Gen2 Checklist
Here's a checklist of things L owners should verify to keep their trucks running at their optimal performance? How about a sticky that's a "one stop" thread that will tell what to look for quickly and easy remedies... Let's add anything else needed to make it an easy checklist of the standard things to clean or fix to keep the L's running their best.
I seem to learn everything the hard way - thanks to this site, I've learned a lot and my 04 is running perfectly - usually 355-370 miles (16-17mpg city) until "low fuel" light - (stop and go @ 40-60mph) using 93 premium fuel. Great drivability and strong performance and shifting! Idle is currently smoother than when I purchased with 6 miles on the odometer (not a vibration of my fingers on top of the steering wheel).
For instance - CHECK:
1) Vacuum Lines and Connections - Check each vacuum sensor/actuator by purchasing a 2' vacuum hose and attach to each actuator connection (have a friend apply heavy suction to the hose and place tongue over the hose end to test for vacuum leak down over 15 seconds). If same amount after 15 sec, that sensor connection is vacuum tight like new. Also, verify each vacuum hose or plastic line is air tight also to verify it can carry the vacuum to the sensor. Make sure every connection is tight and if any hose deposits black residue on you, replace the hose. The 90 degree vacuum elbow and hose behind the lower (firewall side) of the engine is known to crack over time due to heat / vacuum / boost. This is best replaced when you pull the intercooler for periodic cleaning (replace with heavy duty heat resistant hose and metal fittings from auto parts store).
*****Huge issue resolved today (17 Feb 14) DRIVEABILITY*****
Seems the oil ingestion into the throttle body (TB) over the years caused the middle vacuum port of the rubber intake elbow (between the TB and the MAF sensor) has swelled and caused the white inline vacuum connector to have a bad fit. This bad connecting line connects to the boost actuator and a small vacuum leak may cause the actuator to work incorrectly. I have been chasing part throttle performance issues for years now and after sealing this vacuum connection and finally found the culprit. My lightning is very responsive now from just off idle through mid throttle then WOT. I fixed it for now by pushing a tiny vacuum tube over the in line white connector (small end) and snipping off the excess. Then pushed this into the rubber intake boot. Problem solved and L is back to AWESOME!
2) Intercooler Pump - After truck warms up, verify coolant is rushing through intercooler reservoir (tank next to top of radiator fan). If not running, the coolant is heating up inside the intake and warming the air going into the engine. To prevent detonation, the PCM (computer) retards the timing and your HP, transmission shifting, gas mileage, and acceleration go to crap. Remedy - replace the pump (easy 20 minute job using 9mm wrench and pliers). After the truck warms up, look at the side of the reservoir to verify the yellow fluid is quickly rushing or bubbling. If it isn't working, hit the intercooler pump (black pump with hoses attached under the front bumper driver's side about 18" under the vehicle and slightly up). If the flow starts up in the reservoir, you need a new pump to prevent detonation in the cylinders on accel. Check the wiring to the pump to be sure its not damaged but if it looks ok and the pump doesn't work with the wiring connector attached and engine running, replace the intercooler pump. There are several vendors advertising them for $90-$135 (dealer wanted $250 plus for the part when I checked last). Takes 20 minutes to change yourself.
3) Replace Fuel Filter - Easy job to remove and put new one on yourself. Should replace every 6-12 months to ensure proper fuel flow to the injectors - (at higher RPM, a restricted filter can lean out air/fuel ratio and causing detonation and breaking a piston rod - called "venting the block" - approx $7000 engine rebuild required).
4) Clean Idle Air Control valve - Gets buildup of carbon on the plunger inside valve and can mess up your idle. Takes a 10mm to remove the 2 screws on the passenger side of the upper plenum. Clean with carb cleaner spray and replace (new gasket not required).
5) Inspect/clean/replace Air Filter - Important that the air filter is clean to help the engine breathe.
