Dyno day

Peak torque = peak cylinder pressure = greatest chance for loss of spark.

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Well that theory was brought to you by Knob Creek. It takes spark to create max cylinder pressure!

Whatever the case, if it passes, it's not valve float. Both more boost and more rpms from 4000 up will just make float worse.

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hemi24 said:
Plugs are TR6 gapped are .027”, it only happens for a second at 4000 rpms then is clean after it picks back up and goes to 5500


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I’ve been as low as .020” but usually .022”-.025”

Tighten it up a bit and see if it helps. Do you know the A/F ratio when it does it?
 
I’ll tighten the gap to .020 and try it out. Don’t have an A/F gauge in truck so no way to see. If I can’t figure it out I’ll bring it back to my tuner. Thank you guys for all the help!


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You really, really want a wideband!! Especially with that supercharger.

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FMOS Racing said:
The logging and closed loop control is built in, but still have to buy the sensor and the gauge (assuming you want to see a gauge), no matter what.
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Your laptop or tablet can be your gauge if that works for you. Or if you go with the spartan 3 wideband you can view it on your android phone.

https://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-3-adv

Or you can go with the perfect tuning gauge and display all kinds of things from the Pimp.

https://www.stinger-performance.com/store/perfect-tuning-gauge-megasquirt
 
Or you can use an AEM (which Stinger sells now) or Auto Meter or Innovate or any other traditional sensor/gauge combo. They'll all output the 0 to 5v type signal that the MS3 uses.

I personally like having a traditional gauge because I'm old school and even wanted a needle instead of a digital display. When my tablet is in the truck for logging, it's tucked away. I can't stand the reflection from my little phone, can't read the tablet with my polarized sunglasses on, etc.

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Put the MSD 6al on it and that didn’t cure it. Just changed the plugs and tighten gap to .022” and give that a try.
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Tightening gap and changing rotor/cap didn’t help any. Guess I’ll be heading back to the dyno and see if we can see what it’s doing. May change the distributor


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I’d really take a close look at the a/f when you have it on the dyno, and if possible get a data log when it’s off the dyno and fully loaded.
 
Well I figured it out guys. Truck was showing 1/2 tank of gas with only 4.5 gallons in the 18 gallon rear tank. Filled it up, problem solved . We hope to find a place to race this weekend and see how she does. Thanks for all the help and recommendations


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are you using the oem factory fuel pump canister and lid with your walbro 525 pump? looked back in the thread and it looks like you're not. just curious to know the setup it takes for a pump that large to pump adequately to feed your hp results on the dyno.
 
bobwhite said:
are you using the oem factory fuel pump canister and lid with your walbro 525 pump? looked back in the thread and it looks like you're not. just curious to know the setup it takes for a pump that large to pump adequately to feed your hp results on the dyno.
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No sir, I built a hanger for it and the level sender. I’m sure with the loss of the bucket it increase how much fuel needs to be in the tank since is sloshes to the back. We are just gonna keep it 3/4 full since gauge is off by a 1/4.


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