Heading in right direction?

Mavguy92

Member
I just want to run what I’m building by you guys and get your input to if I’m truly going to get what I want out of my L. I just want my truck to stay cruisable to where I can take it for a 2 hour cruise to the beach but still have a bit more power than factory, I’m in the process of doing a frame over restoration do to a drinking and driving accident that I didn’t even cause so I have the cab mounted down on new poly bushings on the 95 f150 frame, I have my 3/4 lowering kit I want to put on, but as for the drivetrain for now I just was gonna keep it speed density with simple bolt ons, I bought the comp cams speed density cam from LMR which is advertised with 1.6 rockers to work well with the speed density and one question is Should I try and push it with 1.7 rockers, or would that throw off the speed density? And would it make that much of a difference than 1.6s? Also curious of a good set of headers u guys think I should run? And the last thing I wanted to do was a throttle body, just simple bolt ones to wake it up a bit, does this seem like I’m heading down the right path? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
You have a bunch of different threads going on so let’s try and keep this all in one spot so guys can follow.

Exhaust is fairly easy. Only truly bolt on exhaust is a bassani. Equal length shorty headers, either a catted or non/catted mid pipe, and either a behind or in front of the passenger rear tire exit.

If you want long tubes you going to have to build a custom exhaust.
 
Sorry about the multiple threads, ok I mean it doesn’t have to be direct bolt on I got the motor out right now and I have a good exhaust guy that will build me a nice exhaust for reasonable, I just wanted to know best routes for some bolt on power without breaking the bank with kooks long tubes lol and messing with the speed density and Cruise ability

- - - Updated - - -

But I like easy so if Bassani is the way to go I deff will
 
6090b6e52fcd0e10ca88a07f3211475a.jpg


Here is a picture of my catted mid pipe and over the axle cat back bassani
 
That Bassani system looks nice! And an easy bolt on... may go that way with my son's truck.. replace the Magnaflow race mufflers with dumps he has now...
 
I did the cats to keep the noise level (and the smell) down a little. I have all my smog stuff gone/turned off but the cats still work.
 
Oh alright I kinda want long tubes but it seems like the only quality pair out there is kooks but I don’t Need inch and three-quarter primaries, I also like jba shorties cause They’re stainless steel but their primaries are inch and a half I feel like it could use some inch and five eights to wake it up a little bit but maybe that’s just me thinking too much as always LOL I’m not trying to build a race truck just something to cruise around and have some fun
 
Oh alright I kinda want long tubes but it seems like the only quality pair out there is kooks but I don’t Need inch and three-quarter primaries, I also like jba shorties cause They’re stainless steel but their primaries are inch and a half I feel like it could use some inch and five eights to wake it up a little bit but maybe that’s just me thinking too much as always LOL I’m not trying to build a race truck just something to cruise around and have some fun
The feedback I’ve heard from Hooker headers for our trucks has been good. I have used Hooker a few times on other projects and they are fine. That’ll probably be the ones I get when the time comes.
 
There is always the Mac headers designed for a fox body with a AOD trans that works. Its a 1 5/8 primary, and part number is TFA-793. Its also a ceramic coated header as well.
 
If you're planning on keeping the truck then just go for the long tubes. Get it over and done. I went through several setups. But if your not dedicated to it then keep what you have and go straight pipe exhaust with stock headers.
 
I have a set of used Bassani headers. Nothing wrong with them, I won 2 auctions on ebay and only needed on. I sand plasted both pair and primed and painted with 1200° metallic grey header paint. $250 shipped. That's me losing money.
Oh alright I kinda want long tubes but it seems like the only quality pair out there is kooks but I don’t Need inch and three-quarter primaries, I also like jba shorties cause They’re stainless steel but their primaries are inch and a half I feel like it could use some inch and five eights to wake it up a little bit but maybe that’s just me thinking too much as always LOL I’m not trying to build a race truck just something to cruise around and have some fun
fb2f2478acabc099a10956352ec9718a.jpg
f3c4d4a070f6b498b262a2ee3cc47fe3.jpg


Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
don't think you'll gain much if anything with a larger throttle body on a slightly modified Gen1 engine. richard holdener a ford fanatic and well-known magazine journalist has a book about sbf dyno tests which is a good reference. may be out of print but may could get one used. his similar tests on 5.0 with larger TB seem to indicate little or no gain. you could possibly use that money better by making a true cold-air intake with a long open-element filter similar to what K&N and others offer. ask comp cams about the 1.7 rockers and batch-fire speed density in a Gen1. the last thing you want to do is wind up with some idle annoyances for the sake of a few hp in the mid range and top end. ask me how i know. previous owner of my truck installed a "borderline" sd cam that may well have excellent idle quality in a sequential sd mustang but has some idle "shudder" from time to time in a sd Gen1 batch-fire system.
 
Thank you for your input, that’s what I was worried about, I definitely don’t want any idle problems, I want 1.7s but if I got to settle for 1.6s then should I even get roller rockers? Cause isn’t stock diameter 1.6? So would I see a big difference between a stamped steel 1.6 to a roller rocker 1.6? and thanks for the input on the throttle body, I have all plans of building a cold air for it. I’m doing a whole frame off restoration I’m definitely dedicated to it so I want to do long tubes, them macs clear good and wouldn’t be too hard for my exhaust guy to build off of? Those are some nice shorties for sale though I have a few friends with Lightning’s around the area I will see if one of them might be interested
 
Thank you for your input, that’s what I was worried about, I definitely don’t want any idle problems, I want 1.7s but if I got to settle for 1.6s then should I even get roller rockers? Cause isn’t stock diameter 1.6? So would I see a big difference between a stamped steel 1.6 to a roller rocker 1.6? and thanks for the input on the throttle body, I have all plans of building a cold air for it. I’m doing a whole frame off restoration I’m definitely dedicated to it so I want to do long tubes, them macs clear good and wouldn’t be too hard for my exhaust guy to build off of? Those are some nice shorties for sale though I have a few friends with Lightning’s around the area I will see if one of them might be interested

Those 1.7's were primarily for the roller cammed Cobra Mustang setup, which I have in my junk. The Cobra roller is a good cam, great idle but you would loose power as it doesn't shine in these trucks until you put a blower on them. Thus why I have one on.
I would call Comp with the cam card and ask what they recommend for rockers with their grind numbers. That way you get the best performance out of their product. Don't forget about springs too.
 
The mac TFA-793 has been used by guys in this group for awhile, you can even search that part number and find threads where it is discussed on here
 
Your only going to get so much power out of a stock headed motor without a power adder. I think your money would be better spent on supporting items.

Converter
Valve body
Full exhaust
Electric fan
Long bars
Etc
 
Back
Top