6) Clean Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor - Best to clean with MAF sensor spray after inspecting air filter since the MAF is between the air filter and intake on the engine. Will remove any oil buildup on the very sensitive MAF thin element. Helps computer determine how much air is being delivered. If you have an oil impregnated air filter, you're more likely to get an oily buildup on your MAF sensor and requires cleaning the MAF more often (heavy draw of air when high boost pulls oil from K&N filter).
7) Clean PCV - Pull the PCV valve up and spray with Carburetor cleaner - shake the PCV and listen for the ball to make noise.
8) Check all fluid levels - Do not over-fill and do not open coolant reservoir when the engine is hot!!
9) Clean throttle Plates - Remove the rubber intake boot from throttle body on top of engine and spray carb cleaner on throttle plates. Open throttle wide (engine off) and shoot inside of throttle body too (just clean the areas that have carbon /oil buildup (not required when using a good oil separator attached to the PCV valve).
10) Clean Intake Boot - Remove intake boot and inspect for oil accumulation in the deep grooves. This indicates oil being pulled into the intake during heavy accelleration. Seems the stock configuration recycles oil in the intake and blows the accumulation from the sump back into the vacuum PCV system and then is drawn back into the intake boot area. If very oily, go with a good oil separator and you shouldn't have the problem anymore (I put in the L&S and haven't drawn a drop into my intake for 12 months now).
11) Change the transmission fluid - Newer transmissions need fluid changed at least every 40-50k miles due to the close tolerance of the sensors, pistons, and other computer controlled devices. Use a premium Ford Mercon fluid (takes 18-19 quarts). Best to drop the pan and change the filter while you're at it. Best to have it flushed by a machine Ford uses to make sure all of the fluid in the torque converter is replaced too. Ford's transmission flusher pumps new fluid in by way of your transmission coolant lines and they continue flushing until the last of your old brown fluid comes out and looks bright red again with fresh fluid. Then they rehook your lines and your good to go. Costs about $200 or so. Just draining the transmission pan area will only remove 6 qts of the 18 total in your transmission and torque converter.
12) Brake Switch Harness Recall - Make sure you got the recall done so you don't burn your L up overnight while you're sleeping. Quick and free by the Ford or Mercury dealer.
13) Change your oil and filter - duh. Mobil 1 is good insurance and not that much more than regular oils now (about $23-$26 for a 5 qt container of Mobil 1 full synthetic at your local WMart.
14) Check for Loose Bolts - Many have found their aftermarket traction bars or supercharger pulley bolts have loosened over the years. Best to check them and maybe remove them and add a couple of drops of LocTite to the threads before retorquing them to specs.
15) Tire Pressure and Rotation - Suggested 38 lbs in front (due to weight of engine) and 32 lbs in rear (light bed). My Goodyear F1s are wearing evenly over the past 35k miles (not a whole lot of boiling the rears at my age). My original set of F1s wore out along the outside areas first but the middle still had decent tread on them (had to replace early). 40# in the front is supposed to put more even pressure on the whole wide tread (middle included). Suggest rotating them about every 7k miles. Update - changed to Hankook VENTUS ST RH06 295/45 R18 TIRES (frt and back). I'm very happy with the performance, look, and value. If you race at the track - probably not your tire of choice.
16) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Test EGR valve operation with a warmed up idling engine and remove the vacuum hose off of the top of the EGR valve (engine idle should not change - valve properly closed). Pull a vacuum on the EGR top port (suction) while idling and the engine should stumble (receiving exhaust gas into intake and verifies no clogs in EGR Tube or orifice). Clean the EGR Tube Orifice by removing the most forward vacuum hose from the EGR Tube and spray a liberal amount of carburetor/injector cleaner into the port closest to the EGR Valve (30 second blast). This should clean the EGR TUBE orifice to ensure proper flow to the EGR valve and DPFE sensing.
