e9tac

Thanks to FastazzL (AJ) for making taking the time to write this up .
Well, just for the hell of it, I decided to do this tonight because I had all the stuff just sitting in my garage. Here is how I did it.

Here is the back of the fog light switch



Red = Power when headlights are on
Yellow = Power when switch is on
Black = Ground

Here is the back of the headlight switch



The only ones that I paid attention to were:
White w/ Blue line = Power when parking lights are on
Black w/ orange = Constant power

Now, when I did mine, I decided to use a relay because I wanted the lights to be able to turn on with the fog lights were on, but also turn off when the headlight switch was off all the way (I would kill my battery so fast if I didn't have that buzzer).

So, using the relay, I spliced into constant power and the wire that was hot when the parking lights turning on (these were on the headlight switch), and the wire that was hot when the headlights were on and the ground (these were on the back of the fog light switch). Here are the pictures of the back of the two switches after the splicing:





Notice on the back of the fog light switch, instead of just splicing into the wire, I capped off the end coming from behind the dash and just hooked up the wire coming from the relay to the back of the switch. If you just splice into it, the headlights will turn on when you turn on the fog lights. That was it. Now when I turn on my parking lights, I have the option to also turn on my fog lights and when the switch is all the way off, my fog lights are off no matter what position the fog light switch is in.

And last but not least, don't do this with out the proper supervision.



AJ


BTW, I know I could have done this without the relay but I'm a relay hore. I always use them when messing with switches.

e9tac

This info was contributed by Skritch (Scott):

This will allow you to run the foglights with just the park lights on and still have a functioning foglight switch. They also stay on when you use high beams.

Splice a 16g wire into the brown wire that is in the center row of the headlight harness. Run the wire through the dash to the fog light switch. Cut the red wire with a black tracer on the foglight switch. Secure the loose end with a wire nut, tape, etc, because it will still have power running through it when the headlights are on. Attach the jumper wire you ran to the red/black tracer wire coming from the foglight switch. If you attached the jumper to the wrong end of the red/black tracer wire or used a quick splice, it will back feed through the red/black wire and power the head lights.

The 2nd way is...

The red/black wire from the foglight switch is hot when the headlights are on low beam. That's why the fogs only work if you have the headlights on low beam. Cut the red/black wire from the foglight switch then splice a wire (with inline fuse) to the end coming off the foglight switch. Feed that spliced wire over to the fuse box and plug it in to a terminal that's hot only when the key is on. Tape off the end of the red/black wire that you cut and secure it out of the way. Now you have power to the foglight switch any time the truck is "on" and can operate the foglights completely independent of the head/park lights.

Scott