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Thread: 5.4 Tear-Down Help Main Cap removal

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    5.4 Tear-Down Help Main Cap removal

    I thought it would be similar to my 4.2, since it was the same casting without the rear 2 cylinders.. DOH..

    anyways.. I got the block completly torn down.... but I cannot get the main caps off of the crank... i got all the bolts out, and have tried and tried and tried.... I noticed there are these funky looking screw/bolt type things in the sides of all the main caps... they seem to keep the main caps snug...

    any suggestions... this is the last thing then tomorrow I am off to the machine shop.

    its cold outside, and i would like to finishe this off tonight.. PLEASE HELP...

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  3. #2
    Student of Horsepower
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    You know.....maybe you should go get a Hayne's manual.....cause if you haven't figured out that the block is cross bolted by now.....YOU NEED HELP.

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    From the service manual.

    Windsor engines (5.4L)
    53. Remove the fasteners.
    1. Remove and discard the cross-mounted main cap bolts.
    2. Remove the dowels.
    3. Remove and discard the main bearing cap bolts.



    All engines
    54. Remove the five main bearing caps, the lower crankshaft main bearings and the lower thrust washer.



    55. Remove the crankshaft, the upper crankshaft main bearings and the upper thrust washers from the cylinder block.

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    ok,ok... I already removed the side bolts.. im not an idiot.. these mains just dont come out...

  6. #5
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    Did you remove the dowels?

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    mine popped loose no problem... +1^

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    the dowels threw me off...

    this block had them in there tight....

    I got them... Off to the machine shop tomorrow she goes...

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    do you re-use the main studs, or do you get new? are the used once?
    does ARP make main studs? what about the bolts on the side of the block for the mains?

  10. #9
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    I would not reuse them, they are TTY, go with ARP studs and bolts for the rods and mains. That is what I used.

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    Main bolts are TTY, SON OF A BEEETTCH!!!

    OH man!!
    I have to build another 5.4 for my truck as well. It just bit one to have to drop an ARM to get a set of head studs, now I have to loose a LEG as well for a set of main bolts or studs!! SHIIITTT! I guess its the payback for those other reusable gaskets?

    Lowflyingbird

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    ok... I will be contacting support vendors for all the head bolts, main bolts, that I may need..

    my rods came with arp2000 bolts.. so I'm good there....

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    I see this going oh so badly in my head..

    2003 #519 DSG stock and clean!
    2000 #1993 Oxford white..Not stock!
    1994 #549 Red.. Pretty much stock
    1994 #2544 Black.. Shop race truck project
    1999 35th Anniversary Mustang GT. 5.1 stroker, D&D Viper spec 6 speed, Weldon fuel system, Twin turbo'd, NX wet system, etc, etc...

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    probably.... but your not paying for it, so what do you care... HA...

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    Quote Originally Posted by KwikSilvr View Post
    probably.... but your not paying for it, so what do you care... HA...
    Ive been there and done that bro. I would NEVER build my own again. Its much cheaper to buy a shortblock assembled from a vendor.

    It cost me around 2k to run mine about 20 miles, the first time, and ive built tons of engines, just not modulars. Its definately a different animal. If you dont know what you are doing, save yourself money, time and headache. Take it to someone that knows:oldtu:

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bad as L View Post
    You know.....maybe you should go get a Hayne's manual.....cause if you haven't figured out that the block is cross bolted by now.....YOU NEED HELP.


    LOL! Haynes manual FTL

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