My new truck

Good to see you're staying committed Josh.

If I could make a suggestion/ask a favor?

Don't install that nice alternator with that pulley? ... please.
 
Good to see you're staying committed Josh.

If I could make a suggestion/ask a favor?

Don't install that nice alternator with that pulley? ... please.


Wel, the pulley might not be staying, rumor is that the 140 amp alt will squeal with a singe v-belt only. May need to go to a two belt.
 
Wel, the pulley might not be staying, rumor is that the 140 amp alt will squeal with a singe v-belt only. May need to go to a two belt.

I had a ton of V belt problems after the 130amp swap so I finally broke down and bought a march kit. Once my belt squealed once it was coming off lol. And I only shift the truck at 6300.
 
I had a ton of V belt problems after the 130amp swap so I finally broke down and bought a march kit. Once my belt squealed once it was coming off lol. And I only shift the truck at 6300.

Same here on my 460 and at 6000 rpm it would completely flip the belt upside down no matter how tight it was.
 
Finally made some fuel system progress. I used to work at a radiator shop and am familiar with chemicals and a process to rid the tank of gas vapor before cutting and drilling. That's about all I wanna say, don't want some dumbass blowing themselves up trying to repeat my process.



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Tanks inc setup sure is slick but should come with a small child to get it assembled. Hard to cram my big paws inside the tray and get everything secured. With hammering a recess in my install height ended up being right about 6-1/8" which is about the shortest it will go. I'm sure that made it more difficult.
 
Same here on my 460 and at 6000 rpm it would completely flip the belt upside down no matter how tight it was.

Just had a memory flash back, Cant say all the variables on belt issues,
but back in High school years couple of friends and I had 78 broncos all 400M's, we all did the same big case alt upgrade 100a?? cant remember, anyways one friend had nothing but issues with belts frying and belt flipping or twisting like you describe. Turned out after years of headache for what ever reason he had different pulleys in his bronco and the new alt had the standard larger V groove like our others did. So basically his thinner stock V belt was running in the valley, not on the sides of the V and burning up like every couple months no matter how tight he got it. Just be aware alignment, tension and also matched V sizes, lol.

OP, Looks great Josh, truck is coming along well!
 
Just had a memory flash back, Cant say all the variables on belt issues,
but back in High school years couple of friends and I had 78 broncos all 400M's, we all did the same big case alt upgrade 100a?? cant remember, anyways one friend had nothing but issues with belts frying and belt flipping or twisting like you describe. Turned out after years of headache for what ever reason he had different pulleys in his bronco and the new alt had the standard larger V groove like our others did. So basically his thinner stock V belt was running in the valley, not on the sides of the V and burning up like every couple months no matter how tight he got it. Just be aware alignment, tension and also matched V sizes, lol.

OP, Looks great Josh, truck is coming along well!




I re-used my old pulley, which had been working just fine. If it slips or squeals I'll try a premium belt first then think about going to a dual pulley.

Thanks for the praise Corey, means a lot especially when I've hit the point where it's getting tedious. Spent an hour or so last night scraping undercoating from my gas tank, ugh...thanks for that Bruce
 
Locked out the vacuum advance by cutting off the unused nub, grinding it flush and popping it out. Then drilled a hole into the base plate and threaded a self-tapper in using a small nut for a spacer and good clamp. The screw can only protrude a tiny amount or it will hit the old spring hooks below, took a few tries to get the right clearance.

Turns out the vacuum advance mount is needed to keep the bottom plastic base from moving. Cut it off and used a large vacuum cap to plug the hole the rod went through. Will figure out something a little more elegant later.

Tried to get a better pic of the tack welds on the advance linkage but still came out blurry










Killed the leaf bushings with fire. Messy and stinky but the easiest way, burn the bushing, pound out the inner sleeve then air chisel out the shell. Springs are ready to be cleaned, painted and have new poly bushings put in.









Dist. dropped back in for the last time hopefully. My marks line up so it appears I done good. Cap base is coming back off for some paint, no more eyesore.



