6.0 Procharged Denali Truck Begging to Race

I have almost a grand in tires easy, $8XX and change.

Filter needs a cold air box right? couple H's there.

What kind of tune we talkin? Something off the internet? Or a test and tune with several pulls on a dyno.

You can blow a wad and not even try. Plus there is the burn of claimed increase of HP and "real world" HP.

You really can't see a couple grand in your motor already? Hell I only had this L a week and blew $2000, tires, brakes, full fuilds flush to synthetic, full tune, and three trips to the dyno, for marked improvments, not to mention my Mechanic.
You all may have time to burn turning your wrenches, I have to work for my money, so someone else has to.


Again the point I was trying to get across, is we have no clue what the truck will do as is, and last I checked, money ain't free. So instaed of throwing money at it, just race it, and see. There is no shame in a loss, and it makes it dam sweeter when you correct/overcome the issue for the win.

:headscratch:......:gl:
 
I have almost a grand in tires easy, $8XX and change.

Filter needs a cold air box right? couple H's there.

What kind of tune we talkin? Something off the internet? Or a test and tune with several pulls on a dyno.

You can blow a wad and not even try. Plus there is the burn of claimed increase of HP and "real world" HP.

You really can't see a couple grand in your motor already? Hell I only had this L a week and blew $2000, tires, brakes, full fuilds flush to synthetic, full tune, and three trips to the dyno, for marked improvments, not to mention my Mechanic.
You all may have time to burn turning your wrenches, I have to work for my money, so someone else has to.


Again the point I was trying to get across, is we have no clue what the truck will do as is, and last I checked, money ain't free. So instaed of throwing money at it, just race it, and see. There is no shame in a loss, and it makes it dam sweeter when you correct/overcome the issue for the win.

I've got way more than a couple grand in mine now LOL.

You're not going to magically go from a 13 second truck to a 12 second truck. It's either going to take a lot of weight reduction or more power. I don't see the point in complaining about the cost it takes to put these trucks into the 12's. It's a LOT cheaper than 90% of other vehicles.

Maybe he should just race the guy. However a Procharged, cammed, bolt on Denali is no joke. He might get lucky and win, but I doubt it.
 
Double posting and I'm the internet noob?


You really think I don't know people have messed with their tranny to get speed.

I don't need some sad, easily "annoyed" faceless Internet dork telling me what I already know, I know from "MY" experience what has worked for "ME", and got the results with little to no money. I to have a pulley, and a filter, cold air box and all the crap you have, and what has gotten my biggest reduction in ET's was tranny work. Tossing money at the problem makes you an ***, not an innovator. I see what others have done, and it's done to death, I'm trying another way. Sorry if that does not make me a member of the boys club, with you as an example I don't wanna be. You do it your way, I'll do it mine.
 
I to have a pulley, and a filter, cold air box and all the crap you have, and what has gotten my biggest reduction in ET's was tranny work. Tossing money at the problem makes you an ***, not an innovator.

If your tranny adjustments gained better et's than a pulley you sir are a tranny GOD!!!!!!!!!!I say Bull shiizziit but what ever .I like to put the competition outta their misery and be done w/it .My biggest gains where 1 pulley with a tune.A valve body didn't do much.OP just run him as is if you want you may lose.I would 4or 6# pulley it with a tune from JJ WMS imo and this will knock off half-1 second in the 1/4.As for you stloa i'd tune it down some just cuz somone rubs you wrong they may ne the same peeps you need help from someday.And bein new and raisin hell doesn't work out real good sometimes.Really man i'm skeptical myself if you could do any better than a tenth changin shift points.But i've just been racin my truck since 02 so what do i know lol.
 
Last edited:
I believe I am being way misrepesented, I am talking about elongating the first gear shift out before second is engaged (getting the most from each gear) I would assume we all can agree STOCK shifting is anything, but ideal for racing. If you get out of the hole, a stock shift point will out at what seems to me as an inopportune time to gain headway. Seeing as the powerband on the "L" is higher, you get to stay in it longer making up more ground. It is my first goto for tuning, hitting the powerband longer, and making it work for me.

I am in NO way saying changing the shift points is the end all be all answer for power, and I have no idea how that came acrossed as such.

