Detroit tru trac ??

alarcont91

Active member
I looking to upgrade rear end with a tru trac and was wondering what all is needed to do the installation of this unit.
 
Ask yourself if you are happy with your current rear gear ratio, if not now would be the time to swap it out. Also axle seals, axle bearings, rear brakes?, u-joints?, pinon seal, pinion nut, crush sleeve, pinion bearings & races, carrier bearings & races, red lock tight, sleeve retainer compound, exciter ring?, 4qts 75w-140, axle shafts?, Right stuff gasket maker, lots of carb / brake cleaner & rags, torque wrench, torque meter, dial indicator.
 
Does anyone have links or part numbers for upgraded axle for our trucks. Thinking I want to add some axles along with the detroit tru trac. Also was wondering about the driveshaft pinion flange and yoke if anyone has some part numbers or links for that too. Thanks
 
These are the part #'s and notes I've collected. Not all applies to you, but here it is.

* Weld axle tubes
* Strange 9" "Big Ford" end H1137
* Strange (Timken) A1013 taper "street" bearing included seals and retainer. If you're having them do the axles just have them press the bearings and seals on
* Strange A1018 "Big Ford" retainer plate
* Strange B1300HSTKIT housing end stud kit
* Strange 2x U1641 (Spicer 1350) u-joints or Strange U-1647 1330 to 1350 u-joint if you're keeping the stock driveshaft
* Motion Racewaorks 8.8 speed sensor kit that includes Strange U1596 yoke for 1350 u-joint
* Strange U1596 pinion yoke if you're not using the Motion Raceworks kit
Brakes
* Wilwood 140-7582-D BLACK, drilled and slotted rotors ** substitute Wilwood 160-13336/37 rotors to get 5x5.5 and 4.5 bolt pattern
* FMS-M-4210-B2 rebuild kit
* FMS-M-4033-G2 Rear cover/girdle
* LUB-LLR-F880 Rear cover/girdle upgrade gasket
* YGA-55040 Upgraded crush sleeve
* Axles, Moser all the way 2 day turn around
 
I'm not going with 9" ends. Just look for some stronger axles and detroit tru trac. Gearing is going to stay the same and I'm going to have new seals and bearing put in. Basically a full rebuild with some upgrades. I want to keep it simple truck isn't going to make any crazy power. Just want to make sure I order the correct stuff. Might even order a new 4.10 gearing setup just to replace the old 20+ yr old stuff
 
I've put them in my L and daily driver as well as a few other vehicles. It's a great mod. Everyone I've done has gone in the exact same way it came out with the same shims, but the backlash on my L was only 0.002" with the original shims so I opened it up a little bit when I put it back together. All you really need just to put in the Trutrac is the Trutrac, new carrier bearings, a shim kit, a dial indicator with magnetic base, and some thread locker. If you like a gasket on the diff cover you need that as well, but I just use RTV. I like to use new ring gear bolts as well. Some people insist on it, others don't. I've never had a used bolt fail, but bolts are cheap compared to the damage that can happen if they fail.

Unless the pinion bearings are high mileage or you have reason to believe there is a problem with them, I wouldn't mess with them. Setting up gears isn't hard to do right, but it's really easy to do wrong.
 
Moser sells replacement 31 spline axles. I had them in my truck. They have them listed for a bronco, but they fit with no issue.

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When I lowered my truck, I was suffering from 1 wheel peel so a rebuild was in order. I decided to bite the bullet and rebuild with a TrueTrac, and glad I did as when we opened up the housing, the spiders were trashed and the side gears were worn to the point that they clicked into a wear notch. I was one good dry hop from eating the rear. I highly recommend replacing the OEM unit with the Eaton if your diff needs a rebuild. Its truly money well spent. It won't lower your ET, but It will give you piece of mind without the problems a spool presents on the street. And no more friction modifier!
 
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