MAF Conv. on Low Budget

S

SVT Zorro

Member
I recently did a MAF conv. on my 93 Lightning but this time I did not want to spent 1,500 buying a MAF converssion kit and Baumanator controler like I did for another Gen I Lightnig 393 stroker I sold about 2 years ago:cr:

This time I did a lot of reserch and come up with something on mind so I will try to shortly explain because I'm not too good traying to explain things.:scared1:

If you have a MAF mustang harness some connectors items of this harness can be used as a donors like MAF, Injectors, and O2's connectors if not you can buy them used or new, I had and old speed density harness on my storage so I took the Fuel injectors connectors only.

Items used :
1- 60 pin connectors from ebay $ 199
2- BIO0 MAF/E4OD ECU from ebay$ 200 (California emissions specs)
3- MAF Pigtail $ 22.95
4- O2' extenders $ 30 (did not have any O2's connector so I bought a new O2's extenders for Long tube headers and cut the male connectors and just use the female connectors and wires to be connected with the 60 pin harness extender & to 12V source)
5- 2 O2's "used"
6- Fuel Inj. connectors "used"
7- Wires, wires cover, Zip ties,but connectors & misc. around $50
8- MAF & housing "used"
9- Install 2 O2's bungs at Muffler shop $ 20.0
Around $650 spent on all copmponents not counting the used items I already got.

Below are pictures of items used, the great advantage you can built this kit for around $ 650.00 if you find a ECU MAF-E4od used at e-bay or may be buy one reman at Autozone but it will be more expensive @ Autozone but it needs to be a MAF ECU California emission 94-95 Bronco or F150 with 5.8L and e4od transmission. I think they cost around $260 to $280 with core or more if core is not given but not sure.

I used the diagram of Haynes book but I found only 3 wires to control the E4OD are wrong on this book they are ok but only for E4od on speed density ECU not for MAF ECU so the first time I tried transmission did not shift, I found the mistake because I check on FORDFUELINJECTION.COM where it shows the right pins, did the change on harness extender and transmission worked fine. That is why I choose to buy the 60 MAF Harness extender instead of alter stock harness if something goes wrong and no time to troubleshooting you can always remove this Harness extender and reconect to stock ECU and drive Pick up again and later find problem and reinstall MAF kit.

Now I have the MAF:tu on my pick up and a tweecer and ready for future mods like cams, heads, blower and every thing that MAF offer for tune.:scared1: if you want pick up go back to Speed density just remove harness and install stock ECU and reconnect un-touched stock harness. I left the stock harness along with the just one stock O2 sensor intact in the Pick Up just overlap the new MAF harness in case Speed Density going back, but why?:headscratch:

I had to power the 02's from key on 12 volts and for MAF & Fuel injectors from the 12 V wire feeding the stock Fuel injectors becuase is the same source of suply to 12 to ECU and is recomended the ECU and Fuel Injectors be attached to the same source of supply.:tu so if you want to spent less money and not afraid to work on ECU wiring and have some mechanical incline skills and want to have the advantages of MAF can do for you this is right for you

Is to soon to tell if I will gain slightly MPG right now but what I noticed is a better throttle response , but stiil working on tuning with tweecer, just installed a 24 lbs fuel Injectors and C&L MAF 75mm housing with Mustang 5.0 MAF

On one of the pics. you can choose with MAF ECU you can use , I used the BIO0 Bronco - F150 ECU MAF with E4od california emission but others option are available if you need to choose one check the parts numbers that ends with the letters AAA, AA, HB, JB, ect not the computer catch code:HOGO, BIO0, etc. At autozone they go for the CARDONE part # using the part# not the ECU catch code. there is a list of ECU I found you can used but double check before buy one , I bought the BIO0 Code part # F5TF-12A650-BYA and worked fine.

Due to I can only download 5 pics I'm limited to post more pictures.
 