17) Coil Over Plug (COP) - (Plagiarized...but good info) An ignition coil (one over each of 8 spark plugs) may be open or shorted. An open coil would cause a spark plug no-fire and would produce a Check Engine Light over a small amount of driving. Spark to the plugs is only going to be as healthy as what's supplying it ... Coils age from shear. Shear happens when heat buildup over time cause shorts in the winding. You get shorted turns once the coil is overcome from shear. This part of the coil is nothing more than a spool of copper thread. It's within this spool that all this happens. Performance wise, -, as shear adds up, it takes longer for the coil to convert signal to pulse, the coil can function poorly,- EFFECTING PERFORMANCE. This is also referred to as shorted paths within the windings. Shorted winding paths and shorted turns mean the same. The engine cylinder doesn't necessarily have to misfire when a coil is lacking. However, the spark-plug may be shortchanged a certain amount with a weak coil. In this case, A Check Engine Light is unlikely, even though performance is greatly diminished. Replace the COP with Motorcraft replacement (DG508) and beware of knockoffs on ebay.
18) Supercharger Snout Bearings/Coupler (Added 17 Feb 14)
When slightly revving the engine by hand under the hood, check if you can feel the supercharger vibrating/rattling. Many mention sounding like "marbles" in there. Mine made the marbles sound so I ordered a kit off ebay with 2 bearings, the plastic coupler, seal, syringe, and 2x4oz GM supercharger oil bottles. All that's required is finding a press to remove the pulley then pressing the shaft out of the housing. Plenty of videos on this procedure but can do the whole job pretty quickly. I do not recommend using a standard gear puller to do the job since most say you'll then have to buy a new pulley due to the damage it will endure. A hydraulic press makes ease of the work - maybe even just take off the SC snout and take to a shop with a hydraulic press - pay them to let you use it or them change the bearings. Mine is revving smoothly now (77,000 miles). Not sure if the rattling coupler or bearings affects the knock sensor (intake pass side). It's possible the computer retards timing due to perceived detonation when it may just be bad SC snout bearings.
"Goose"
04 White Lightning (62k miles)
4# Lower
Back to stock Plugs (44 gap)
L&S Oil Separator
4# SCT Tune
SCT Livewire
LC-1 A/F Wideband
SCT Livelink Datalogging
Lowered 2" in back (shackles)
Here's a checklist of things L owners should verify to keep their trucks running at their optimal performance? How about a sticky that's a "one stop" thread that will tell what to look for quickly and easy remedies... Let's add anything else needed to make it an easy checklist of the standard things to clean or fix to keep the L's running their best.
I seem to learn everything the hard way - thanks to this site, I've learned a lot and my 04 is running perfectly - usually 355-370 miles (16-17mpg city) until "low fuel" light - (stop and go @ 40-60mph) using 93 premium fuel. Great drivability and strong performance and shifting! Idle is currently smoother than when I purchased with 6 miles on the odometer (not a vibration of my fingers on top of the steering wheel).
For instance - CHECK:
1) Vacuum Lines and Connections - Check each vacuum sensor/actuator by purchasing a 2' vacuum hose and attach to each actuator connection (have a friend apply heavy suction to the hose and place tongue over the hose end to test for vacuum leak down over 15 seconds). If same amount after 15 sec, that sensor connection is vacuum tight like new. Also, verify each vacuum hose or plastic line is air tight also to verify it can carry the vacuum to the sensor. Make sure every connection is tight and if any hose deposits black residue on you, replace the hose. The 90 degree vacuum elbow and hose behind the lower (firewall side) of the engine is known to crack over time due to heat / vacuum / boost. This is best replaced when you pull the intercooler for periodic cleaning (replace with heavy duty heat resistant hose and metal fittings from auto parts store).
*****Huge issue resolved today (17 Feb 14) DRIVEABILITY*****
Seems the oil ingestion into the throttle body (TB) over the years caused the middle vacuum port of the rubber intake elbow (between the TB and the MAF sensor) has swelled and caused the white inline vacuum connector to have a bad fit. This bad connecting line connects to the boost actuator and a small vacuum leak may cause the actuator to work incorrectly. I have been chasing part throttle performance issues for years now and after sealing this vacuum connection and finally found the culprit. My lightning is very responsive now from just off idle through mid throttle then WOT. I fixed it for now by pushing a tiny vacuum tube over the in line white connector (small end) and snipping off the excess. Then pushed this into the rubber intake boot. Problem solved and L is back to AWESOME!
