E4OD issues/tuning JOG1/maf if needed

J

jbeach3101

New member
I'm gonna be short and sweet hopefully.

I have a nicely built 351 in the truck. 9.5:1, 190cc heads, full exhaust, comp 35-255-5 cam, roller rockers, will have big dogs ported intake soon, 24lb injectors.

Stage 1 E4OD. 2200-2400 stall lockup converter, upgraded clutches, billet sunshell/gear, transgo tugger shift kit, and all new parts.

My issues are this, idle has been good for the most part but will surge on its own randomly, gets worse with AC/defrost on, will stall out when backing into parking spots or lightly touching throttle and releasing (started doing this before the engine build and trans). My BIGGEST issue after the rebuild is that the truck always wants to take off in second gear. Sometimes it'll hesitate from a stop then hit first and take off hard like its supposed to. Downshift feels funny at times, and it'll slip-shift here and there, other times it'll short shift and lock in OD before 40MPH. Those issues will correct after shutting the truck off and restarting, except the feeling like taking off in 2nd.

Truck runs great with no tune for the most part except the idle quirks. AFR's do what they're supposed to. I want to tune it with moates, but i need a good answer on what strategy I can use that'll be very close to JOG1. LHBL1? With what calibration? Or would it be best to go with MAF out of a 5.0 truck? (I have a maf 5.0 truck for parts). Any idea with the trans would be great. I've had the shop look at it 5 times and the trans tests good everytime and the warranty has 20k more miles. Does the tune have like a torque limiter for take off? This combo should just melt tires but the trans is super inconsistent.

Thank you, Joshua
 
I am a little confused is this a 93-95 Lightning? Because that computer was never in a Gen 1 L.
 
Raymond_B said:
I am a little confused is this a 93-95 Lightning? Because that computer was never in a Gen 1 L.
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No. I’ve asked other forums. I just know the lightning thread will be the best place for tuning questions using speed density/maf conversions. And all lightnings use an E4od originally.
 
jbeach3101 said:
No. I’ve asked other forums. I just know the lightning thread will be the best place for tuning questions using speed density/maf conversions. And all lightnings use an E4od originally.
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We can give it a shot, but share the year and the model.
 
Low engine speed tuning is always the stickiest. Light throttle transitions, low RPMs, etc, are very sensitive. What you're feeling is it leaning out due to the thirstier motor, along with small throttle angles making a bigger difference in incoming air than that stock computer expects.

Mass air will make this better, but it still might require some tuning because the meter doesn't respond until after the motor requires fuel. The "accel shot" fuel happens based on change in TPS.
 
FMOS Racing said:
Low engine speed tuning is always the stickiest. Light throttle transitions, low RPMs, etc, are very sensitive. What you're feeling is it leaning out due to the thirstier motor, along with small throttle angles making a bigger difference in incoming air than that stock computer expects.

Mass air will make this better, but it still might require some tuning because the meter doesn't respond until after the motor requires fuel. The "accel shot" fuel happens based on change in TPS.
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I’ve got a ranger with a 302 and fox efi that I’ve been tuning with moates. Looking at the ICY1 bin makes my brain mushy lol I know I can figure it out, I just need to learn it.
 
lol, been there and done that, join the club. im running a jog1

im confused? do you have 24#ers running stock jog1 or is that coming with the intake?

i can tell you if your still running speed density, switching to maf will more than likely not help the low rpm/idle issue. it may run other aspects of the rpm range really well but idle. speed density stock tune needs vacuum.

ive got a ton of aftermarket parts as well but had to go back to a stock cam to make it run on a stock map.

the jog1 can be tuned but i can't remember who tunes them, unless its mentioned above. but its going to require downloading a guessed map, flashing the jog1, driving it and record how it runs...... then send that data back to them so they can fine tune it from there to the best of my knowledge???? but may be wrong. a dyno shop will do it without all that but most dyno shops have no idea how to tap into a speed density, obd1 eec. they can tap into the a9p/l's all day though so you may need to switch to maf if you cant find anyone to tap into it.
 
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JOG1 is EEC-IV Speed Density(SD) Hardware code EFI-SD48B.
Any other SD tune will work. C3P2, KID2, A1C,....

Simplest is to use QuarterHorse, and download A1C from efidynotuning. Any issues, post over there.
You can use BE, but not as well supported currently.

The only thing I dislike about A1C, is that it is older, from early 90s. My KID2 is from 94, and JOG1 may be from 95.

