E4OD issues/tuning JOG1/maf if needed

jbeach3101

New member
Looks like one end of that resistor goes to the outside edge, under a transistor mounted to the case. Those transistors are for operating the injectors and the solenoids in the trans.
Take a volt OHM meter, measure the resistance across that resistor. If its Red, Black Red, should be 2K ohms, if Orange Black Red, should be 3K ohms. That transistor if I'm correct, is connected to PIN #19, and is for the Shift Solenoid #2 (E40D), maybe.
I would have thought a code would be set for that.
I will check that shortly. If that is one that controls the trans, that could be a lot of my trans issues, feeling like it takes off in/stays in second unless i actually shift it into first. If i put in manual first, it'll take off like a rocket!
 

jbeach3101

New member
I thought making my own shift maps with my baumanator was complicated.......luckily i have 1 ton axles with huge u joints cuz my first test runs with the transgo shift kit and a wrong map, broke my passanger side leaf pack in half!!! I don't know how I didn't break anything else but that sterling 10.5" must be a beast.
i bet this is even worse to learn

i downloaded the software and the ahac2 file, doesn't look too bad but def a ton to learn
don't i still need quarterhorse and a cable?
sorry for hijacking
I don't mind the hijack, it helps some of my many questions too lmao. And I could see a transgo shift kit breaking a leaf with a bad tune. I know my old leafs would've snapped with this trans I had built. OD hits like a tank even with pulling 11k lbs behind it. My OD has 4 clutches instead of 2, and my third has 5 instead of 3, or something like that.

I will tell you, the QH was really easy to use for me with BE and Matt with Leech Motorsports is a wizard doing remote tuning on the MAF stuff and helped me learn ALOT. I think he also tunes the 87-88 SD stuff. EEC analyzer and core tuning have base tunes too. EEC is free, core is not.
 

jbeach3101

New member
It's a resistor and that corrosion in itself probably isn't an issue. The question is, where did it come from?
I couldn't tell you. I drove it in the heavy rain 2 days ago and the seal was dry, PCM was dry, and the inside of the PCM was dry. Little dusty on the top side but.
 

jbeach3101

New member
Looks like one end of that resistor goes to the outside edge, under a transistor mounted to the case. Those transistors are for operating the injectors and the solenoids in the trans.
Take a volt OHM meter, measure the resistance across that resistor. If its Red, Black Red, should be 2K ohms, if Orange Black Red, should be 3K ohms. That transistor if I'm correct, is connected to PIN #19, and is for the Shift Solenoid #2 (E40D), maybe.
I would have thought a code would be set for that.
It ohmed at 1,958. It’s one of the 2k ohm (red,black,red). The only one on the whole board. Checked pin outs and confirmed it goes to the number 19 pin and transistor. Also looked like it was in a similar pathway for 1st gear solenoid.
 

wwhite

New member
It ohmed at 1,958. It’s one of the 2k ohm (red,black,red). The only one on the whole board. Checked pin outs and confirmed it goes to the number 19 pin and transistor. Also looked like it was in a similar pathway for 1st gear solenoid.
Check circuit board side on that resistor, ohm meter on solder side. That corrosion could be a bad connection.
If its still connected good, but that kinda sucks, seemed like you were onto solving the trans issue.
 

jetski247

Member
IVE sent my ecms to ecuexchange and get them back pretty quickly. he use to charge less than 100 but hes gone up. he replaced the capacitors and a couple of resistors on my a9p. hes fixin to do my jog1 to see if that fixes my strange random when cold problem.
 

jbeach3101

New member
@jetski247 thank you for the recommendation. They did find an issue with power supply. Hopefully it fixes all of my issues. So far feels to be the best 150 bucks spent!
 

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jetski247

Member
well its either true or
a really good $150 placibo, sssssssoooooo what i did was

take mine apart when i got it back from them to verify what they did and it was all as advertised. they also wire wheel the outside of the box and cleaned up any corrosion, they just didn't do the circuit board but the shell was done too, an extra step that meant a lot to me. well worth it in my opinion.

and when i installed the ecm, the codes it kept throwing were no longer being thrown, so hopefully it will cure a lot of your issues. the only one i kept having issues with was my egr, but now i know it wasn't the ecm, and now you will know, if you still have codes thrown, its the sensors and not a funky erratic ecm.
 

SVT1077

Paid NLOC Member
I Support the NLOC
Why spend so much time on learning old tech? Are you aware that Stinger Performance makes a replacement ECU that allows you to tune everything with a USB cable and a computer. If cost is an issue, buy a build it yourself Megasquirt and Microsquirt kit. Package is different but the results the same. Just my 2cents
 

jbeach3101

New member
Why spend so much time on learning old tech? Are you aware that Stinger Performance makes a replacement ECU that allows you to tune everything with a USB cable and a computer. If cost is an issue, buy a build it yourself Megasquirt and Microsquirt kit. Package is different but the results the same. Just my 2cents
Moates is 249 for the device without wiring. megasquirt is 800 plus the software to tune, and I like BE. works great on my ranger and my dad's foxbody. I just need to learn SD and i'm good. This thread was mostly for the trans issue I hd. Won't know if its fixed until i get my EEC back. I am still considering mega, but haven't really decided if it's necessary for what i'm doing with the truck.
 

ASAP

Fore!
I Support the NLOC
Moates is 249 for the device without wiring. megasquirt is 800 plus the software to tune, and I like BE. works great on my ranger and my dad's foxbody. I just need to learn SD and i'm good. This thread was mostly for the trans issue I hd. Won't know if its fixed until i get my EEC back. I am still considering mega, but haven't really decided if it's necessary for what i'm doing with the truck.

Check out the Pimpxshift on Stinger.com.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SVT1077

Paid NLOC Member
I Support the NLOC
Moates is 249 for the device without wiring. megasquirt is 800 plus the software to tune, and I like BE. works great on my ranger and my dad's foxbody. I just need to learn SD and i'm good. This thread was mostly for the trans issue I hd. Won't know if its fixed until i get my EEC back. I am still considering mega, but haven't really decided if it's necessary for what i'm doing with the truck.
Technically you could run the truck on 2 Microsquirts. As far as tuning software, there is a Lite version that is free. The pay version is cheap. I have built rides on a budget, so I get it. Shoot, I have had to make tools to do something because I could afford the right tool.
I see guys buy this old stuff, they can’t figure it out then buy the new stuff anyway.
 
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