mustgofaster
Active member
The “Death Wobble” in our trucks is usually caused by several factors combined together, so I’m going to go over all of the causes that I can think of & how to correct them.
Things to check:
1. Steering gear
2. Rag Joint
3. Steering linkages (tie rod ends, drag link, etc…)
4. Ball joints
5. Radius Arm bushings
6. I-Beam pivot bushings
7. Wheel bearings
8. Cracks in the Drivers side I-Beam bracket, or the crossmember it mounts to
9. Loose frame rivets
10. Bad shocks
11. Cupped, or badly worn tires
12. Collapsed springs
Diagnosis & correction:
Steering Gear: With someone helping, have them turn the wheel side-to-side, just enough to take up the slack in the steering in each direction. While they are doing this, look @ the steering gear, does it have a lot of play in it, or is the pitman arm moving precicely with the movement of the wheel? If there is a lot of play in the gearbox, it can be adjusted, but only to a point. As the gear wears, it tends to wear in the middle, giving you the slop. If your gear is badly worn, by the time you get it tight in the middle, it will bind in turns. To adjust it, simply loosen the backlash adjuster screw locknut, (located on the top/front of the gear) and turn the adjuster screw in a little. Test the tightness by turning the wheel lock to lock (tires off the ground) until the desired feel. Then tighten the locknut down & you are done. If the gear is too badly worn to adjust the play out, it will need to be replaced.
Rag joint: The rag joint is a rubber coupling just above the steering gear, on the steering shaft. If it has deteriorated, it will give you a lot of play in the steering. This is easily checked and easily replaced if bad.
Steering linkages: Like the steering gear, have someone turn the wheel side-to side, taking up the slack in the steering. While they are doing this, check for play in all of the joints of the steering linkages. (tie rod ends, drag link, and where it connects to the pitman arm.) If any play is found, replace these parts. Please don’t go cheap on these parts. My stockers lasted 160K, my cheapo replacements lasted 10K… Get Moog, Ford, or another good quality part, or else you will be replacing these parts again soon.
Ball Joints: With the tires off the ground, place your hands in the 6:00, and 12:00 positions. With some force, try to rock the top of the tire in-and-out. If you have play here, the ball joints need to be replaced. Again, quality parts are recommended here… I learned the hard way.
Radius Arm bushings: The easiest way to check these is to physically look at them. The rubber should be solid, and not distorted. If the rubber is cracked, distorted, or missing, you need to replace them. If you are replacing the I-Beam bushings, this is a good time to do the Radius Arm Bushings. If not, disconnect the sway bar, then unbolt the back of the Radius Arm from the bracket, pull out the rear half of the bushing, then get a large prybar to pull the radius arm forward out of socket. At this point you can replace the front half of the joint, then put the Radius arm back into it’s socket, replace the rear half, and torque to 80 – 120 ft-lb.
I-Beam pivot bushings: These are hard to see, so inspect them very carefully. It may be best to pull them out of socket to inspect them better. The rubber should be supple, and solid with no cracks or distortion. If they are worn, replace them.
Wheel Bearings: These are often overlooked, and will give your truck the shakes. Check them the same as you would check the ball joints. If they are loose, reapack the wheel bearings & seat them properly.
Cracks in the drivers side I-Beam bracket, or the cross member it mounts to: This is a real problem, and is often accompanied with creaks & groans from the front end. Start by closely inspecting the area for cracks. You may beed to remove the I-Beam bracket to fully inspect the cross member. If cracks are found in the bracket, simply replace it. If cracks are found in the cross member, (also the engine cradle) first weld both sides of the cracks. Then grind the welds flat, and weld in a patch to the recessed area on the top of the cross member. (When I can post pics, I will post pics of the repair on my truck.) If you are not very good @ welding, get someone who is, this is no place to have a weak or messy weld.
