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Old 09-26-2001, 06:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
Jim Lang
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Red face Changing Fuel Filter

Guys, just came in from the driveway, after attempting to change the original fuel filter. I inserted the spring-lock tool into the gastank end, after popping the keepers. As soon as I had that end free, a heck of a lot of gas was draining, I mean, a small steady stream, onto the driveway... This may sound elementary, but, was that just the contents of the old filter, draining, and nothing more??? (It isn't a very large vessel)... I panicked, and re-inserted the end I had taken loose, and re-clipped the keepers, so I can get some feedback from some of ya'll, that have tackled this maintenance-task. Did you put a drain pan under the location, and just let it drain, first, etc.? ( It is recommended, that the filter be changed every 10K miles, and once I have the info., I can do it regularly..)

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Silver `00 #2189 of 4966.Final Assembly, Thurs. 13Apr`00. nlocmember#524
 
Old 09-26-2001, 06:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
DB
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There will be a bit of spillage, some from the old filter and some will come out of the line...the trick is to put one of those plastic caps that come with the new filter (if not, something to stop up the line) on each side of the line as soon as you've released a side with the tool. This should keep the mess to a minimum.

Hope this helps!



[This message has been edited by DB (edited 09-26-2001).]
 
Old 09-26-2001, 07:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
Scott
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Best way to minimize the amount of fuel spillage is to pop the button up on the inertia switch and start the truck (it will only run a second or so).

The inertia switch is right behind the passenger side kick panel. You'll see a red button in the center of it. Put a small screw driver in and push it up, it doesn't take much pressure at all. The switch is designed to cut-off fuel in case of an accident.

--Scott
 
Old 09-26-2001, 08:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
noelvm
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Talking

Put on lift. Loosen both locks and both internal hose clamps with tool. Push/pull filter to loosen in cage. Tie red shop rag around arm to catch gas. Remove front, pull forward removing rear. Have new one ready to go. Push into rear hose first. Insstall front. Push both ends until you hear the click. Install locks. Start engine and check for leaks. Oh, remove rag from arm.
noelvm
 
Old 09-26-2001, 09:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
Jim Lang
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Wink

Thanks, to all who replied! I believe I can proceed with newly honed shade-tree accuracy!!!!!

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Silver `00 #2189 of 4966.Final Assembly, Thurs. 13Apr`00. nlocmember#524
 
Old 09-26-2001, 09:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
BOSTONL
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Can somebody please tell me where you found the tool (part #, manufacturer)? I can't find one anywhere.
Thanks

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Ed
WHITE'00 #2006
 
Old 09-26-2001, 09:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
Paulie Pecans
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I was wondering the same thing ?
 
Old 09-26-2001, 10:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
LightningJMP
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Part # for the Motorcraft is FG-986B not sure about other brands, hope this helps.

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James Pikinton
1999 Ford Lightning - Aluminum Driveshaft, Bassani Exhaust, NGK TR6's
1997 Mustang GT - For Sale
2000 Suzuki GSXR-750 - Yoshimura RS-3
 
Old 09-27-2001, 09:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
LIGHTNINROD
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The 'tool' can be found at most auto parts stores. It's not a Ford tool--made by several different mfgrs--should cost about $11-13. Dan
Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BOSTONL:
Can somebody please tell me where you found the tool (part #, manufacturer)? I can't find one anywhere.
Thanks

</font>
 
Old 09-27-2001, 09:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
BOSTONL
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Dan,
Thanks.

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Ed
WHITE'00 #2006
 
Old 09-27-2001, 10:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
Jim Lang
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A set of spring-lock tools-5 or6 different sizes-is available at Auto Zone. They are nylon, in different colors, representing the respective sizes, about $8.50.

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Silver `00 #2189 of 4966.Final Assembly, Thurs. 13Apr`00. nlocmember#524
 
 

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