades I haven’t made my mind up on which way is the best way to go there yet. Has anyone had any dealings with CHP performance in California?
 
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So I’m have this this Idling really well and it runs great down the road but when I try to go wide open throttle it goes crazy lean like high teens and low 20’s and for the life of me I can’t figure out what is going on does anybody have any suggestions?
 
wanalightning said:
So I’m have this this Idling really well and it runs great down the road but when I try to go wide open throttle it goes crazy lean like high teens and low 20’s and for the life of me I can’t figure out what is going on does anybody have any suggestions?
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You need to take a data log so we get a better picture of what is going on.
 
wanalightning said:
So I’m have this this Idling really well and it runs great down the road but when I try to go wide open throttle it goes crazy lean like high teens and low 20’s and for the life of me I can’t figure out what is going on does anybody have any suggestions?
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Have you done any auto tuning? It wont do everything for you but it will make changes for you as you drive around. Auto tune gets it close and then I usually go in and make fine adjustments or do some blending. I am still learning how to use the Mega Log Viewer to analyze the data and make changes based on data. I have been driving around with my laptop connected trying to make live changes and it sucks.
 
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