Heading in right direction?

xboxjx said:
I’ll make a diagram and take some pics of everything I left and took off mine. Their used to be a trick that some guys could trick the egr by taping the sensor halfway down. Usually you’d have to get a chip burned or have a tuner for the computer. Nowadays people are upgrading the systems since later you can do a lot more upgrades and have the software to tune it. Honestly you have to decide what you want to do in the future with the truck and power levels. If you buy a quarter horse then you will max it out later if you upgrade more. Most guys seem to be going with the PIMP system. Do you have a code reader also?


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I don’t have a code reader I’m gonna borrow a friends tonight, and I plan on getting one. I have done a lot of research on this site, and I do love the pimp system, but I feel a quarter horse would probably work for me, I did minor upgrades to try and not make the factory speed density go haywire, I plan on the truck being my daily so I’m not pry gonna go to much more crazy with it (famous last words) lol thank you for all the helpful advice and I will keep everyone posted on what I find out, and see what codes I pick up hopefully tonight l.


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Mavguy92 said:
I don’t have a code reader I’m gonna borrow a friends tonight, and I plan on getting one. I have done a lot of research on this site, and I do love the pimp system, but I feel a quarter horse would probably work for me, I did minor upgrades to try and not make the factory speed density go haywire, I plan on the truck being my daily so I’m not pry gonna go to much more crazy with it (famous last words) lol thank you for all the helpful advice and I will keep everyone posted on what I find out, and see what codes I pick up hopefully tonight l.


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Keep in mind Stingers PiMP uses SD. If you plan on adding boost it's the way to go. I get to add sequential fuel and spark. I am seriously considering E85 due to the lack of intercooler for my Kenny Bell roots charger.

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Dark Lord said:
Keep in mind Stingers PiMP uses SD. If you plan on adding boost it's the way to go. I get to add sequential fuel and spark. I am seriously considering E85 due to the lack of intercooler for my Kenny Bell roots charger.

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That is true, I may put boost to it one day but for now I just want to able to drive it, but I believe I’m going to get a pimp system soon, cause right now this factory stuff just has me frustrated.


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I do believe now it has to do with deleting the egr, I had it scanned and it pulled a code for the egr, even when I had that egr sensor plug on and off, so I guess I’m gonna look into getting a tune done to delete it, and go from there


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Here is what I kept on mine. Their are three sensors that go behind the upper intake. You want to have them electrically plugged in. I still have the charcoal canister hooked up on mine also. This is a bad drawing of the vacuum lines I left hooked up. I’d go straight to the pimp system or make it easy and throw the egr back on. Did you plug the lower intake egr hole by chance? If so remove the plug. The coffee canister is good to keep if you plan to keep Ac since it holds extra air for vacuum.
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xboxjx said:
Here is what I kept on mine. Their are three sensors that go behind the upper intake. You want to have them electrically plugged in. I still have the charcoal canister hooked up on mine also. This is a bad drawing of the vacuum lines I left hooked up. I’d go straight to the pimp system or make it easy and throw the egr back on. Did you plug the lower intake egr hole by chance? If so remove the plug. The coffee canister is good to keep if you plan to keep Ac since it holds extra air for vacuum.
9010d703cf2e1e50e11350195f06bcdc.jpg
fd7a5b328f12d26db6cc31b9405c73d7.jpg
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Ok thank you for all the help, I will look into it, I can’t remember if I have the egr plugged on the lower intake or not, I will try and get all this straightened out and post up progress.


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With a tweecer or quarter horse you can turn that stuff off in the tune and all these issues go away.

You can get a base tweecer from Steve Stock.
 
Jamie V said:
With a tweecer or quarter horse you can turn that stuff off in the tune and all these issues go away.

You can get a base tweecer from Steve Stock.
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Jamie, do the tweecer and quaterhouse require a trans controller? Can you tune it yourself or does it have to go to a guy like Steve. Pretty old tech, is it worth the money? Just asking, I hear guys talking about this as an option.

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I was gonna ask the same question about the trans tuning? Which is better a quarter horse or tweecer? Or is it kind of personal preference. I’ve read a lot on here about the tweecer, I like the sound of it and thanks for the helpful advice Jamie, I deff wouldn’t mind getting one for all the tunes that can be put on it and to fix these problems once and for all.


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Both the tweecer & quarter horse do NOT require a trans controller. They can actually control some of the trans functions in the stock ECU.

Both of them attached to the factory EC you in the same location that a chip would attach. The advantage of them over a chip would be that you can tune on your own vehicle yourself. The quarter horse software (Binary editor) seems to be a little more user-friendly then the tweecer software (caledit) but I do know of at least one person that has used binary editor software to tune on their tweecer.

I have never personally ran the quarter horse, but I do know that it has a battery inside that after a long while will die and you will lose your tune in it. Where as the tweecer has no internal battery so once you have a tune in it you could theoretically leave it in there forever and never lose it.