2) Intercooler Pump - After truck warms up, verify coolant is rushing through intercooler reservoir (tank next to top of radiator fan). If not running, the coolant is heating up inside the intake and warming the air going into the engine. To prevent detonation, the PCM (computer) retards the timing and your HP, transmission shifting, gas mileage, and acceleration go to crap. Remedy - replace the pump (easy 20 minute job using 9mm wrench and pliers). After the truck warms up, look at the side of the reservoir to verify the yellow fluid is quickly rushing or bubbling. If it isn't working, hit the intercooler pump (black pump with hoses attached under the front bumper driver's side about 18" under the vehicle and slightly up). If the flow starts up in the reservoir, you need a new pump to prevent detonation in the cylinders on accel. Check the wiring to the pump to be sure its not damaged but if it looks ok and the pump doesn't work with the wiring connector attached and engine running, replace the intercooler pump. There are several vendors advertising them for $90-$135 (dealer wanted $250 plus for the part when I checked last). Takes 20 minutes to change yourself.
3) Replace Fuel Filter - Easy job to remove and put new one on yourself. Should replace every 6-12 months to ensure proper fuel flow to the injectors - (at higher RPM, a restricted filter can lean out air/fuel ratio and causing detonation and breaking a piston rod - called "venting the block" - approx $7000 engine rebuild required).
4) Clean Idle Air Control valve - Gets buildup of carbon on the plunger inside valve and can mess up your idle. Takes a 10mm to remove the 2 screws on the passenger side of the upper plenum. Clean with carb cleaner spray and replace (new gasket not required).
5) Inspect/clean/replace Air Filter - Important that the air filter is clean to help the engine breathe.
6) Clean Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor - Best to clean with MAF sensor spray after inspecting air filter since the MAF is between the air filter and intake on the engine. Will remove any oil buildup on the very sensitive MAF thin element. Helps computer determine how much air is being delivered. If you have an oil impregnated air filter, you're more likely to get an oily buildup on your MAF sensor and requires cleaning the MAF more often (heavy draw of air when high boost pulls oil from K&N filter).
7) Clean PCV - Pull the PCV valve up and spray with Carburetor cleaner - shake the PCV and listen for the ball to make noise.
8) Check all fluid levels - Do not over-fill and do not open coolant reservoir when the engine is hot!!
9) Clean throttle Plates - Remove the rubber intake boot from throttle body on top of engine and spray carb cleaner on throttle plates. Open throttle wide (engine off) and shoot inside of throttle body too (just clean the areas that have carbon /oil buildup (not required when using a good oil separator attached to the PCV valve).
10) Clean Intake Boot - Remove intake boot and inspect for oil accumulation in the deep grooves. This indicates oil being pulled into the intake during heavy accelleration. Seems the stock configuration recycles oil in the intake and blows the accumulation from the sump back into the vacuum PCV system and then is drawn back into the intake boot area. If very oily, go with a good oil separator and you shouldn't have the problem anymore (I put in the L&S and haven't drawn a drop into my intake for 12 months now).
11) Change the transmission fluid - Newer transmissions need fluid changed at least every 40-50k miles due to the close tolerance of the sensors, pistons, and other computer controlled devices. Use a premium Ford Mercon fluid (takes 18-19 quarts). Best to drop the pan and change the filter while you're at it. Best to have it flushed by a machine Ford uses to make sure all of the fluid in the torque converter is replaced too. Ford's transmission flusher pumps new fluid in by way of your transmission coolant lines and they continue flushing until the last of your old brown fluid comes out and looks bright red again with fresh fluid. Then they rehook your lines and your good to go. Costs about $200 or so. Just draining the transmission pan area will only remove 6 qts of the 18 total in your transmission and torque converter.
12) Brake Switch Harness Recall - Make sure you got the recall done so you don't burn your L up overnight while you're sleeping. Quick and free by the Ford or Mercury dealer.
