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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Vrrooooooooooom Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 12,398
View this user's gallery iTrader: 3 / 100% | You could just use a proportioning valve. |
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| Registered User | What about building boost in 2nd gear... then shifting to D when you take off??? Think I read about that technique on this forum a long time ago. Tried it on the street and it seems to work (after I raised the failed speed sensor rpm that is). Built more boost than I could before anyway. Is it bad for the trans? Any worse than trying to stall in 1st or downshifting?? |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| always bet on black | but doesn't a prop valve work by reducing pressure to the rears to balance out the system? if so then you are reducing your holding power by reducing pressure, so you would want full pressure to the rears for launch, then you would have to have your prop valve adjustable from the driver's seat and be sure to switch it before you get on the brakes at the end of the strip so the rears don't lock up first. |
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| Vrrooooooooooom Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 12,398
View this user's gallery iTrader: 3 / 100% | Well, I think if the rears were locking up badly that you'd be over-proportioned to the rear. I'd run a different proportion on the street than I would at the strip, but it wouldn't be THAT dramatically favored towards the rear at the strip. Or you could pretend you were driving a real drag car since a lot of them only have rear brakes anyway. ![]() I tried the "build boost in second and then pull it to first" method and it didn't gain me anything. Could stall it higher, but the moment I pulled it to first, it would just start to rotate the tires. |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| Registered User | Think the idea is to put it into drive (not first) right at the moment you take off. You want to keep it out of first gear while on the brakes and trying to build boost. Found the thread where I read about it, looks like May '07. Launching tech. |
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| | #21 (permalink) |
| Vrrooooooooooom Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 12,398
View this user's gallery iTrader: 3 / 100% | I suppose you could do the same thing by pulling to first - which I'd have to do since I manually shift. I guess I never realized people were shifting at the light. I definitely wouldn't've tried that with my faster truck. Just too much going on at the light to add shifting to it. May have to try it in the slower one. |
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| | #22 (permalink) |
| Merchant Mariner Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Somewhere, Indiana
Posts: 1,626
View this user's gallery iTrader: 1 / 100% | Looks like a cool setup. Do you have any pics of how the hotside runs up to the turbo inlet? I have to get my stuff refabbed so a reroute might help. Pics would help best. As for the ebrake thing, Gen 2s have another set of brake shoes for the ebrake that the Gen 1s don't, thats what FMOS was talking about. The technique I was using worked like this. I had a front line lock so during the burnout I would use it to hold the truck still and then put a little pressure to drag the back brakes a little. This would put some heat in these pads so they would grab a little better. Next I would roll up to the 1st beam, stop and set the parking brake HARD. Then I would move my feet to the regular gas and brake pedals, putting light pressure on the brake and giving enough gas to get close to my stall speed (2400 RPM). Let the other guy get all the way staged at this point so you have control of when the lights come down. Put your hand on the ebrake release lever at this point. Holding light brake pressure bring the rpms up until the truck lurches forward into the 2nd beam. You will get a feel of how much brake and gas to use to get just the right amout of movement. Once you are in the 2nd beam STAND on the brake and bring the RPMs up to just below where the truck will roll forward. When the lights come down mat the gas and release the brakes and away you go. Doing this helped my cut my 60's by a 10th or so. I really needed a higher stall for my combo. I never fiddled with the shifting and such.
__________________ 2001 Silver Lightning, Stock Engine Turbo in the works 2000 Black Turbo Lightning RIP. SCT Pro Racer Tuned, Stock Engine 540 hp/580 tq - 16psi, Pump Gas, Open DP 11.68 @ 120 |
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| Registered User | Thanks. These are the only shots I have of the hot piping in the truck and another of pic of it outside the truck... between the three should get a pretty good idea of how it's routed I hope. ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks for the ebrake technique info! Can't wait to try it out .Last edited by 69Roadster; 03-10-2009 at 05:15 PM.. |
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| | #25 (permalink) |
| Registered User | Thanks bud .Don't have a pic of the piping on the truck handy but you can get a good idea of what I did from this pic showing all the cold side. Used the two pieces on the right... top piece connects to the turbo and feeds down to the other, then a 180 to the IC. Note the bottom piece isn't tacked together yet, one side should be angled up to meet the piece going to the turbo. ![]() I ended up putting my BOV on the piece right below the turbo... if anyone was curious ![]()
__________________ -Donny turbo white Lightning |
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| | #28 (permalink) |
| Registered User | Forgot to update the thread from where I went to the track a few months ago. Upped the boost to ~17 psi and gave it 20 deg timing (race gas mix). Ran a 7.21 @ 100.6 mph w/ a 1.78 sixty foot in the ⅛. Full weight minus hitch, 30" slicks, and still not building boost on the line. Need to try those launch techniques out LOL. I was pretty happy with the 100 mph though
__________________ -Donny turbo white Lightning |
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| | #30 (permalink) |
| always bet on black | that's what i'm thinking. i have a single 6", but plan to make a new one that is dual 4" polished SS ![]()
__________________ 03 black turbo lightning - holset hx60 powered "And another thing.....when I gun the motor, I want the whole world to think it's coming to an end" -Homer Simpson |
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