Last edited:
What great info. Thank you. I notice you only relocated one HEGO input and eliminated the HEGO ground in the ford fuel injection diagrams. If you switch to dual O2's for the computer you chose, are their multiple inputs or do you tie them together into that one source? Different diagram for multiple O2's? Thanks for any info and again, thanks for sharing this!
 
Yes the Diagram for MAF ECU , 2 sensors (HEGO) is different tha Non MAF ECU , non maf only have one 1 O2 (HEGO).

The pins # to be used are the following:
Pin # 43, Pin #44 & Pin# 46

Pin #43 is for ground signal from ECU and goes to a ground of one of the O2
Pin # 44 is for ground signal from ECU to the second O2 ground signal
Pin # 46 is the ground signal return to ECU from both O2's , both signal return from both O2 are connected together to the wire going to pin # 46 this is the ground signal return that other sensors share together like EGR, TPS, AIT, Engine Temp
sensor, etc.

The O2 does have 4 wires (some are white & black wires)
1.- ECU ground (pin # 43 sensor 1 or pin # 44 sensor 2) could be black
2.- ECU ground return (pin # 46 for both sensors) could be black as well
3.- Chassis ground (white)
4.- 12 v supply (white) (only when key on , use 15 amp fuse)

You have to identify wich ones are grounds and the only one for 12v suply

On one sensor (4 wires) two goes to the pins described above one more goes to chassis ground and the other one goes to 12 v suply, both sensors can share the 12 v supply when Key on with a fuse of 15 amp.

You can check the Haynes book , on the back you will find this diagrams NON MAF and MAF
or you can go on line to Autozone website and hunt for this diagrams, they have them there.

But remember the Haynes book does have just some pins wires wrong regarding the E4OD, you have to go to Fordfuel injection .com or see the photos above, is not a big deal, that is why I bought that interface 60 pin to modify it with out messing with stock speed density harness.

FOUND AUTOZONE LINK OF DIAGRAMS
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...epairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ecd6
Check the one for 1995 F150/Bronco (Vin H) 5.8L MAF california emissions.
 
Last edited:
great write up. at the beginning you said you installed one at cost 1500 what one was it do you recall? i noticed 1 floating around for that price and wondered if was any good ? for that matter does anyone now the best? im sorry bud on the thread just came to mind reading the monumental task you just perform ed thats out of my scope at this time.

- - - Updated - - -

great write up. at the beginning you said you installed one at cost 1500 what one was it do you recall? i noticed 1 floating around for that price and wondered if was any good ? for that matter does anyone now the best? im sorry bud on the thread just came to mind reading the monumental task you just perform ed thats out of my scope at this time.
 
On previous MAF converssion that it was on my 393 stroker Lightning the addition of a new baumanator controler was the think that boost the price & it was needed due to that kit I bought it was using a A9L ECU 5.0, so baumanator was added to manage E4OD, I did that sevaral years ago and I think Struckby was the guy that sold me the harness. some time you can find here some used good MAF harness converssions FordMotorsport for a decent price.........

I just build the MAF harness outside of vehicle with out touching or messing at all with stock harness, built outside & overlap.
 
Last edited:
SVT Zorro said:
Yes the Diagram for MAF ECU , 2 sensors (HEGO) is different tha Non MAF ECU , non maf only have one 1 O2 (HEGO).

The pins # to be used are the following:
Pin # 43, Pin #44 & Pin# 46

Pin #43 is for ground signal from ECU and goes to a ground of one of the O2
Pin # 44 is for ground signal from ECU to the second O2 ground signal
Pin # 46 is the ground signal return to ECU from both O2's , both signal return from both O2 are connected together to the wire going to pin # 46 this is the ground signal return that other sensors share together like EGR, TPS, AIT, Engine Temp
sensor, etc.

The O2 does have 4 wires (some are white & black wires)
1.- ECU ground (pin # 43 sensor 1 or pin # 44 sensor 2) could be black
2.- ECU ground return (pin # 46 for both sensors) could be black as well
3.- Chassis ground (white)
4.- 12 v supply (white) (only when key on , use 15 amp fuse)

You have to identify wich ones are grounds and the only one for 12v suply

On one sensor (4 wires) two goes to the pins described above one more goes to chassis ground and the other one goes to 12 v suply, both sensors can share the 12 v supply when Key on with a fuse of 15 amp.
Click to expand...

