Lakewood Slappers, How To:

Dash808 · 09-10-2009, 06:32 PM

Lakewood Traction Bars from Summit. Part # 21715

This is what comes in the box:
(2) bars,
(2) snubbers
(8) bolts & nuts (Grade 5)
(4) 1/4" shims
(4) 1/8" shims
(1) Crappy set of instructions

1. Jack up the rear with the jack placed under the rear diff.

2. To make life easier, take off the wheels

3. Place jackstands under the axle next to the shock mounts

4. If you are lowered, you will need more shims than what it comes with. If you are not, some people say what is supplied is enough, some don't.
I have the Hotchkis TVS so I needed (6) 1/4" shims per side to make it work.

5. Flat stock iron is available at Lowe's, HD, hardware store... Look for the 2" wide X 1/4" thick. Comes in 3' lengths.

6. Basically you are trying to fill up a 2 1/2" gap. Cutting with a jig saw and a couple metal cutting bits works fine.

7. Using the supplied shims as a template, mark the center of the hole with a punch.

8. Drill the holes out with a good metal drill bit. A drill press works nicely. Make the hole slightly larger than the original size holes so you won't have trouble stacking multiple shims together.

7. If you are lowered then you will also need 4 longer bolts. Pick these up while you are at the store. I went ahead and upgraded to Grade 8 bolts & nuts all the way around. Take a supplied bolt with you and get 4 similar length bolts and 4 longer bolts (About 2" longer).

8. Position the Slapper so the rear bracket is close to the brake line, but NOT touching it. The snubber should be located directly under the front leaf spring eye.

9. Leave about a 1/2" gap between the snubber and spring eye. Depending on your preference increase or decrease gap as necessary.

10. Center the Slapper bracket on the leaf spring while tightening and make sure the Slapper is parallel to the leafs. Keeping the brackets centered is important.

I'm running the TVS, stock shackles, and slappers with a 1/2" gap and the ride is pretty darn good. Not bouncy at all.
Also note, I have a Borla Catback with no clearance issues.
Can't beat these for $100. Good mod!

This concludes the Lakewood Slappers How to!!

Dash808 · 09-10-2009, 06:37 PM

cont:

Zak Attack · 09-11-2009, 12:13 AM

Wow excellent write up. I upgraded to Grade 8 bolts when mine came in.

Dash808 · 09-11-2009, 12:19 AM

Thanks.

I'm not positive it's necessary, but I upgraded the bolts too. About $20 for Grade 8 hardware.

aemlude · 09-11-2009, 10:14 PM

Maybe it is just me. But did your top plate start to want to bend before it felt like the bolts were tight?

Dash808 · 09-12-2009, 07:12 AM

I believe Lakewood recommended around 40-50lbs of torque. Mine started to bend slightly too but I know I had more then 50 lbs on them.

If I were doing it over I might have doubled up the plates on top.

09-11-2009, 12:13 AM	#3 (permalink)
Zak Attack Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Little Rock, AR Posts: 1,040 View this user's gallery iTrader: 1 / 100%	Wow excellent write up. I upgraded to Grade 8 bolts when mine came in. __________________

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09-11-2009, 12:19 AM	#4 (permalink)
Dash808 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Waipio, Hawaii Posts: 182 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Thanks. I'm not positive it's necessary, but I upgraded the bolts too. About $20 for Grade 8 hardware.

09-11-2009, 10:14 PM	#5 (permalink)
aemlude Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 12 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Maybe it is just me. But did your top plate start to want to bend before it felt like the bolts were tight?