Also got the headers pulled off for paint and discovered my valve covers are the source of my oil leak...grrrrr


Hey any fellow FiTech users, where u mounting the controller/screen unit? Was going to mount mine where the radio goes but that will put the cables right into the heater controls
 
May not look like much by the pics but made some progress this week. Here's my hand carved fuel pump Block off plate. Made from 1/8" steel plate by yours truly.


Also fixed the leaking valve covers (pro tip; grind off the powder coat over spray from the gasket surface and they won't leak. Also started installing the C6 kick down cable setup and hooked up and adjusted the throttle linkage.

Here's my spare lightning wheels, threw them on quick to compare. Think I just might keep them for when this rubber wears out...




 
I am digging the black lightning wheels on your truck! You cant go wrong with those colors especially on orange truck and little black accessories like the trim u have on. I say KEEP them!
 
Ok, some progress this week and feeling the pressure now. Set to take Bruce on vacation to damn near Canada next weekend. Why take my old unproven truck when I have two newer vehicles u say? Because roadkill.

Headers cleaned up and painted with Krylon high heat satin black BBQ paint which I've had great luck with.

Gas tank cleaned up and painted (shop employee pictured)

Lokar (well Autoloc knockoff) doesn't supply a bracket for the carb or TB with the kick down cable. The Lokar one looked flimsy so I made some cardboard templates and fabbed one out of 1/8" steel . Sorry for the blurry pice, maybe my blood sugar was low.

Look for a lot of updates this week!

















 
Haven't had time to update the thread until now... Was busy working my tail off to get the truck ready to go to Glacier National Park, then went, made it back (barely) and went straight back to work, today's my first real day "off" in a few weeks ha.

A day and a half before we were set to leave still had no parts installed rear of the cab but everything was cleaned, painted and ready to go in.

Here is the marriage of the FiTech and stock duraspark coil harness
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Where I ran thru wires for the controller, grommet still needed a little silicone on the new hole and popped back in

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done scraping undercoating and de-scaling... this was the biggest time suck of all

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Nifty little MSD connector that I soldered to two of the three wires coming from the duraspark distributor (ground not used) so that I didn't have to cut the FiTech harness

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Fresh paint!

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Tank and rear end in, time to call it a night

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not the best pic but this is where I mounted the LS regulator/fuel filter


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And it started. I was unable to find anyone reporting successful use of a duraspark distributor but I figured a magnetic pickup distributor should work no different than an MSD and so it did, fired right up. After I spent hours assembling the push lock hose, son of a **** my fingers still ache.

first startup :

Two hours after we are supposed to have left Saturday morning here we are finally putting the bed back on.




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hard to tell as I crawled underneath but the pump and lines appeared to have plenty of clearance to the bed floor.

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Aaaaand we hit the road to begin our 900-ish mile trip to West Glacier, MT


to be continued...
 
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I noticed even driving back over to my garage from the shop that the trans (C6) was shifting waaaay late and a bit harsh. I had the driveshaft out for cleaning and painting and had added a quart and a half or so to make up for what leaked out but figured it was still low. Checked it once at home and topped off; the issue was still there.

Other than the initial programming and opening the idle stop on the butterflies a bit more to get the IAC motor stepper counts down a bit the FiTech tune was un-touched when we hit the road and had about a mile on it. I figured it's self-tuning, let it tune on the way!
Threw the rented cherry picker in the back of my Supercrew and returned it, stopped by the shop to torque the leaf spring bolts and throw the bumper back on and we hit the road.
Initial impressions are, man it’s running good! Noticed on my engine parameter display that engine vacuum is a good 3-4” lower than it was with the carb, hmmm. Air/fuel ratio is spot on though so we’ll dig into that when I get back. Immediately I wished I had time to get the wing window seals done. Had to keep the main windows cracked to keep the whistling/howling to a minimum.
Also noticed the engine running cooler, around 165* even blasting down the interstate on an 89* day. Hmm. I did put in a cooler thermostat when I built the motor, may need to swap that out.
Here’s the first fuel stop in Eddie’s corner.
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I didn’t even have time to wash the thick layer of dust off the truck before we hit the road, I hit the glass with cleaner and called it good. Don’t know if any of you watch Roadkill but this trip fit the bill.
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Second or third fuel stop, Valier, MT. Truck running amazing still.