I am making an adapter harness to go from the 93L Speed Density harness to 95 MAF EEC (BIO0 w/ AKC0 tune)....Basically like you did with the harness extender, except I started with a 95 F150 Harness and cut it up to give me the plug with all the wires and mated that to a new 60 pin female connector. My question is would the SD Pin 49 (HEGO Ground) now tie into the MAF harness Pin 46 (Signal Return)? I'm 95% sure this would be correct but just want to check.

Thanks,
Ben
View attachment 31063
 
I think I found my answer on the bronco site.....it looks like that pin 49 now ties into the pin 46 signal return wire. I just hate Googling this stuff as there is so much contradictory/incorrect info and so many different applications and most of the forums someone asks a question but they never post if it works or how its doing later on....
 
According to the charts and diagrams above, pin 9 in speed density is DATA BUS (-) (also called VIP Data Link Connector) and must be removed in order to install the MAF RTN into pin 9 for the mass-air computer, and it then shows in the mass air diagram that pin 19 is DATA BUS (-), but you can't put it there because pin 19 is used for the transmission. So the question is, where do you put pin 9?
 
Here's what I came up with for my MAF conversion before I found a great deal on a FMS kit... this is for E4OD speed density to '94-95 Truck E4OD MAF:

1insert T/LB MAF RTN wire in pin 9
2move PK/LB DLC- wire from pin 9 to pin 19
3move P/O SS2 wire from pin 19 to pin 52
4move O/Y SS1 wire from pin 52 to pin 51
5move W/O AIRB wire from pin 51 to pin 31
6move GY/Y CANP wire from pin 31 to pin 11
7move BR AIRD wire from pin 11 to pin 34 (not used on SD)
8move T/O DLC+ wire from pin 28 (not used on MAF) to pin 18 (not used on SD)
9move GY/LB HO2S wire from pin 29 (not used on MAF) to pin 44 (not used on SD)
10move O/BK TOT wire from pin 42 (not used on MAF) to pin 49
11move O HEGO GND wire from pin 49 to splice with pin 46 signal return
12replace T wire on pin 58 with wire from #1 injector
13replace W wire on pin 59 with wire from #2 injector
14insert LG/O INJ-6 wire in pin 12 (not used on SD)
15insert T/R INJ-7 wire in pin 13 (not used on SD)
16insert LB INJ-8 wire in pin 14 (not used on SD)
17insert T/BK INJ-5 wire in pin 15 (not used on SD)
18insert BR/LB INJ-4 wire in pin 35 (not used on SD)
19insert BR/Y INJ-3 wire in pin 39 (not used on SD)
20insert LB/R MAF wire in pin 50 (not used on SD)

<tbody>
</tbody>
 
- - - Updated - - -

motorhead1024 said:
Here's what I came up with for my MAF conversion before I found a great deal on a FMS kit... this is for E4OD speed density to '94-95 Truck E4OD MAF:

1insert T/LB MAF RTN wire in pin 9
2move PK/LB DLC- wire from pin 9 to pin 19
3move P/O SS2 wire from pin 19 to pin 52
4move O/Y SS1 wire from pin 52 to pin 51
5move W/O AIRB wire from pin 51 to pin 31
6move GY/Y CANP wire from pin 31 to pin 11
7move BR AIRD wire from pin 11 to pin 34 (not used on SD)
8move T/O DLC+ wire from pin 28 (not used on MAF) to pin 18 (not used on SD)
9move GY/LB HO2S wire from pin 29 (not used on MAF) to pin 44 (not used on SD)
10move O/BK TOT wire from pin 42 (not used on MAF) to pin 49
11move O HEGO GND wire from pin 49 to splice with pin 46 signal return
12replace T wire on pin 58 with wire from #1 injector
13replace W wire on pin 59 with wire from #2 injector
14insert LG/O INJ-6 wire in pin 12 (not used on SD)
15insert T/R INJ-7 wire in pin 13 (not used on SD)
16insert LB INJ-8 wire in pin 14 (not used on SD)
17insert T/BK INJ-5 wire in pin 15 (not used on SD)
18insert BR/LB INJ-4 wire in pin 35 (not used on SD)
19insert BR/Y INJ-3 wire in pin 39 (not used on SD)
20insert LB/R MAF wire in pin 50 (not used on SD)

