Braking options to build boost

lightn95

Active member
If the rear tires aren't turning they won't push the fronts through the beams.

Correct. I was agreeing with your post that I quoted. But the only way to stop the rear wheels from turning is a drives shaft brake, that I agreed with also, or a double caliber setup like Jamie mentioned. Drum brakes alo e aren't going to cut it...
 

Raymond_B

Administrator
I Support the NLOC
Like? I mean I use the 2 step to launch off of. I bring timing down to 0-1 degree as well

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It seemed some of those guys had luck changing the timing around to get more boost. Just curious if you’d tried that.
 

oilwell1415

Active member
Correct. I was agreeing with your post that I quoted. But the only way to stop the rear wheels from turning is a drives shaft brake, that I agreed with also, or a double caliber setup like Jamie mentioned. Drum brakes alo e aren't going to cut it...

Gotcha. We bounced back and forth a few times and I thought you were talking about using a line lock on the front only like it's usually done.

I think the drums have more potential for holding power than they get credit for. They have a lot more surface area than discs and that area is all located at the farthest point from the axle centerline that it can be. It's just a matter of getting the force to them. I wonder if an F-250 wheel cylinder would fit? They are 1/8" larger than the F-150 and would instantly give 25-30% more holding power to the rear brakes.
 

slow94

Active member
It seemed some of those guys had luck changing the timing around to get more boost. Just curious if you’d tried that.
Truck does best with least amount of timing. I just can't make it fire after top dead center. Part of the reason I am going CNP. Like I said I pull down to 1 degree of advance

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oilwell1415

Active member
Truck does best with least amount of timing. I just can't make it fire after top dead center. Part of the reason I am going CNP. Like I said I pull down to 1 degree of advance

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Can you retard the timing at the distributor to get it where you want it on the brake and then add it back in the tune for when you aren't on the brake?
 

slow94

Active member
Can you retard the timing at the distributor to get it where you want it on the brake and then add it back in the tune for when you aren't on the brake?
It would really just be lying to the ECU. I could set dizzy at say 10 degrees and tell computer it's at 8 it something. That would let me yank 2 extra degrees out. But hopefully when I get the CNP conversion done I can command whatever I want.

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BlackFlareSide

Paid NLOC Member
I Support the NLOC
I can get to 3k as well but I would like to get to 3500 on stock motor. Got a motor being built that I'm sure will get to 3500+ but that won't be for quite some time. Trying to get into the 1.4x 60' on boost if possible.

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What rpm does the converter flash to when you stomp the go pedal without being on the brakes?
I’m curious to know.
I had a 3600 stall in my c4 but it would flash to 4000 and hold until the transmission caught up to the engine rpms. IIRC I could easily hold it on foot brake up to 3500 or so. And trans brake into high 3000’s
 

slow94

Active member
What rpm does the converter flash to when you stomp the go pedal without being on the brakes?
I’m curious to know.
I had a 3600 stall in my c4 but it would flash to 4000 and hold until the transmission caught up to the engine rpms. IIRC I could easily hold it on foot brake up to 3500 or so. And trans brake into high 3000’s
I would have to check the logs to see what rpm it gets to before I start moving. I can brake stall to 3000 rpm. It is a 3500 stall but it is built for my future motor which will make alot more power.
 

1white1994

Member
you could always use a hydro boost setup off a 94-97 ford f super duty. could use the lines and everything. with some slight modification.
otherwise do a 6r80 and a tranbrake.
 

slow94

Active member
Adding the N2O to mine took care of any boost building.
Yeah I usually leave on a 100 shot. Stays on for less than a second. Been 1.47 to the 60' when I ran 6.53. last time out with new trans I ran 6.59 but didn't use any nitrous. 1.67 60' was the end result... Turtles leave harder than that lol. Next time out I do plan on spraying it again. Would like to break a 6.39 on a stock shortblock.
 

Briansshop

Missing My Lightning!
(y) I can't remember if I went 100 or 150 shot, but either way I was ready to try more. :D I had mine turn off at 8psi boost,same as when the W/M started.

Looks like I'm going non intercooled on my current build, so a good chance it might get a shot of juice also.
 

slow94

Active member
(y) I can't remember if I went 100 or 150 shot, but either way I was ready to try more. :D I had mine turn off at 8psi boost,same as when the W/M started.

Looks like I'm going non intercooled on my current build, so a good chance it might get a shot of juice also.
Nitrous will definitely spool a turbo in a hurry. I'm hoping my new motor getting built will spool my planned turbos better though.
 

slow94

Active member
What’s the new set up and who’s building it? Sorry if I missed it somewhere else.
No you didn't miss it. Wasn't going to do a build thread most likely. I got ZSR building a 427 with all the good stuff. Man o war block, solid Roller cam, hi port 225 heads. Going to do twin 67/66 precision's with it that I will fab. Motor should be done in 6 months or so I'm guessing.
 
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