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| | #1 (permalink) |
| El Cazador Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Port Royal, SC
Posts: 10,724
View this user's gallery iTrader: 27 / 100% | HOW-TO: QA1 Front Shocks I just got done installing the QA1 front shocks on my L. It was a pretty painless process. The shocks I installed are for stock front suspension Lightnings. The part # is TC1540P. Here's how I installed them... First thing is to remove the wheel/tire for the side you're going to work on. I jacked up the side I was working on with the stock jack in the stock jacking location. I used jack-stands on either side of the lower control arms also. This proved to be useful and will be discussed later... ![]() ![]() Then locate the mounting location for the top of the stock shock... ![]() Then un-clip this plastic clamp and pull out the line. Then unscrew the clamp until it comes off and set it aside... ![]() ![]() Next you want to use a 13/16" open ended wrench for the bottom nut and a 13/16" deep socket on the top nut. I started off with the tools in the pic, but I switched to using a crecent wrench on the bottom nut and a deep socket on the top because I don't have a 13/16" open ended wrench... ![]() ![]() Once you have removed the top nut/washer/bushing assembly, go ahead and use a 1/2" socket and remove the two nuts from the lower mounting location. These nuts are on studs that stay attached to the lower control arm... ![]() Then the stock shock will slide right out the hole in the bottom of the lower control arm. Next you want to set-up the QA1 to be installed through the hole in the bottom of the lower control arm. Install one of the supplied large washers and one of the supplied bushings (with the nipple facing up). Looks like this... ![]() Then go ahead and slide the QA1 up through the hole in the bottom of the lower control arm. Ensure you have the nuts handy and install the bar on the bottom of the shock onto the two studs on the lower control arm. These are the same two studs that the stock shocks were attached to. Make sure that you install the QA1 with the adjustment knob facing the engine. I had to raise and lower the jack a little until I got the lower control arm in the right position to allow the shock bar to go on the studs. That's where the jack stands proved to be useful. Once the bar slides onto the studs, immediately install the nuts to hold the shock in place... ![]() ![]() Once you have the nuts installed in the studs, move to the top. Install the other supplied bushing with the nipple facing down and follow it with the other washer. Then install the larger of the two nuts that come with the shock. Ensure that the nipples of the two bushings are facing each other and are in the hole in the upper shock mount where the shaft goes through. Then tighten down the nut until the bushing bulges out a little bit past flush with the washer. Then install the smaller nut on top of the larger nut to lock the nuts in place (double nutting). It should look like this... ![]() The plastic line clamp will not screw back onto the top of the shock because it's smaller than the stock one. I just placed it on top and tie-wrapped it nice and tight... ![]() Repeat the same procedures for the other side and you're done. I decided to start with three clicks on the shocks to see how that feels and adjust from there.
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| lurch | QA-1 Shocks I just Installed a set on a 04 Lightning and the bottom support rod had two snap rings to keep them from walking from side to side if they were not installed you could mome the shock where the bottom bushing will hit and destroy it and the shock, Also the top bushings that are for the top will fall through the stock holes. I also had to press the bushinh's that came in the shocks and press the new one's in or the lower support bracket wouldn't fit. Did I recive a set of universal shocks. In the instruction's it even sait to use old hardware???? |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| 600 HP Club! Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Fayetteville,NC
Posts: 2,191
View this user's gallery iTrader: 4 / 100% | I'm still to this day having problems installing my front QA1 shocks. They will not fit on the bottom 2 studs for chit!
__________________ ![]() *Built and Tuned by Arthur Todd in Conway,SC* Street Tune: 621HP/650RWTQ at 16psi 14* timing 93oct. Fuel with 6lb lower/3.5" upper Kenne Bell 2.6L AVT Built Motor with Manley Rods, Manley Pistons and all ARP Hardware, JLP Stage II CNC Ported Heads, Stage II Comp Cams, Custom Air Box and 4" Intake Tube, SCT BA2400, JLP/Bassani Competition R 3" Exhaust, JDM Electric Fan Kit, JLP Powercooler, AFCO Heat Exchanger, Walbro fuel pumps, 60# Injectors, FTVB, F-250 Super Duty Transmission Cooler, JLP Traction Bars, QA1's all around, So-Cal shock extenders, Nitto NT555's, HID kit for headlights and fogs, Carbon Fiber radiator shroud, wire loom, and battery terminal covers. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| El Cazador Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Port Royal, SC
Posts: 10,724
View this user's gallery iTrader: 27 / 100% | What part #'s are those shocks Jeff?
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| 600 HP Club! Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Fayetteville,NC
Posts: 2,191
View this user's gallery iTrader: 4 / 100% | Tc1540p
__________________ ![]() *Built and Tuned by Arthur Todd in Conway,SC* Street Tune: 621HP/650RWTQ at 16psi 14* timing 93oct. Fuel with 6lb lower/3.5" upper Kenne Bell 2.6L AVT Built Motor with Manley Rods, Manley Pistons and all ARP Hardware, JLP Stage II CNC Ported Heads, Stage II Comp Cams, Custom Air Box and 4" Intake Tube, SCT BA2400, JLP/Bassani Competition R 3" Exhaust, JDM Electric Fan Kit, JLP Powercooler, AFCO Heat Exchanger, Walbro fuel pumps, 60# Injectors, FTVB, F-250 Super Duty Transmission Cooler, JLP Traction Bars, QA1's all around, So-Cal shock extenders, Nitto NT555's, HID kit for headlights and fogs, Carbon Fiber radiator shroud, wire loom, and battery terminal covers. |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| El Cazador Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Port Royal, SC
Posts: 10,724
View this user's gallery iTrader: 27 / 100% | I think I might know what you're doing wrong... When Bob and I were removing and re-installing my QA1's this weekend, we found out that the only way to get them out/in is to compress the shock and slightly slant the mounting bar. Then once it's bolted in from the bottom, reach through the coil spring with your fingers and pull the shock up to the mounting tower. Make sure you have them set to zero when doing this. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Registered User | The bottom mounting bar needs to be 90 degrees out to slide it up. Once you get it even with the bottom of the studs, twist the bar onto the studs. ....another note: Do not over tighten the upper nut. If you do they will be impossible to get off. The upper bushings should look like Spencer's pic; uncompressed. |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| 600 HP Club! Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Fayetteville,NC
Posts: 2,191
View this user's gallery iTrader: 4 / 100% | Arthur finally installed them for me...
__________________ ![]() *Built and Tuned by Arthur Todd in Conway,SC* Street Tune: 621HP/650RWTQ at 16psi 14* timing 93oct. Fuel with 6lb lower/3.5" upper Kenne Bell 2.6L AVT Built Motor with Manley Rods, Manley Pistons and all ARP Hardware, JLP Stage II CNC Ported Heads, Stage II Comp Cams, Custom Air Box and 4" Intake Tube, SCT BA2400, JLP/Bassani Competition R 3" Exhaust, JDM Electric Fan Kit, JLP Powercooler, AFCO Heat Exchanger, Walbro fuel pumps, 60# Injectors, FTVB, F-250 Super Duty Transmission Cooler, JLP Traction Bars, QA1's all around, So-Cal shock extenders, Nitto NT555's, HID kit for headlights and fogs, Carbon Fiber radiator shroud, wire loom, and battery terminal covers. |
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