ZZZZAP

So how do you delete your PCV for $30 or less? That's what I'm going to tell you since that is what I just did. I had several reasons for the delete:
1.) Like every other GenII L owner, I got tired of oil in my intake and covering the intercooler.
2.) I didn't want the added maintanence of a catch can style setup.
3.) Even though the L&S works I didn't like the look or the price of the kit.
Since all that is involved in the delete is mainly the removal of a couple hoses and the use of some vacuum caps I decided to tackle it myself with the help of CHIZ's PCV delete on SVTPerformance.com. My goal was to do the delete as cheaply as possible while using whatever I could from the stock setup. Here's the list of parts I used and a ballpark price I paid for each.

1. 1/2" x 1/2" brass barb plumbing coupling from Lowes. 60¢ +/-
2. 3/4" x 1/2" brass barb plumbing coupling from Lowes. 95¢ +/-
3. 2 APC breathers from Advance Auto Parts each $9 +/-
4. vacuum cap assortment from Advance Auto Parts $3
5. Permatex 5-minute Epoxy $4.50 +/-




First disconnect the negative battery cable.
I started on the passenger side by first removing the PCV hose from the upper plenum.


Next I removed the hose and check valve on the passenger valve cover together.


Lastly I disconnected the "assembly" from the hose running down to the lower intake and then capped that hose with a 3/8" vacuum cap.

__________________

"Chuck Norris built my shortblock. It runs on the tears of small children and makes 10,000 hp. He said it's his 'street version' "

ZZZZAP

Now comes the reuse of some parts from the stock setup.
With the line to the lower intake capped I then took the check valve and the 90° elbow and removed them from the PCV tubing. Once removed, I used the 3/4"x1/2" coupling and inserted the 1/2" side into the elbow.


Next I clamped on the first APC breather onto the 3/4" side and inserted the check valve back into the valve cover.




To finish up the passenger side I next took off the "boot", that was previously connected to the upper plenum, from the PCV tubing.


Since I could not for the life of me find a vacuum cap large enough to plug the vacuum port on the plenum I simply plugged the hole with a 1/4" vacuum cap and sealed it with some 5-minute epoxy. I then reinstalled the "boot" onto the plenum vacuum port.




Voila! The passenger side is complete! Now onto the drivers side....

ZZZZAP

Onto the drivers side. Some of the steps may not be applicable to all the aftermarket intakes on the market, but the end result should be the same. I have a JLT intake if anyone is wondering.

Firstly, disconnect the tube running from your intake to the drivers side valve cover.


The only part I reused from the drivers side was the 90° elbow. I simply used the 3/4" x 3/4" coupling and inserted it into the elbow.


Next I clamped the other APC breather onto the 3/4" coupling and reinstalled the elbow onto the valve cover.




The only step left is to plug the port that was previously being used by the PCV system on your intake setup. Personally my JLT had a plastic 90° fitting which I simply plugged with a 5/16" vacuum cap and sealed with epoxy. I felt this last step would most likely be better addressed on a case by case basis depending on what intake setup you are running. The end goal is simply to plug the hole where the PCV system was previously installed on your intake.

CONGRATULATIONS! You have just deleted your PCV system and can now enjoy an oil free intake and intercooler!! After a couple WOT blasts and some miles on the road I have no SES codes and the truck runs great. If the breathers get dirty then I may replace them with some K&N pieces since I can at least clean the elements, but the APC breathers were cheap and readily available.

DallasGT01

nice write up... idk about the filters just hanging there really...

bumps would make it bounce... can you not cut and make it strait up and down vs laying on its side???

__________________
NO SIG...

ZZZZAP

That's a good suggestion, I'll take a look at it and see. I'm pretty sure you could though.

DJ2003

well i know what the pros of doing this is no oil, but is there any cons?

SWThomas

Smelling oil every now and then but that's about it.

ZZZZAP

So far the filters being at 90º aren't affected by any bouncing. Surprisingly the passenger side filter is clean as a whistle so far but the drivers side is getting dirty. I'm not sure what that is due to, I'll have to see if an EGR delete makes any difference. I've also got the dreaded head gasket oil leak as well. I've done a few WOT blasts recently and the only time I've smelled oil is for a split second when cruising and sometimes briefly upon shutdown. Seems like my $30 was money well spent!

proxrsledhead

May have an explanation ...You still have your PCV check valve in the passenger side... so when you do get positive crank pressure, the oil droplets could be blown against the checkball/piece and is built up and drips back down into the valve cover?

That or the checkball is heavy enough to make only the passenger side vent the nasty stuff out =P

BoosT_AddicT

Thread revival... I did this today and it came out great. Thanks for the DIY! This was much easier than hunting for parts not local for the other DIY's I've seen.

autenb

What about the one in the bottom of the lower intake?

ZZZZAP

Are you referring to the passenger side where it is plumbed into the upper plenum/valve cover and down to the lower intake? If so then that was capped with a 3/8" vacuum cap. See picture #4 in the first post.

__________________

"Chuck Norris built my shortblock. It runs on the tears of small children and makes 10,000 hp. He said it's his 'street version' "

donna548

I think that's a good suggestion, I'll take a look at it and see. I'm pretty sure you could though.

__________________
Signal Mirror

BigD

Delete Spam

Sammy

When I bought my L it had this mod done, the oil smell is horriable!

I am going to install a oil catch can and rerun the PCV line back into the intake, I can't stand the oil smell anymore.