What I do know is I could not beat the local Mustang GT till I changed to a longer first, stop light to stop light he ate me off the line and worked away from there. Once I got what worked for ME, I am having no issues with him any longer, and I race himn everyday on the way to work.


As far as help from this board all I have heard from day one is dump money into the motor, no one has spoken about ways to get the most out of what I have, and or will do in the future. If the best advise to get from you guys is dump in more, and accept the trucks short comings, message recivied.
 
No problems as far as running your truck to 5200 for each gear i agree.It's just that most of the time we are talking about runnin with Vettes and stuff like that.We can and do put a hurtin on them some of the time but once our little eatons and our weigt catch up lookout.Our powerbands are short lived and begin to fall off when your gettin to the red. And when those cars begin to get their rpms up here they come.By that time our eatons are done around 80-100 mph.thats why i have a whipple sittin next to me in the box waitin for install :cool:LOL.I think we're all just sayin for under a grand to drop almost 1 sec in the 1/4 is badarse for a 4700lb ride and why not doit if you can .I haven't lost a street race yet .Not sayin it's not goin to happen but hey i'll tow em home if they blow up beatin me lol.
 
Last edited:
With my 99L, a chip and 5# pulley and slicks got me from ~325 RWHP to 408 RWHP (at a cost of ~$1,000) and 14.0 ET to 12.8 (slicks). Changing shift points from 5300 rpm to 5800 for 1-2 shift and 5700 for 2-3 was worth only 0.1 of that total ET improvement. The 03 would see less total gain since the stock tune is much more agressive than the 99-00 stock tune, 14.0 is normal for 99 & 00, believe 13.4 - 13.6 is about normal for 03-04.

I say run as is, it will not be your 1st or last race to win or lose. You can always go again later. I do not subscribe to only running races I know I can win, my ego while sizable LOL, is not that tender. Getting beat inspires you to spend money and do better. LOL
 
Last edited:
. . . Sorry if that does not make me a member of the boys club, with you as an example I don't wanna be. You do it your way, I'll do it mine.

Dude, you don't even know me, and you're already calling me a "dork," and claiming that everyone here doesn't know what they are doing. Not a winning strategy for making friends.

Why don't you go do it your way somewhere else -- where the people are smart enough to understand your true genius.
 
True. Thats all I am saying the increase in shift points allows the powerband to be reached and maximised, for me, I am not a drag racer, I consider myself a stoplight shooter, where wins are little more than persoanl victories to be ahead of the last stop light victim. I did not see where the guy with the"L" said they would go to track for the fight, I assumed (and could be wrong) that this would all play out on the street.

While you may not agree but for me street fighting is a new beast from drags. All sorts of things come to play, for me in the short run, I need a taller first and a long powerband, to give me the edge before appling the brakes before the next stop light.

For this type of racing the "L" so far has been prefectly suited. Mine locks up quick and rarely do I get caught in a long smoky burn of wasted HP and tires.

Which I would assume is what you will get if you go harder with more power, there is a fine line to walk for a light a$$ed truck to stay competive and not look like a teenaged geek burning off the tires at every light. If you can not get the power you make to the wheels to hook, what the point?

We all know how to get power, thats the easy (and can be costly) part, what I am here to learn is the absolute best ways to get what I make to the ground where it belongs.


From what I gather you all get 14's from your stock "L", yet I see this, and hear other say this..... 2002 Ford F150 Lightning 1/4 mile Drag Racing timeslip specs 0-60 - DragTimes.com, Please note the stock in most all of the columns.

If I can get that number, I can get high, high 12's, I have no doubt, and my point will be proven. If I have to start with 14's, then I will have alot more work to do. We shall see on Friday, Midnight maddness @ Gateway International.
 
Double posting and I'm the internet noob?


You really think I don't know people have messed with their tranny to get speed.

I don't need some sad, easily "annoyed" faceless Internet dork telling me what I already know, I know from "MY" experience what has worked for "ME", and got the results with little to no money. I to have a pulley, and a filter, cold air box and all the crap you have, and what has gotten my biggest reduction in ET's was tranny work. Tossing money at the problem makes you an ***, not an innovator. I see what others have done, and it's done to death, I'm trying another way. Sorry if that does not make me a member of the boys club, with you as an example I don't wanna be. You do it your way, I'll do it mine.