Loose Frame Rivets: Simply look @ all of the frame rivets that tie the frame together. If you see any rust coming from under the head of the rivet, that is a sign that it is loose, and you have movement there. Just drill/grind/chisel the bad rivets out & replace with grade 8 or better bolts.
Bad Shocks: this won’t actually cause the problem but it will magnify it.
Cupped or badly worn tires: Also won’t cause the problem but will magnify it. Also: larger than stock tires will magnify it.
Collapsed springs: Won’t cause the problem, but will magnify it. I got new ones from Ford for just $80.00 bux a side. If you suspect that they are sagging, replace them, you won’t believe how much better your truck rides.
This is all I can think of @ the moment, but I will add if I think of anything else. Also, if anyone has any ideas, please feel free to add.
Just a note… Some people have solved the problem with a steering stabilizer. This is only a band-aid & should not be used as a permanent fix, as you could have serious unsafe issues causing the, “Death Wobble”. Steering stabilizers are very helpful though to ease bump steer, especially in trucks that have larger than stock tires, or are lowered. It also takes a lot of the strain off your steering gear, helping it last longer.
Part #’s (incomplete list)
Energy Suspension Componants:
4.7110 - Radius arm bushings $17.99
4.3119 - Axle pivot bushings $17.99
4.4107 - body mounts $66.99
4.2122 - Rear spring & shackle set $35.99
4.5106 - Front sway bar & linkage $18.99
4.5124 - Rear sway bar & linkage $17.99
9.13101 Tie rod end dust boot (2) $2.99
Ford Steering Components:
FOTZ-3A131-A Steering Drag Link
FOTZ-3A131-B Steering Arm
E9TZ-3A130-D Steering SPDL arm
E9TZ-33O4-F Steering Drag Link.
This list is far from complete… Somewhere… I have all of my receipts with all of the part #’s. As soon as I find it, I’ll add the rest of the part #’s.
I hope this helps. Again I’m sorry for the delay. I’ll post pics as soon as I pay my dues so I can. (prolly next week) To those who I promised pics to, I’m sorry that I didn’t send them yet. Please re-send me your E-Mail & I will send the pics out ASAP
Steve
Things to check:
1. Steering gear
2. Rag Joint
3. Steering linkages (tie rod ends, drag link, etc…)
4. Ball joints
5. Radius Arm bushings
6. I-Beam pivot bushings
7. Wheel bearings
8. Cracks in the Drivers side I-Beam bracket, or the crossmember it mounts to
9. Loose frame rivets
10. Bad shocks
11. Cupped, or badly worn tires
12. Collapsed springs
Diagnosis & correction:
Steering Gear: With someone helping, have them turn the wheel side-to-side, just enough to take up the slack in the steering in each direction. While they are doing this, look @ the steering gear, does it have a lot of play in it, or is the pitman arm moving precicely with the movement of the wheel? If there is a lot of play in the gearbox, it can be adjusted, but only to a point. As the gear wears, it tends to wear in the middle, giving you the slop. If your gear is badly worn, by the time you get it tight in the middle, it will bind in turns. To adjust it, simply loosen the backlash adjuster screw locknut, (located on the top/front of the gear) and turn the adjuster screw in a little. Test the tightness by turning the wheel lock to lock (tires off the ground) until the desired feel. Then tighten the locknut down & you are done. If the gear is too badly worn to adjust the play out, it will need to be replaced.
Rag joint: The rag joint is a rubber coupling just above the steering gear, on the steering shaft. If it has deteriorated, it will give you a lot of play in the steering. This is easily checked and easily replaced if bad.
Steering linkages: Like the steering gear, have someone turn the wheel side-to side, taking up the slack in the steering. While they are doing this, check for play in all of the joints of the steering linkages. (tie rod ends, drag link, and where it connects to the pitman arm.) If any play is found, replace these parts. Please don’t go cheap on these parts. My stockers lasted 160K, my cheapo replacements lasted 10K… Get Moog, Ford, or another good quality part, or else you will be replacing these parts again soon.
