Computer Issue I think 93L

If that is the computer you got from me try pulling out the jet chip. I have no info on what that chip was tuned for. Most likely just a canned tune and wont make a difference but My truck had aftermarket shorties and exhaust (still with cats) and a cai, otherwhise totally stock. It started and ran fine and when I pulled the plugs they were not sooted up just a good tan. Also when I pulled the heads the exhaust valves were almost white and very little carbon build up in combustion chamber and top of pistons. It was def not running rich. Being you have the same codes you probably still have an issue elsewhere.
 
Cant remember if you have already done this but have you pulled the IAC off and made sure it is not plugged up and is working.
 
My advice is to go buy a vacuum gage and fuel pressure gage and a multimeter. You can borrow the vac and fp gage from parts stores have to pay but get your money back. Buy a Haynes or chiltons manual for an f150 of that year. They include specs on lightnings in the one I have. Read the book. It will tell you how to check about every sensor and how to check fuel pressure and have a decent description of how the eeciv works IE open and closed loop. They also Have schematics and lots of other good info. If the shop you have been taking it to does not even have a scanner to read the codes then don't go back there. There is koeo and koer diagnostics explained in the manual as well. You will figure it out just start from scratch and keep working it.
 
My advice is to go buy a vacuum gage and fuel pressure gage and a multimeter. You can borrow the vac and fp gage from parts stores have to pay but get your money back. Buy a Haynes or chiltons manual for an f150 of that year. They include specs on lightnings in the one I have. Read the book. It will tell you how to check about every sensor and how to check fuel pressure and have a decent description of how the eeciv works IE open and closed loop. They also Have schematics and lots of other good info. If the shop you have been taking it to does not even have a scanner to read the codes then don't go back there. There is koeo and koer diagnostics explained in the manual as well. You will figure it out just start from scratch and keep working it.
Yeah I was thinking of pulling the chip but since my old and new computer threw the same codes. I'm thinking the problem is somewhere else. I had a friend pull the code book for me and 126 is map sensor out of range. I know I have a vacuum component going bad on the backside of the intake haven't identified it yet though but right after shutting the truck off it makes a buzzing noise and you can feel it if you touch the module which may be messing with the map sensor.

Unplugged iac and idle dipped sharply plugged it back in and all was well. So it's working but may need to be cleaned.

A new map sensor is like $30 locally so I'll try that first since I don't have an oscilloscope to test the one that's on the truck Now. If it doesn't work I can return it.

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Well new map sensor fixed it right up it wasn't perfect idle but I know it needs a tuneup so I'm sure that's the issue Now but it's completely driveable Now. Took it to my mechanic for a final safety check on everything I can't see. Thanks everyone for the help.

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Well truck is still running good but it's using some oil and blowing carbon out the tailpipe. I tried to search but it didn't return anything I'm trying to find pcv valve location on this truck. Is there a section someone could point me to with diagrams?

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its hard as hell to access. its in the back of the lower manifold.. I can barely see it using my phone.. I tried lol. hard to reach and feel for it but its there. I try to pretend that its not there
 
its hard as hell to access. its in the back of the lower manifold.. I can barely see it using my phone.. I tried lol. hard to reach and feel for it but its there. I try to pretend that its not there

This is where you learn to execute the GT-40 hug. Toss an old quilt on top of the motor, lay on top of it and wrap your arms around the manifold to reach the PCV valve.


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Easier to just pull the upper intake - that way you can actually see what you're doing and take care of any other 23 yr old issues might be back there
 
Easier to just pull the upper intake - that way you can actually see what you're doing and take care of any other 23 yr old issues might be back there

Agreed. Still need to learn the "Hug" to lift the upper.


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Easier to just pull the upper intake - that way you can actually see what you're doing and take care of any other 23 yr old issues might be back there
Yeah that's my plan I have all new intake gaskets for it and valve cover gaskets and pretty much any gasket I can get to with the motor in the truck. Just waiting on LMR to get my bolt kit too me for the lower intake. If they are anything like my water pump bolts I'll be extracting a few. And of course inspect the spider web of vacuum lines back there.

Question though I've never owned a Windsor before all modulars. Would a bad intake gasket all oil or coolant into the cylinders? I have a fluctuating idle that I assume is a small vacuum leak. And the plugs were dark black when I di my tuneup today with a slight hint of oil. Just wondering if that's a possibility of the intake leaking into the cylinders.