Guess you haven't lurked much before joining to know who to pick your battles with :rofl:

If you only street race, how do you have measureable data to know that the shift points gave you your biggest ET improvement? :?

Typically when guys add a pulley & programmer, shift points are addressed, and one of those things that are so trivial that its rarely even mentioned to think about since its handled when the truck is tuned. And rather than waste the money for a tune on the stock pullies just to adjust shift points, then a retune later to add a pulley, its much more worth the bang for the buck to just do the pulley with the tune all at once.

Since to change the shift points you still need to buy a $400-500 programmer anyway, whats another $150 for a pulley & belt, and another $20 in a set of plugs :screwy: Far cry from dropping a few thousand into the motor.
 
i dont see how shift points would make any difference, peak torque and horsepower are well before the redline. Not only that but it would also heat-soak the motor more to keep it spinning hard with boost? Plain and simple,
the best bang for the buck is 4lb and a GOOD tune. 6lb even better but need supporting mods. along with a intake, why not.. Your looking at about $700 with a programmer. a 6.0 s/c is no joke and whether or not you could beat him stock, you'll want more power. I wouldn't raise the redline, or WOT shift points because the stock valvetrain is garbage. (debatable but im not too impressed with it)
 
Dude, you don't even know me, and you're already calling me a "dork," and claiming that everyone here doesn't know what they are doing. Not a winning strategy for making friends.

Why don't you go do it your way somewhere else -- where the people are smart enough to understand your true genius.

Tim you have to admit that your personal photo in your avatar tends to seem a little dorky.Not you just the outfit you where wearing when the pic was taken.:gl::eek:ldtu::thumbup:Now back to the tech stuff i know how it drives you crazy goin off topic.lol
 
Last edited:
With my 99L, a chip and 5# pulley and slicks got me from ~325 RWHP to 408 RWHP (at a cost of ~$1,000) and 14.0 ET to 12.8 (slicks). Changing shift points from 5300 rpm to 5800 for 1-2 shift and 5700 for 2-3 was worth only 0.1 of that total ET improvement. The 03 would see less total gain since the stock tune is much more agressive than the 99-00 stock tune, 14.0 is normal for 99 & 00, believe 13.4 - 13.6 is about normal for 03-04.

I say run as is, it will not be your 1st or last race to win or lose. You can always go again later. I do not subscribe to only running races I know I can win, my ego while sizable LOL, is not that tender. Getting beat inspires you to spend money and do better. LOL

i'm sure we have different tuners but man 5700 WOW boom is the 1st thing that comes to mind.But i agree it's not worth much.All my tunes which 3 different tuners and about 12 tunes the highest ive ever ran was 5300.But like i said before the lung in the eaton has deflated by that point unless the motor is built imo.Plus i believe sloa the op has an 03 which has 3:73 instaed of 3:55's which also helped the 01+'s L
 
For what he got done the guy paid 6K too much. He deserves to win for being so stupid! He spent that much money and wants to run stock L's, I'd be FLATTERED. Race him and see who's faster, what's the big deal?
 
. . . As far as help from this board all I have heard from day one is dump money into the motor, no one has spoken about ways to get the most out of what I have, and or will do in the future. . . .

Read more. Post less.

yapyapyap.gif
 
If you cant find what your looking for on this website, you don't belong around lightnings, write that down* You want the most bang for no buck? get rid of spare wheel, move battery to the bed delete a/c get it tuned run higher octane gas theres all sort of freebie mods you can find on this site if you look. The thing is its so easy to squeeze more power out of the motor for cheap, why not?
 
Local guy has a new Denali AWD Crew Cab Pickup 6.0 Liter. He spent 11k on; a procharger, had a local shop install a cam and valve springs, headers with stock exhaust, 4.10 gears and had it tuned and shift points changed. He's been begging me for a couple of months to race. I have an 03 L that I haven't turned a wrench on yet. I'm just curious on you guys thoughts on my chances. He swears he'll take me with no problems.


Mickey

Back to the original posters question.Give him a try stall up to about 1100 rpm's then roll onto it.Goodluck and let us know how it goes.Sorry for your thread goin to crap like some people always complain about around here.Looks like we're all guilty sometimes huh?:nono:
 
Back
Top