Ball Joints: With the tires off the ground, place your hands in the 6:00, and 12:00 positions. With some force, try to rock the top of the tire in-and-out. If you have play here, the ball joints need to be replaced. Again, quality parts are recommended here… I learned the hard way.
Radius Arm bushings: The easiest way to check these is to physically look at them. The rubber should be solid, and not distorted. If the rubber is cracked, distorted, or missing, you need to replace them. If you are replacing the I-Beam bushings, this is a good time to do the Radius Arm Bushings. If not, disconnect the sway bar, then unbolt the back of the Radius Arm from the bracket, pull out the rear half of the bushing, then get a large prybar to pull the radius arm forward out of socket. At this point you can replace the front half of the joint, then put the Radius arm back into it’s socket, replace the rear half, and torque to 80 – 120 ft-lb.
I-Beam pivot bushings: These are hard to see, so inspect them very carefully. It may be best to pull them out of socket to inspect them better. The rubber should be supple, and solid with no cracks or distortion. If they are worn, replace them.
Wheel Bearings: These are often overlooked, and will give your truck the shakes. Check them the same as you would check the ball joints. If they are loose, reapack the wheel bearings & seat them properly.
Cracks in the drivers side I-Beam bracket, or the cross member it mounts to: This is a real problem, and is often accompanied with creaks & groans from the front end. Start by closely inspecting the area for cracks. You may beed to remove the I-Beam bracket to fully inspect the cross member. If cracks are found in the bracket, simply replace it. If cracks are found in the cross member, (also the engine cradle) first weld both sides of the cracks. Then grind the welds flat, and weld in a patch to the recessed area on the top of the cross member. (When I can post pics, I will post pics of the repair on my truck.) If you are not very good @ welding, get someone who is, this is no place to have a weak or messy weld.
Loose Frame Rivets: Simply look @ all of the frame rivets that tie the frame together. If you see any rust coming from under the head of the rivet, that is a sign that it is loose, and you have movement there. Just drill/grind/chisel the bad rivets out & replace with grade 8 or better bolts.
Bad Shocks: this won’t actually cause the problem but it will magnify it.
Cupped or badly worn tires: Also won’t cause the problem but will magnify it. Also: larger than stock tires will magnify it.
Collapsed springs: Won’t cause the problem, but will magnify it. I got new ones from Ford for just $80.00 bux a side. If you suspect that they are sagging, replace them, you won’t believe how much better your truck rides.
This is all I can think of @ the moment, but I will add if I think of anything else. Also, if anyone has any ideas, please feel free to add.
Just a note… Some people have solved the problem with a steering stabilizer. This is only a band-aid & should not be used as a permanent fix, as you could have serious unsafe issues causing the, “Death Wobble”. Steering stabilizers are very helpful though to ease bump steer, especially in trucks that have larger than stock tires, or are lowered. It also takes a lot of the strain off your steering gear, helping it last longer.
Part #’s (incomplete list)
Energy Suspension Componants:
4.7110 - Radius arm bushings $17.99
4.3119 - Axle pivot bushings $17.99
4.4107 - body mounts $66.99
4.2122 - Rear spring & shackle set $35.99
4.5106 - Front sway bar & linkage $18.99
4.5124 - Rear sway bar & linkage $17.99
9.13101 Tie rod end dust boot (2) $2.99
Ford Steering Components:
FOTZ-3A131-A Steering Drag Link
FOTZ-3A131-B Steering Arm
E9TZ-3A130-D Steering SPDL arm
E9TZ-33O4-F Steering Drag Link.
This list is far from complete… Somewhere… I have all of my receipts with all of the part #’s. As soon as I find it, I’ll add the rest of the part #’s.
I hope this helps. Again I’m sorry for the delay. I’ll post pics as soon as I pay my dues so I can. (prolly next week) To those who I promised pics to, I’m sorry that I didn’t send them yet. Please re-send me your E-Mail & I will send the pics out ASAP
Steve
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