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Found part of my problem this little guy is coated in oil and seeping out of the connector and it's all over the passenger side inner fender. It connects to the charcoal canister then snakes off somewhere under the intake can't really follow it.

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Question though I've never owned a Windsor before all modulars. Would a bad intake gasket all oil or coolant into the cylinders? I have a fluctuating idle that I assume is a small vacuum leak. And the plugs were dark black when I di my tuneup today with a slight hint of oil. Just wondering if that's a possibility of the intake leaking into the cylinders.

Bad lower intake manifold gasket could allow coolant contamination of your oil, or excess carbon from the exhaust channel into your air, but oil or coolant contamination in the cylinders would be a bad head gasket.

Found part of my problem this little guy is coated in oil and seeping out of the connector and it's all over the passenger side inner fender. It connects to the charcoal canister then snakes off somewhere under the intake can't really follow it.

That's the fuel vapor canister purge (CANP) solenoid. It should not be coated in / leaking motor oil unless some rocket scientist has connected it to the crankcase ventilation system, in which case it and probably the vapor canister are toast. It should be connected to the fuel vapor return line, which should be connected to the vacuum purge valve with a black vacuum hose going to it.
 
Bad lower intake manifold gasket could allow coolant contamination of your oil, or excess carbon from the exhaust channel into your air, but oil or coolant contamination in the cylinders would be a bad head gasket.



That's the fuel vapor canister purge (CANP) solenoid. It should not be coated in / leaking motor oil unless some rocket scientist has connected it to the crankcase ventilation system, in which case it and probably the vapor canister are toast. It should be connected to the fuel vapor return line, which should be connected to the vacuum purge valve with a black vacuum hose going to it.
There's no telling looks like someone did valve cover gaskets fairly recently so I'm sure they unhooked everything. Probably put it back together wrong.

Is the OBD1 smart enough to tell on that and set a code?

I'm really not surprised the little town I went to get this thing had only one mechanic and they had serviced this truck both for the dealer and the PO. And they had no clue when it no started. I ended up towing it home because they just kept throwing parts at it. I'm sire this is some of their handy work.

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Is the OBD1 smart enough to tell on that and set a code?

You should definitely pull codes before you go digging, but don't rely on codes alone to tell you if something's not hooked up correctly.


You should have an under-hood decal with a diagram of your vacuum system. That's a good place to start.


Use diagrams to get to know your truck and go over each system and make sure things are connected and routed properly. I've got a bunch uploaded here: http://www.nloc.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=2697


Start with the Lightning-unique diagrams, like these:




And some key non-L-unique diagrams, like these:

 
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You should definitely pull codes before you go digging, but don't rely on codes alone to tell you if something's not hooked up correctly.


You should have an under-hood decal with a diagram of your vacuum system. That's a good place to start.


Use diagrams to get to know your truck and go over each system and make sure things are connected and routed properly. I've got a bunch uploaded here: http://www.nloc.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=2697


Start with the Lightning-unique diagrams, like these:








And some key non-L-unique diagrams, like these:





Awesome thank you. My intake bolts arrived today so I'll probably pull it apart my next off day and check everything out.

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Awesome thank you. My intake bolts arrived today so I'll probably pull it apart my next off day and check everything out.

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OK no codes. But the pcv valve was toast no rsistence in the valve what soever and the line was coated in oil. So I'm praying that's the majority of my oil consumption issues. Unfortunately I had to use an aftermarket valve as it seems no one caries the Ford part any longer. Hopefully I can get to all the gaskets next week but seems better so far. Just gotta see if it keeps burning oil.

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But the pcv valve was toast no rsistence in the valve what soever and the line was coated in oil. So I'm praying that's the majority of my oil consumption issues. Unfortunately I had to use an aftermarket valve as it seems no one caries the Ford part any longer. Hopefully I can get to all the gaskets next week but seems better so far. Just gotta see if it keeps burning oil.

??? Motorcraft PCV #EV-68C is still available lots of places - RockAuto, Amazon, eBay, etc.

No resistance in your PCV? It's not an electrical/electronic device - it's just a one-way vent valve, and it shouldn't be coated in oil if it's in the proper location in the rear of the lower intake manifold. If it's installed properly, with proper vacuum hose routing, and it's getting coated in oil, then you've got a serious blow-by problem with bad piston rings. Compression test will tell you which cylinder(s) are affected.



3/8" hoses (2 x 90-degree bends from Napa), valve (Motorcraft EV-68C), grommet (Napa 6301388), and crankcase filter (Motorcraft FA-1068)
 
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