I am finally working to fix leaky wheel seals and differential seal? 120K miles And it runs like new. Does someone here know where the great picture step by step link is for the differential seal and wheel bearing seal change out? I am well in to it with it up on jack stands but in case I need it.....where is the link please? I did lots of word searches.
And I have a QUESTION PLEASE: I got the right rotor off the rear with 20 rubber hammer whacks.
(Rear brakes are running 60% pad.......at 120K miles. I will be bleeding brakes at least. )
Now the left rotor is not coming off. I hit it quite a bit with a rubber hammer....drenched with sweat. Is there a trick to this? Do I need a metal face hammer. Or Butane torch the rotor a bit? It looks like the drum emergency brake inside the rear rotor has released OK. It seems stuck at the lug or face. So I think the face of the axle end is stuck to the back or the rotor. The lug-studs are snug off-center to the rotor holes. The right side was like that too. There must be a mechanic trick for this? Do I need a bigger hammer? The floor jack too can easily push on the raised part of the rotor. What is the trick please?
Bob
(Love this truck , 2000 owned since new, was expensive.....after cooler changed, and blower pressure went up. Fluids changed is about all, and 1.5 set of tires in 120K miles. $400 wheel alignment and MPG went way up and tires last.)
And I have a QUESTION PLEASE: I got the right rotor off the rear with 20 rubber hammer whacks.
(Rear brakes are running 60% pad.......at 120K miles. I will be bleeding brakes at least. )
Now the left rotor is not coming off. I hit it quite a bit with a rubber hammer....drenched with sweat. Is there a trick to this? Do I need a metal face hammer. Or Butane torch the rotor a bit? It looks like the drum emergency brake inside the rear rotor has released OK. It seems stuck at the lug or face. So I think the face of the axle end is stuck to the back or the rotor. The lug-studs are snug off-center to the rotor holes. The right side was like that too. There must be a mechanic trick for this? Do I need a bigger hammer? The floor jack too can easily push on the raised part of the rotor. What is the trick please?
Bob
(Love this truck , 2000 owned since new, was expensive.....after cooler changed, and blower pressure went up. Fluids changed is about all, and 1.5 set of tires in 120K miles. $400 wheel alignment and MPG went way up and tires last.)
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