<tbody>
</tbody>
Click to expand...

Oh, right. 19 gets moved. Thanks, Fred.

Say, do you know if the MOB1 uses 1 O2 sensor or 2? I forgot to look when I grabbed it from the junk yard.
 
needmorepower said:
Say, do you know if the MOB1 uses 1 O2 sensor or 2? I forgot to look when I grabbed it from the junk yard.
Click to expand...

Don't know about the MOB1, and RJM doesn't have that one on their list, but if you pulled the MOB1 and the harness that goes with it, you can tell by looking at the harness. Single O2 or 1st-of-2xO2 uses pin #44 (GY/LB) for O2 #1, if it's a 2xO2 setup there will be a R/BK wire for pin #43, no wire there if it's a single O2.
 
Unfortunately, when I first went parts hunting, I didn't really know how I was going to assemble the kit, so I cut parts of the harness which I later decided I didn't want to splice, so I went back to a different truck with a 5.0 in it and took the harness from it. The way I assembled my harness, I used all factory wires and connectors without having to splice anything, except tying 4 wires to other wires at the ECM for which I used wire taps. In hindsight I could have done it in a way that would have had only 2 wire taps and may do that yet when another 5.8 truck shows up at the j/y. The 5.0 truck had one O2, that's all I know at this point.
 
Alright, so another '95 F-150 with a MOB1 showed up at the junkyard and it does indeed have two O2 sensors and it works just fine now that I have it hooked up correctly. I took the entire engine and transmission wiring harness from it like I should have done from the start, so that I could figure out exactly how the second O2 was wired in.

At some point I'll probably add to the information in this thread but first, I'm trying to figure out how I can do a clean looking splice without actually cutting any of the harness wires. I don't want that ECM harness extender that SVT Zorro used. What would be ideal is a jumper like what's in place of the DRL module, which connects 2 different circuits together, but unfortunately it has the wrong style of pins in it so I can't use it with the ECM pins, if that makes sense. Plus, it only does 2 circuits totaling 4 wires, and I need to be able to connect 4 wires together in 1 circuit. The idea is to use 100% Ford parts (don't have to be from an F-150) as I have managed to do, except for a few wire taps which I want to get rid of as they are not waterproof. Any ideas?
 
The reason I used the ECU extender is to modified this extender and keep stock harness 100% intact, I can put back the stock speed density ECU and remove this extender & MAF overlapped harness with no problems at all with out no necessity to re-splice any wire of the stock harness at all. this custom kit require some knowledge and some skills and have the advantage to the 4 things:

1- keep 100 % untouched stock harness
2- can be removed and install back the stock speed density ECU with no re-splice at all
3- avoid to use kits with mustangs ecu that you have to install a E4od controller
4-Pay the double amount for a new kit

So if you are lucky & find one for sale for $500 and looking for one you better buy it, before I made this kit I could not find any used for sale and did not wanted to pay 1,200 again like I did before and decide to explore possibilities and got success not I have a MAF kit and a tweecer to begin with....
 
Dont yall think it would be easier to use the stock computer to control transmission and just use a mustang computer for the motor?
 