13) Change your oil and filter - duh. Mobil 1 is good insurance and not that much more than regular oils now (about $23-$26 for a 5 qt container of Mobil 1 full synthetic at your local WMart.
14) Check for Loose Bolts - Many have found their aftermarket traction bars or supercharger pulley bolts have loosened over the years. Best to check them and maybe remove them and add a couple of drops of LocTite to the threads before retorquing them to specs.
15) Tire Pressure and Rotation - Suggested 38 lbs in front (due to weight of engine) and 32 lbs in rear (light bed). My Goodyear F1s are wearing evenly over the past 35k miles (not a whole lot of boiling the rears at my age). My original set of F1s wore out along the outside areas first but the middle still had decent tread on them (had to replace early). 40# in the front is supposed to put more even pressure on the whole wide tread (middle included). Suggest rotating them about every 7k miles. Update - changed to Hankook VENTUS ST RH06 295/45 R18 TIRES (frt and back). I'm very happy with the performance, look, and value. If you race at the track - probably not your tire of choice.
16) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Test EGR valve operation with a warmed up idling engine and remove the vacuum hose off of the top of the EGR valve (engine idle should not change - valve properly closed). Pull a vacuum on the EGR top port (suction) while idling and the engine should stumble (receiving exhaust gas into intake and verifies no clogs in EGR Tube or orifice). Clean the EGR Tube Orifice by removing the most forward vacuum hose from the EGR Tube and spray a liberal amount of carburetor/injector cleaner into the port closest to the EGR Valve (30 second blast). This should clean the EGR TUBE orifice to ensure proper flow to the EGR valve and DPFE sensing.
17) Coil Over Plug (COP) - (Plagiarized...but good info) An ignition coil (one over each of 8 spark plugs) may be open or shorted. An open coil would cause a spark plug no-fire and would produce a Check Engine Light over a small amount of driving. Spark to the plugs is only going to be as healthy as what's supplying it ... Coils age from shear. Shear happens when heat buildup over time cause shorts in the winding. You get shorted turns once the coil is overcome from shear. This part of the coil is nothing more than a spool of copper thread. It's within this spool that all this happens. Performance wise, -, as shear adds up, it takes longer for the coil to convert signal to pulse, the coil can function poorly,- EFFECTING PERFORMANCE. This is also referred to as shorted paths within the windings. Shorted winding paths and shorted turns mean the same. The engine cylinder doesn't necessarily have to misfire when a coil is lacking. However, the spark-plug may be shortchanged a certain amount with a weak coil. In this case, A Check Engine Light is unlikely, even though performance is greatly diminished. Replace the COP with Motorcraft replacement (DG508) and beware of knockoffs on ebay.
18) Supercharger Snout Bearings/Coupler (Added 17 Feb 14)
When slightly revving the engine by hand under the hood, check if you can feel the supercharger vibrating/rattling. Many mention sounding like "marbles" in there. Mine made the marbles sound so I ordered a kit off ebay with 2 bearings, the plastic coupler, seal, syringe, and 2x4oz GM supercharger oil bottles. All that's required is finding a press to remove the pulley then pressing the shaft out of the housing. Plenty of videos on this procedure but can do the whole job pretty quickly. I do not recommend using a standard gear puller to do the job since most say you'll then have to buy a new pulley due to the damage it will endure. A hydraulic press makes ease of the work - maybe even just take off the SC snout and take to a shop with a hydraulic press - pay them to let you use it or them change the bearings. Mine is revving smoothly now (77,000 miles). Not sure if the rattling coupler or bearings affects the knock sensor (intake pass side). It's possible the computer retards timing due to perceived detonation when it may just be bad SC snout bearings.
"Goose"
04 White Lightning (62k miles)
4# Lower
Back to stock Plugs (44 gap)
L&S Oil Separator
4# SCT Tune
SCT Livewire
LC-1 A/F Wideband
SCT Livelink Datalogging
Lowered 2" in back (shackles)
Last edited:
ldtu:...Done