Arrived, very late, at the KOA in West Glacier (500-ish miles). My apologies to anyone who was camping there if I woke you up. Pic is from the next morning.
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A few pictures from the Going to The Sun Rd. Truck ran flawless despite 6,000 or so feet worth of elevation change on the drive. First pic is from the end (St. Mary’s Visitor’s center). Taken with my phone; I’m thinking this one might get blown up and put on the wall, I really like it.
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I only made minimal changes to the tune; tip-in was a bit lean and the decal fuel cut off was abrupt and harsh, made some changes to smooth it a bit. Trans still shifting like it’s at WOT all the time; I checked for vacuum leaks and made sure the modulator was getting vacuum, still need to get to the bottom of that lower vacuum deal.

And so the four day trip went famously until we were about halfway home…
Just east of Helena with almost a full tank truck started acting like it was running out of gas. No power, only running at like ¼ throttle and surging badly. It would keep going though. Pulled over a few times trying to figure it out. I had just filled up about 50 miles prior, bad gas? Limped it to the next town after a bit, swapped out the coil for new, everything else is new!
Limped it to the next town and drained some gas out with the help of a very friendly Tow business owner. A little dirty crud came out at first (that’s not good), but the gas was clean and smelled fresh. Noticed when turning the key on fuel pump sounds very unhealthy. Sounds like someone shot a dolphin in there.
Limped it to the next town about 10 miles at a time (truck would die, I beat on the bottom of the gas tank, get it started again and go). Got a hotel there for the night. Dad came to the rescue the next morning with a flatbed, I’m thinking that with less than 900 miles on the fuel pump it is DONE!
It did sound odd from the beginning. Nothing alarming just not the usual whine I’m used to with OEM electric in tank pumps. More like a groan. Got home, stuffed Bruce in the shop and left him there. Headed over this morning for the autopsy. If it’s defective I hope they stand behind it. I’ll take plenty of pics to document the teardown. We wanted Roadkill, we got it.

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Well apparently I got some beach gas and don't remember

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Fueled up at a small middle of no where station 22 miles before I started having problems.

Calling TanksInc today to see what they think about it then I'll be calling the station. I won't hold my breath for reimbursement.
 
Damn that sucks. I try my best to go only to newer big name stations. Mainly Wawa near my house. I'm always afraid of this happening either by getting regular instead of premium or having water or contaminates in the fuel.
 
Damn that sucks. I try my best to go only to newer big name stations. Mainly Wawa near my house. I'm always afraid of this happening either by getting regular instead of premium or having water or contaminates in the fuel.

Me too, but I was on E and in the middle of no where. Next time I'm bringing gas cans
 
I imagine as I get this EFI more dialed in range will increase. Overdrive would certainly help too! Don't want a big tank hanging down, truck is pretty low

Had a sick kid on days off this week so my time was at a premium. I did manage to get back over to the shop for an hour or so last night. Pulled the pump out of the hanger and blew threw it into a clean paper towel which yielded no debris. Rigged it up with a battery charger in a jar of fuel and ran it a bit. Sounds normal, moves fuel and there were no contaminants in the gas afterwards.

Pulled off the post filter and dumped it into a rag. Dirty nasty brown gas came from the backside, clean from the front. It's a 5 micron filter and looks like it did it's job.


Here's a better lit shot of the junk on the pump tray:






Ordered a strainer sock, new filter and a gasket from tanks Inc which will hopefully be here next week. I'll clean out the tank, reassemble and give it a try. Looks like nothing on top of the tank had any contact with the bed floor, so if you beat the area down about 1/2" it clears fine!
 
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I have to say I love this thread. Just letting you know peeps are following along buddy. I've been eyeballing that FI tech for my 79....

Your not helping me be frugal!
 
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