fishin-nole
Bone idle and work shy!
Love the truck. What tires did you go with and what psi you running them at. Very good time you ran.
Made my own Gen 3 Lightning, could use some advice.
- Thread starter FATHERFORD
- Start date
FATHERFORD
New member
295/45/20 General UHP's. That run was with 28 psi in the rears, 45 in the fronts.
My next pass I dropped the tires down to 26 psi and cut a 1.9 60'! Unfortunately though I still had to pedal past the 60', which then made my truck shift to second at 4000rpm and bog.. Running another 13.2 a 103.9 mph.
I plan on going to the NMRA event in Houston. Going to take my sway bar off, set the tire pressures back on my best run, install my Extang Tonneau and Hopefully Jim SR@JDM is going to tune my truck a little hotter and see if I can pull that 12 out of it
FATHERFORD
New member
Keeping it alive....
fishin-nole
Bone idle and work shy!
Drop the pressure down to 20 and see what it'll do. That's what I ran my 18" F1's at.
Be careful of what you ask for with tune. While your heads make the truck capable of a lot more power than 2V L's, your eutectic pistons with high place top ring are the weak link, but any detonation will be expensive. Most relate that the stock pistons do not like to make a lot more horsepower than what you are already making. Sure Jim will will keep you safe.
Did you weigh your truck at the track with you in it? I thought the newer trucks weighed a LOT more than the L.
Again, nice truck and numbers.
Did you weigh your truck at the track with you in it? I thought the newer trucks weighed a LOT more than the L.
Again, nice truck and numbers.
turbodgumby
GOT BOOST??
yeah we all say that!! nice truck!! see you at nmra!!
FAST-EDDIE
FAST-EDDIE
thats one good looking truck for sure it looks awsome and as far as the times I think thats pretty good also this body style of trucks are a lot heaver the the lightning body style I have a v6 05 and it weighs 5000 pounds with no one in it I weighed mine a the trash dump
svt4047
Active member
Cold air intake or stock intake?
Opening up the intake anything beyond stock will greatly improve you times. If you haven't already done it you should. An air scoop mounted beneath the bumper with a 4" hose routed into the bottom of the stock air box will help tremendously and will compete with even the best of the CAI currently available. Remember any air that you can direct into the motor is that much less wind resistance you're facing. A cone filter is far less restrictive than a flat filter. If those trucks get their cold air from the drivers side fender like the previous models do then get in there with a dremmel tool and open it up as much as you can.
Valve body accumulator? Quicker shifts, better times, better for your transmission. Give JDM a call I'm sure they can set you up with something.
BTW..From what I've been reading those new 6 speed tranny's have some bugs to work out according to a lot of owners.
Good luck...
Roach
Opening up the intake anything beyond stock will greatly improve you times. If you haven't already done it you should. An air scoop mounted beneath the bumper with a 4" hose routed into the bottom of the stock air box will help tremendously and will compete with even the best of the CAI currently available. Remember any air that you can direct into the motor is that much less wind resistance you're facing. A cone filter is far less restrictive than a flat filter. If those trucks get their cold air from the drivers side fender like the previous models do then get in there with a dremmel tool and open it up as much as you can.
Valve body accumulator? Quicker shifts, better times, better for your transmission. Give JDM a call I'm sure they can set you up with something.
BTW..From what I've been reading those new 6 speed tranny's have some bugs to work out according to a lot of owners.
Good luck...
Roach
FATHERFORD
New member
On JDM's saleen truck they claim on 12lbs and pump gas 480rwhp and they were running 12.60's at 110. This was the same tune they pull the mustang/trailer combo also. What I'm not sure of is if they had their upgraded fuel system or not. I'm running a boost a pump currently.
I know back when it was N/A, with sway bar, tail gate, spare, jack, just about anything that can be removed on a half tank a gas it weighed 4800 lbs. I'm sure with the addition of the blower, traction bars, and none of that removed it's well over 5000lbs with me in it(290lbs myself).
It's a roush/JDM intake that has a giant scoop right behind the driver side headlight. I can't tell though if taking the headlight out helps any or not.
I've thought about the valve body, It's something I need to do that's for sure.
Traction bars were made this weekend and a Extang tonneau installed last night.
Here are pictures of the roush/JDM intake. Yes my engine bay is dirty...
Last edited:
FATHERFORD
New member
Another new best today...