If you get the tweecer through Steve Stock he will set you up with a base tune and many guys have or do run them in their trucks so there is lots of help here.
 
Jamie V said:
Both the tweecer & quarter horse do NOT require a trans controller. They can actually control some of the trans functions in the stock ECU.

Both of them attached to the factory EC you in the same location that a chip would attach. The advantage of them over a chip would be that you can tune on your own vehicle yourself. The quarter horse software (Binary editor) seems to be a little more user-friendly then the tweecer software (caledit) but I do know of at least one person that has used binary editor software to tune on their tweecer.

I have never personally ran the quarter horse, but I do know that it has a battery inside that after a long while will die and you will lose your tune in it. Where as the tweecer has no internal battery so once you have a tune in it you could theoretically leave it in there forever and never lose it.

If you get the tweecer through Steve Stock he will set you up with a base tune and many guys have or do run them in their trucks so there is lots of help here.
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Okay thank you Jamie I think I’m going to pm Steve, I’m pretty interested in a tweecer now for sure.


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Jamie that is true for the older quarter horse software. However if you have the old style you can send it to quarter horse and they will send you a new one where you can switch the battery out yourself. As for losing the tunes you can save them with a dongle. Unfortunately the binary editor is old tech and it has sense been updated. I learned Themis last year after selling my quarter horse and the buyer told me they changed the binary editor software. Personally I spent hours reading about the twecer and quarter horse and I would run the quarter horse. However after pricing what the quarter horse cost and future upgrades I’d just go straight to a PIMP system. If you want to drive to right now slap the egr back on if you have it or spend about $500 on the quarter horse system.


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Ok thank you to everyone for all the helpful advice, and I’m thankful that I have options and I’m not stuck or screwed. I’m gonna weight out my options and make a decision soon, so I can get another lightning on the road, it’s been a long 2 years since the accident.


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xboxjx said:
Jamie that is true for the older quarter horse software. However if you have the old style you can send it to quarter horse and they will send you a new one where you can switch the battery out yourself. As for losing the tunes you can save them with a dongle. Unfortunately the binary editor is old tech and it has sense been updated. I learned Themis last year after selling my quarter horse and the buyer told me they changed the binary editor software. Personally I spent hours reading about the twecer and quarter horse and I would run the quarter horse. However after pricing what the quarter horse cost and future upgrades I’d just go straight to a PIMP system. If you want to drive to right now slap the egr back on if you have it or spend about $500 on the quarter horse system.


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Quarter horse still has a battery that can die and the tune is gone only difference is now the battery is removable and not soldered to the board. If you can’t find your old tune when your battery dies or is changed your screwed. And pulling the ECU isn’t a 5 min job.

As far as the pimp, I have the PiMPxshift in my truck now and it’s awesome.
 
Jamie V said:
Quarter horse still has a battery that can die and the tune is gone only difference is now the battery is removable and not soldered to the board. If you can’t find your old tune when your battery dies or is changed your screwed. And pulling the ECU isn’t a 5 min job.

As far as the pimp, I have the PiMPxshift in my truck now and it’s awesome.
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What Jamie is talking about isn't just people taking potshots at the QH. There was a gentleman on this board that had a QH battery die, the truck was modded and really would not run with out the QH (different injectors and other things). Not only that but he had it tuned and lost the tune he paid for.

Bottom line, that's a huge weakness in the design.
 
There is another thing they sale called a dongle that you can save your tunes too. My truck had the old battery that wasn’t removable. It died and truck wouldn’t start or read codes. That lead me to the computer. Took the chip out and truck fired right up. If you just want to do small mild upgrades then I’d get a quarter horse. The batteries last about 4 years or more and are removable. You do have to buy some software and each tune cost. You are looking about $1500-$750 maybe on the quarter horse. Or find someone that burns a chip for cheap if you just want to turn off the egr. Personally I’d buy a PIMP system since it is newer and it is great for future upgrades. If you want to just have it running again and enjoy it. Start but getting the $30 or $45 ford digital code reader with a book from Autozone or Orileys. Then just slap a egr back on and see how it does.


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If you loose the dongle your tune is lost. You can’t just remove the quarter horse and have it run fine if you have things like bigger injectors and such.

You can get a tweecer for $300-$450 and the software is free. It has no battery to ever die and the software doesn’t need a dongle to authenticate.

It will work perfect for what you want to do. If you want to go all in then the PiMPxshift is nice.
 
Jamie V said:
If you loose the dongle your tune is lost. You can’t just remove the quarter horse and have it run fine if you have things like bigger injectors and such.

You can get a tweecer for $300-$450 and the software is free. It has no battery to ever die and the software doesn’t need a dongle to authenticate.

It will work perfect for what you want to do. If you want to go all in then the PiMPxshift is nice.
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Jamie I just spoke with Steve through pm, he no longer sells tweeecer’s or does tuning anymore, he said he’s moved on, so I guess I will have to see if I can find one from someone on here.


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