How many harnesses are on the engine bay? I guess I have a electrical problem. The truck sometimes turns off while I'm driving and does not want to turn on. I wiggle the harness that's on the drivers side fender well and sometimes starts. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Engine harness question.
- Thread starter JR80COUPE
- Start date
my94lightning
I NEED MORE BOOST CAPT!!!
Main front body wire harness,
engine wire harness (on top the engine only).
trans harness?
dash wire harness.
wiring is usually model year specific, as well as a couple variations for different equipment.
post up year and model of truck, as well as drivetrain.
engine wire harness (on top the engine only).
trans harness?
dash wire harness.
wiring is usually model year specific, as well as a couple variations for different equipment.
post up year and model of truck, as well as drivetrain.
my94lightning
I NEED MORE BOOST CAPT!!!
disconnect battery, then,
check these connectors for corrosion or water staining on the pins.
This is assuming there is no rodent damage or previous wiring repairs made.
ECM, check ECM and harness connector sides for damaged, discolored or corrosion on pins.
engine to body harness square multi pin connector near fuse main panel.
dizzy and ign module on fender.
check spout connector.
check bulkhead connectors at firewall (the other 2 near ECM).
if all else fails pull ecm out remove cover plates check for water damage, discolored or burned areas on board.
Note, to remove ECM loosen drivers iner fender liner, ecm pulls out towards engine bay. not from under the dash.
next up, if not related to the wiggle test.
does truck have fuel press when no start?
when it dies does it stumble to death, or just shut off?
ign switch, pickup in dizzy.
truck all stock or ????? anything else we should know about history?
check these connectors for corrosion or water staining on the pins.
This is assuming there is no rodent damage or previous wiring repairs made.
ECM, check ECM and harness connector sides for damaged, discolored or corrosion on pins.
engine to body harness square multi pin connector near fuse main panel.
dizzy and ign module on fender.
check spout connector.
check bulkhead connectors at firewall (the other 2 near ECM).
if all else fails pull ecm out remove cover plates check for water damage, discolored or burned areas on board.
Note, to remove ECM loosen drivers iner fender liner, ecm pulls out towards engine bay. not from under the dash.
next up, if not related to the wiggle test.
does truck have fuel press when no start?
when it dies does it stumble to death, or just shut off?
ign switch, pickup in dizzy.
truck all stock or ????? anything else we should know about history?
I will check it tomorrow. I have not driven my truck in almost a month because I'm afraid it will leave me stranded on the side of the road. It has turned off on me a few times but I'm able to start the truck after sitting for 5 min. I've been doing some research and I'm leaning towards buying a new distributor from ford. Looks like everyone with similar issues have bought a new distributor and it's fixes there problems. Happens to be a bad pick up coil.
How many miles?
Do you have a remote mounted or distributor mounted TFI ignition module? Old modules can heat up and quit, then work again when they cool off. Distributor mounted modules heat up faster than remote mounted modules. If you're over 100kmi, it's a good idea to replace the ignition module anyway.
Do you have a remote mounted or distributor mounted TFI ignition module? Old modules can heat up and quit, then work again when they cool off. Distributor mounted modules heat up faster than remote mounted modules. If you're over 100kmi, it's a good idea to replace the ignition module anyway.
droppedf100
Active member
My Tfi has 380,000 on it lol. I bought a BWD one yesterday while chasing a problem but found the issue before I installed it. Should I replace it just because? I couldn't find a factory ford one. It's remote mounted