12.9 at 105, DA was about 2300.
12.9 at 105, DA was about 2300.
jeffreycastgsx
New member
Remember that just because you dynoed so much, doesnt mean that, thats how much you have, dynos are never accurate and are to be ONLY considered as a tuning device.
FATHERFORD
New member
Well I had a new best of 12.7 last year, just never posted it. I was bumping off the rev limiter as the old bald m/t e/t streets were just to short(less then 26" diameter).
Since then I have installed OBX long tubes with resonators, PI 2800 Stall convertor, Mosaleen idler(help with belt slip), Fore Precision Works fuel hat and on September 3rd I'll finally get a dynotune at PSI Motorsports.
I also ordered some Hoosier 28x10x17 slicks to not only finally be able to launch the truck, but also change my overall gear ratio so I hopefully won't bump revlimiter at the end of the track.
Here are some pics of my latest purchase/install.
MoSaleen Idler and the Troyer/Fore Precision Works Fuel Pump Setup.
Since then I have installed OBX long tubes with resonators, PI 2800 Stall convertor, Mosaleen idler(help with belt slip), Fore Precision Works fuel hat and on September 3rd I'll finally get a dynotune at PSI Motorsports.
I also ordered some Hoosier 28x10x17 slicks to not only finally be able to launch the truck, but also change my overall gear ratio so I hopefully won't bump revlimiter at the end of the track.
Here are some pics of my latest purchase/install.
MoSaleen Idler and the Troyer/Fore Precision Works Fuel Pump Setup.
FATHERFORD
New member
**I have not been able to finish the write up. There may be some errors. This is a copy from another forum I post on.**
Overall the install was pretty straight forward ONCE I had a wiring diagram. This setup has NO check valves, so longer starts are normal. I am pleased so far the results of this unit. I highly suggest this install is for someone with good electrical and mechanical skills.If there are any errors in the pictures I apologize in advance.
For the install, I took off my bed. 6 bolts, 2 hoses, 3 7mm screws for the filler neck, and 2 connections out back for the lights. Don't forget to unhook the battery first. The factory FPDM is out back and the tank is located driver side center of the truck.
Here you can see the attached Kenne Bell boost a pump wired into the FPDM. You will need to cut and splice into this connector later on.
Before you remove anything from the tank, blow it off with high compressed air.
Now you must remove the fuel lines and electrical connections. To remove lines, you must either press in completely, or pull out a tab then press in. **note** There is a line IN the tank you must unhook also.
Next you will need to take off the ring that holds the assembly in place. To do this you need a screwdriver and a hammer. Don't be afraid to use some force in this process.
[/IMG]
Now before you do anything else, blow off the area again of any loose dirt. You will need to disconnect one line that is inside the tank. Remove carefully. (sorry no picture)
You will need transfer the fuel level float sensor from your factory unit to the aftermarket Fore Precision Work's unit. This is a simple snap on, snap off operation. Disconnect the sensor's wire, DON'T CUT. Connect the wire from the factory level sensor to the wire on the aftermarket unit and use heat shrink to ensure a tight bond between the connection. You will also need to install your fuel pumps and hook them up to the existing wires on the unit. The pump wires will only go one way so it's dummy proof. Tighten hose clamps to the pump once they are installed in the unit. You must also attach a ground wire, just remove a screw and attach(see picture).
Now the unit is ready to install. When installing don't forget to hook up the in-tank line that you disconnected earlier.
You must also place the tab on the hat in the correct orientation. You will see an arrow on the tank(sorry no picture of arrow) Place the factory ring back on using a screwdriver and hammer.
Apparently, somewhere amongst the years, ford decided to change sizes of some lines. Included in the kit is an extra piece that allows you to use either of the lines. Remove the 2.5mm alan headed screws and replace. Snap your lines back on and you are finished with the physical install of the fuel hat setup itself.
**Note**This is where it will get real vague until I get some time to draw up a wiring diagram.
I installed the 2nd FPDM on the drive side frame rail near the factory FPDM. I drilled and tapped(6mm) the frame to use the supplied hardware. I also installed the two relays where the spare tires normally resides(mine has rides in my bed).
