Lucifer Sam 2
50 shades of gray
have the rear drums been adjusted recently?
Factory Big Brake Kit
- Thread starter jwbronco
- Start date
Bootleggers DLX
Shifts Happen
the brakes have been adjusted recently, and i did verify that they were in spec as i was bleeding. i ordered the 1 1/4" expedition Master Cylinder, i will see how that works out for me.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
(h/E)P*CAPE
New member
Two questions, not necessarily for drvovru, just saw posts from him that addressed my concerns
Edit:
Nevermind on #1
What year Expedition is this? Any? Earliest I can find?I'm just about done with my big brake swap, I am going to use an Expedition Master cylinder, it has a 1/ 1/4" bore. I was disappointed I couldn't use the E150 brake lines because of that dumb brake line T on the drivers side, but oh well. I plan on doing a Bronco 4WABS swap later on down the road and the clips for the ABS sensor are nice to have
I had to completely redesign my front airbag setup because the bags were rubbing on the I-beam's and damaging them. Thanks Sportrukldtu: for the helpful ideas.
I think i've seen a reference to the '94 Booster being a diameter of 11 inches and change. The only ones I've seen on RockAuto.com are 10.1" like this https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=29411&cc=1124761&jsn=511
Edit:
Nevermind on #1
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Alex R
Active member
Just finished the upgrade, sorry to say things look better then they feel
. I upgraded the MC to a 99 Expedition 1 1/4 . The peddle doesn't feel firm and I've bled the system twice already. When I switched the MC I noticed the booster had what looked like drip stain that removed the black paint. It is the stock booster and I'm wondering if I might have to change it? :headscratch: My question is should I replace it to a stock booster or as mentioned to a 1994 F250/F350 booster? Also, the diameters that I've seen are 10 and change inches X 7 inches deep. Is this the correct booster? When I look up our stock booster it measures 11 and change inches and not at all as deep.
Please let me know what you guys have done, I want to get the truck back on the road :bigtu:
Alex
(h/E)P*CAPE
New member
Rehashing from a PM so that others can see if they need it.
Never upgraded the booster as I never got a clear answer on that, but I used the 1.25" master cylinder mentioned and it feels phenomenal. Pedal effort is where it was previously.
I will say that since my truck is a clone, it had the booster from the 4.9L still (93 F150, 2wd auto.) I don't think that's worth any real difference though.
Alex, based on what you're seeing and feeling, your booster might've crapped out. The drip stains sound like a leaking master cylinder and that can damage the booster depending on how bad it was.
Never upgraded the booster as I never got a clear answer on that, but I used the 1.25" master cylinder mentioned and it feels phenomenal. Pedal effort is where it was previously.
I will say that since my truck is a clone, it had the booster from the 4.9L still (93 F150, 2wd auto.) I don't think that's worth any real difference though.
Alex, based on what you're seeing and feeling, your booster might've crapped out. The drip stains sound like a leaking master cylinder and that can damage the booster depending on how bad it was.
Alex R
Active member
Thank you for the feed back.
When I slam on the break, the truck seems to bite the breaks like its about to lock them, however. The breaks don't lock and the truck keeps rolling until coming to a complete stop. I did upgrade the MC to the 99 Expedition MC, I pulled it from the Yard though.
I'm just not sure if I should replace the MC for a rebuilt one or change the booster :headscratch:
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Alex R
(h/E)P*CAPE
New member
Ordered my MC through Amazon for like $35-40? There are some things in the brake system I'd get from a yard, but if I do I'm gonna rebuild it before its installed.
No sense trusting something that's been sitting there for god knows how long and was put in the yard for who knows with your safety
No sense trusting something that's been sitting there for god knows how long and was put in the yard for who knows with your safety
Sportruk
Active member
It took me a few tries with the bleeding when I did mine. I had a hell of a time trying to get a firm pedal that could lock up the brakes. I'm still running my stock MC. I did upgrade the booster to the 11" for a '94 because my '88 had the smaller fatter booster. I don't know if the booster helped as I probably changed it at the same time I rebled the system.
Briansshop
Missing My Lightning!
So heres the bracket I came up with two shims to line up the caliper to the bracket. I had to mill the caliper and grind a little on the spindle to make it fit. Im wating on some brake lines from TCE for the final install.
Alex, did you get this working? Maybe I missed it,more info?
Jamie V
Well-known member
I'm curious about this too, I never saw anything else about Todd's comments.
Bigger modified brakes? What a joke !
If you are driving a street vehicle and your current brakes will lock up your brakes then the only thing that will stop you faster is feathering or "pumping" the brakes or ABS.
Only race cars that repeatedly hard brake at speed need bigger brakes, slotted, holed, etc. brakes.
Why ? Because only under those circumstances do brakes heat up and fade after multiple frequent applications.
Again, for one time, on the street, emergency braking if your brakes are strong enough to lock you up [which you want to just barely avoid] then they are as strong as they can be!Everything else is just a big waste of time and money.
Roadbird
If you are driving a street vehicle and your current brakes will lock up your brakes then the only thing that will stop you faster is feathering or "pumping" the brakes or ABS.
Only race cars that repeatedly hard brake at speed need bigger brakes, slotted, holed, etc. brakes.
Why ? Because only under those circumstances do brakes heat up and fade after multiple frequent applications.
Again, for one time, on the street, emergency braking if your brakes are strong enough to lock you up [which you want to just barely avoid] then they are as strong as they can be!Everything else is just a big waste of time and money.
Roadbird
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SA94Lightning
refreshed and alive again
Ive had drilled/slotted rotors and better then oem pads on my street driven mach1 for over 13 yrs. They are an improvement over oem which were a step up from a GT oem which are a step up from V6.
Yes better pads and rotors as well as calipers WILL improve stopping distances.
And NO drilled/slotted rotors do not crack in street use.
And NO I do not drive like gramma
OEM can be improved upon.
But dragging a 5k plus truck down from speed is no easy task.
I need to improve the OEM brakes on the G2 run it hard use the brakes hard a few times and YES they FADE bad.
And its brakes are an improvement over G1 set up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes better pads and rotors as well as calipers WILL improve stopping distances.
And NO drilled/slotted rotors do not crack in street use.
And NO I do not drive like gramma
OEM can be improved upon.
But dragging a 5k plus truck down from speed is no easy task.
I need to improve the OEM brakes on the G2 run it hard use the brakes hard a few times and YES they FADE bad.
And its brakes are an improvement over G1 set up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jamie V
Well-known member
Lucifer Sam 2
50 shades of gray
I would suppose if you're towing anything you wouldn't need to worry about brake fade either....
Or slowing down from 120+mph through the traps....
My ford ranger had better brakes than what came stock on a lightning they really can benefit from an upgrade.
If you're driving to and from bingo night, you're right they probably won't help in that case.
Or slowing down from 120+mph through the traps....
My ford ranger had better brakes than what came stock on a lightning they really can benefit from an upgrade.
If you're driving to and from bingo night, you're right they probably won't help in that case.
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