In any event, don't bother swapping to MAF, just tune what you got.
 
I don’t know if you can see it, but what kind of issues will this guy cause? It’s just to the left of the big round thing. Tan with the 4 stripes. Resistor? I know it’s not one of the capacitors.
 

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jetski247 said:
lol, been there and done that, join the club. im running a jog1

im confused? do you have 24#ers running stock jog1 or is that coming with the intake?

i can tell you if your still running speed density, switching to maf will more than likely not help the low rpm/idle issue. it may run other aspects of the rpm range really well but idle. speed density stock tune needs vacuum.

ive got a ton of aftermarket parts as well but had to go back to a stock cam to make it run on a stock map.

the jog1 can be tuned but i can't remember who tunes them, unless its mentioned above. but its going to require downloading a guessed map, flashing the jog1, driving it and record how it runs...... then send that data back to them so they can fine tune it from there to the best of my knowledge???? but may be wrong. a dyno shop will do it without all that but most dyno shops have no idea how to tap into a speed density, obd1 eec. they can tap into the a9p/l's all day though so you may need to switch to maf if you cant find anyone to tap into it.
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Yeah I took a shot in the dark and have ran 24lb injectors with stock fuel pressure for 10k miles. Ran lean with 19’s so I threw in the 24’s from like an 04 cobra so they’re ev6. Idles at stoich all day and will tip lean slightly on tip in but it’s good other than that. (Probably why it’ll stall out sometimes moving trailers around). Hits 11.8-12.2 when WOT pulling a trailer. It’s just the taking off in second that’s really pulling my hair out.
 
wwhite said:
JOG1 is EEC-IV Speed Density(SD) Hardware code EFI-SD48B.
Any other SD tune will work. C3P2, KID2, A1C,....

Simplest is to use QuarterHorse, and download A1C from efidynotuning. Any issues, post over there.
You can use BE, but not as well supported currently.

The only thing I dislike about A1C, is that it is older, from early 90s. My KID2 is from 94, and JOG1 may be from 95.

In any event, don't bother swapping to MAF, just tune what you got.
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JOG1 is 95. Just need to find a good tuner that likes the SD and can help point me in the right direction for tackling it. And what catch code to start with. I would like to get good at tuning both SD and MAF.
 
jbeach3101 said:
I don’t know if you can see it, but what kind of issues will this guy cause? It’s just to the left of the big round thing. Tan with the 4 stripes. Resistor? I know it’s not one of the capacitors.
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It's a resistor and that corrosion in itself probably isn't an issue. The question is, where did it come from?
 
time to learn how to quarterhorse for me too. ive got a bunch of maf ecms im getting rid of now since i think sd is simpler but the maf is more precise being twin o2's and sefi instead of bank but bank runs SC's very well.
 
FMOS Racing said:
It's a resistor and that corrosion in itself probably isn't an issue. The question is, where did it come from?
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Looks like one end of that resistor goes to the outside edge, under a transistor mounted to the case. Those transistors are for operating the injectors and the solenoids in the trans.
Take a volt OHM meter, measure the resistance across that resistor. If its Red, Black Red, should be 2K ohms, if Orange Black Red, should be 3K ohms. That transistor if I'm correct, is connected to PIN #19, and is for the Shift Solenoid #2 (E40D), maybe.
I would have thought a code would be set for that.
 
jetski247 said:
time to learn how to quarterhorse for me too. ive got a bunch of maf ecms im getting rid of now since i think sd is simpler but the maf is more precise being twin o2's and sefi instead of bank but bank runs SC's very well.
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Download TunerProRT, free software developed and being developed by a Microsoft Developer I believe.
Download tune files from efidynotuning downloads page, and start learning. It is a large learning curve.
 
I thought making my own shift maps with my baumanator was complicated.......luckily i have 1 ton axles with huge u joints cuz my first test runs with the transgo shift kit and a wrong map, broke my passanger side leaf pack in half!!! I don't know how I didn't break anything else but that sterling 10.5" must be a beast.
i bet this is even worse to learn

i downloaded the software and the ahac2 file, doesn't look too bad but def a ton to learn
don't i still need quarterhorse and a cable?
sorry for hijacking
 
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jetski247 said:
i downloaded the software and the ahac2 file, doesn't look too bad but def a ton to learn
don't i still need quarterhorse and a cable?
sorry for hijacking
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Correct, you need the hardware, QH piggy backs onto any EEC-IV or EEC-V with a J3 port.
Downloading the software gives you an idea of what is involved.
 
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