The two fuel pump 30amp breakers that come with the kit I mounted on the firewall with existing factory hardware. I made a small plate and bolted the breakers to it. I routed (2) 10 gauge wires from the batter to the bronze studs of the breakers. The supplied 10 gauge wire and looms travels from the "silver" stud of the breakers, through the cowl, down to the driver side frame rail to the back of the truck to the relays.
Just a picture of the fuel hat all wired up and complete..
Picture of the Mosaleen Idler Installed...
Overall the install was pretty straight forward ONCE I had a wiring diagram. This setup has NO check valves, so longer starts are normal. I am pleased so far the results of this unit. I highly suggest this install is for someone with good electrical and mechanical skills.If there are any errors in the pictures I apologize in advance.
For the install, I took off my bed. 6 bolts, 2 hoses, 3 7mm screws for the filler neck, and 2 connections out back for the lights. Don't forget to unhook the battery first. The factory FPDM is out back and the tank is located driver side center of the truck.
Here you can see the attached Kenne Bell boost a pump wired into the FPDM. You will need to cut and splice into this connector later on.
Before you remove anything from the tank, blow it off with high compressed air.
Now you must remove the fuel lines and electrical connections. To remove lines, you must either press in completely, or pull out a tab then press in. **note** There is a line IN the tank you must unhook also.
Next you will need to take off the ring that holds the assembly in place. To do this you need a screwdriver and a hammer. Don't be afraid to use some force in this process.
Now before you do anything else, blow off the area again of any loose dirt. You will need to disconnect one line that is inside the tank. Remove carefully. (sorry no picture)
You will need transfer the fuel level float sensor from your factory unit to the aftermarket Fore Precision Work's unit. This is a simple snap on, snap off operation. Disconnect the sensor's wire, DON'T CUT. Connect the wire from the factory level sensor to the wire on the aftermarket unit and use heat shrink to ensure a tight bond between the connection. You will also need to install your fuel pumps and hook them up to the existing wires on the unit. The pump wires will only go one way so it's dummy proof. Tighten hose clamps to the pump once they are installed in the unit. You must also attach a ground wire, just remove a screw and attach(see picture).
Now the unit is ready to install. When installing don't forget to hook up the in-tank line that you disconnected earlier.
You must also place the tab on the hat in the correct orientation. You will see an arrow on the tank(sorry no picture of arrow) Place the factory ring back on using a screwdriver and hammer.
Apparently, somewhere amongst the years, ford decided to change sizes of some lines. Included in the kit is an extra piece that allows you to use either of the lines. Remove the 2.5mm alan headed screws and replace. Snap your lines back on and you are finished with the physical install of the fuel hat setup itself.
**Note**This is where it will get real vague until I get some time to draw up a wiring diagram.
I installed the 2nd FPDM on the drive side frame rail near the factory FPDM. I drilled and tapped(6mm) the frame to use the supplied hardware. I also installed the two relays where the spare tires normally resides(mine has rides in my bed).
The two fuel pump 30amp breakers that come with the kit I mounted on the firewall with existing factory hardware. I made a small plate and bolted the breakers to it. I routed (2) 10 gauge wires from the batter to the bronze studs of the breakers. The supplied 10 gauge wire and looms travels from the "silver" stud of the breakers, through the cowl, down to the driver side frame rail to the back of the truck to the relays.
Just a picture of the fuel hat all wired up and complete..
Picture of the Mosaleen Idler Installed...
FATHERFORD
New member
I'll know this friday....
I need to make a driveshaft loop, or find someone down here in Houston to do it for a reasonable amount of money.
IYFracing40
New member
NICE! throw some lightning stickers on the rear quarters:thumbup:
FATHERFORD
New member
Here is the dyno sheet... The Dyno was flaking out reading RPM so no torque reading.... 80mph is about 3500 rpm and 135mph is slightly over 6000rpm.
FATHERFORD
New member
I'm not using a roush blower. Roush intake modified for my saleen yes.
No, I did not have to install two fuel pumps. I chose to go ahead and do so for future modifications.
I'm currently running 60# injectors.
My transmission gave up the ghost, my new built transmission from BC Automotive came in and I'll be installing it this weekend.
The 27,28,29th JDM should be tuning me for E-85...
No, I did not have to install two fuel pumps. I chose to go ahead and do so for future modifications.
I'm currently running 60# injectors.
My transmission gave up the ghost, my new built transmission from BC Automotive came in and I'll be installing it this weekend.
The 27,28,29th JDM should be tuning me for E-85...