SVT Zorro said:
The reason I used the ECU extender is to modified this extender and keep stock harness 100% intact, I can put back the stock speed density ECU and remove this extender & MAF overlapped harness with no problems at all with out no necessity to re-splice any wire of the stock harness at all. this custom kit require some knowledge and some skills and have the advantage to the 4 things:

1- keep 100 % untouched stock harness
2- can be removed and install back the stock speed density ECU with no re-splice at all
3- avoid to use kits with mustangs ecu that you have to install a E4od controller
4-Pay the double amount for a new kit

So if you are lucky & find one for sale for $500 and looking for one you better buy it, before I made this kit I could not find any used for sale and did not wanted to pay 1,200 again like I did before and decide to explore possibilities and got success not I have a MAF kit and a tweecer to begin with....
Click to expand...

Yes, the extender is handy for going back to speed density, but you still have to splice wires when you're using it, right? I'm trying to figure out how to make waterproof splices that aren't ugly and better yet, look factory.

slow94 said:
Dont yall think it would be easier to use the stock computer to control transmission and just use a mustang computer for the motor?
Click to expand...

I have a Pro-M kit that does that, but the kit I built from junkyard parts is much, much simpler and cleaner, though I'm not sure if I have all of the bugs worked out yet. I used a j/y air meter and that may have been a mistake because I have intermittent rough idle, though I haven't really looked into it yet.
 
My thoughts are to just overlay the mustang harness. Most sensors should just hook right up I would think. Only downside is you will need 2 tuning devices to tune the trans and motor. Still would work out a lot cheaper than getting a baumanator. Eventually I will go mass air but that may not be for a while. I did see fiveology racing has a conversion kit that uses one computer for the motor and trans for right at $700. That isn't that bad really.
 
I did this on my DD F-150, so for me there's no trans controller or tuner or anything required. For the Lightning, I believe the shift points in the ECU would have to be changed due to the 4.10's, or just get the speedometer recalibrated, but other than that, no tuning needed.

Now that I've done this first set-up the hard way, I believe I could do the next one for about $200 total which would include a new air meter instead of used. Hard to beat that!
 
slow94 said:
Dont yall think it would be easier to use the stock computer to control transmission and just use a mustang computer for the motor?
Click to expand...
Yes you can do that but you have to have another harness anyway and more wiring and good soldering technique plus you have to deal where to locate ECU out of environment and driving wires out of cab because is better to keep ECU in cab because is not weather proof or you have to build a weather proof box to hold ECU if want to leave out of the cab, is more simple to use a Baumanator to control transmission but more money is need it.
 
needmorepower said:
Yes, the extender is handy for going back to speed density, but you still have to splice wires when you're using it, right? I'm trying to figure out how to make waterproof splices that aren't ugly and better yet, look factory.
Yes you have to do splices when doing you own harness using and modifying the harness extender, use a good soldering techniques and use weather proof heat shrinkage splice sealer tubes to keep moist out of splicing.




I have a Pro-M kit that does that, but the kit I built from junkyard parts is much, much simpler and cleaner, though I'm not sure if I have all of the bugs worked out yet. I used a j/y air meter and that may have been a mistake because I have intermittent rough idle, though I haven't really looked into it yet.
Click to expand...
Yes you have to do splices when doing you own harness using and modifying the harness extender, use a good soldering techniques and use weather proof heat shrinkage splice sealer tubes to keep moist out of splicing.

- - - Updated - - -

needmorepower said:
Yes, the extender is handy for going back to speed density, but you still have to splice wires when you're using it, right? I'm trying to figure out how to make waterproof splices that aren't ugly and better yet, look factory.
Yes you have to do splices when doing you own harness using and modifying the harness extender, use a good soldering techniques and use weather proof heat shrinkage splice sealer tubes to keep moist out of splicing.




I have a Pro-M kit that does that, but the kit I built from junkyard parts is much, much simpler and cleaner, though I'm not sure if I have all of the bugs worked out yet. I used a j/y air meter and that may have been a mistake because I have intermittent rough idle, though I haven't really looked into it yet.
Click to expand...
Yes you have to do splices when doing you own harness using and modifying the harness extender, use a good soldering techniques and use weather proof heat shrinkage splice sealer tubes to keep moist out of splicing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top