turbodgumby

Does anyone know what the percentage of power loss a C6 is?? I know an E4OD is between 19%-21% which would put me over 700flywheel hp!!! and over 800 flywheel trq!! poor stock shortblock and stock trans/rear end



but its sure fun!!

reason I am asking is I am trying to figure the power difference a fully rollerized C6 would draw in comparison?? also does anyone know what the %% of draw a gear vendors overdrive unit has on it also??

thanks guys!

Jamie V

Your going to get a lot of different opinions and theories for this. You will have a couple different things that you have to factor. First is the torque converter, it will suck up some power and every converter is different. You could have the same trans and different converters and have different rwhp numbers. Also you have to factor the rear end, it will use a certain amount of power also. I really think that it isn't as simple as just a % or a HP/TQ number. I think it is a combination of both.

A rollerized C6 will use less power then an E40D. How much less im not sure. It also weighs about 100lbs less! If your considering building up a C6 and then buying a gear vendors unit your better off just having Paul build you a new E40D. It will be alot cheaper. If you don't care about the OD then just having Paul build you a C6 will be alot cheaper. Depends on what you want/need.

turbodgumby

I can have a fully rollerized C6 built near me here in texas, with hardened input shaft, reverse manual vb, t-brake, billet servo, and converter( i will be getting an Ultimate Converter a friend had in his 363c.i. 88mm powered 95 SALEEN)
I have a deal in the works on a 410w( all forged 4340 in a 69block( not sure how much stronger a 69 block is than a 95??)I plan on a bigger set of heads also but not sure which set to run?

93AZ-L

The 69 blocks are supposed to be a little stronger... but they still have 2-bolt mains. At 700+ hp the mains start to move around and will fail. If you're going to go to the effort to put in a new motor get a block with 4-bolt mains (not a 2-bolt converted to 4-bolt). Any 2-bolt block is going to be questionable past 700hp. I ran my old 393 with an early 70's 2-bolt block for almost 3 years between 780 and 950 flywheel hp. It never let go on me but always ran good fuel and stayed on top of the tune. It was a ticking timebomb.

Jamie V

Pretty much what I was going to say. If your going to spend the money on a built motor don't skimp on the block.

who is building the trans?

turbodgumby

redneck performance in stephenville, tx. its $1575 for trans and converter but I am opting to get the ultimate converter instead!

I was "supposed" to be getting a dart block on a deal i made with someone, but now he is mia and wont return my calls! So what do yall recommend. I am kinda on a tight budget being the wife broke the motor in my 99 Lightning as well. lol.

So now I am having to build a motor for it!... and port the heads with better valves/crower custom grinds/etc. lol

Jamie V

Well I'm not a fan of buget motors. Seems like the one place you skimp ends up wrecking the rest of your stuff.

You really need to plan it all out before you start anything else.

Will it be street driven daily/partially/never
What kind of ET/power goals do you want
How much on the edge do you want to be
How much is the real budget (don't want to get 1/2 way and run out of cash)

It's easy to spend people's money but you want to spend yours carefully. How you want it to drive on the street (handle good still) will effect the suspenison choices, those suspension choices effect how much power you can put to the ground. If you can't put the power to the ground there is no sense making the power. Do you want to manually shift your trans or do you want to just put it in D and go? You said $1575 for trans and converter but you have to add to that a driveshaft and shifter. Add those and compare the price to the E40D.

We need more info to go on.

turbodgumby

street/strip i drive the truck ALOT!!!! and sometimes a couple hours at a time! I asked them if they could do a long tail c6 and they said yes"dropped my power rating down 200hp lol" so I should be able to use the stock drive shaft( not sure if it can handle it I may just get a mark williams input shaft and get a chromoly shaft made and be done with it. I have a hurst quarter stick that is reverse manual already with a t-brake shift knob thats brand new that I bought for my mustang. I wouldnt mind keeping an E4 but i want the t-brake and its litterally half the price to do a comparable C6. I have 3.55 gears in the truck right now and find myself cruising with od off often now so I dont think that is going to be a very hard thing to get used to. And I do understand the need for suspension. I got your phone number Jamie and will call you when I am off work about the ladder bar set-up. I am very interested in that!! Thanks for all you guys input!! I am still trying to learn what works for these trucks but at the same time find what hasn't been tried. I am pretty sure I am at the limit of my stock parts even though I know other people have gone faster than me on stock blocks!

thePUNISHER

lockup converters are beautiful things! cant get one with a c6...big gains can be had with that alone.....and i think that alone would outweight the parasitic difference between the e4 and c6.......

__________________
Paul's ClutchBoxes......performance built E4ODs and 4R100s.... street and COMP valve bodies.

lightning2fast@aol.com

f100cleveland

I know someone who has a Gear Vendors overdrive for a c6 that is about 2 years old and is ready to get rid of it. Extreme duty version with the guts built for a modified Cummins.........

__________________
1994 F100 Lightning "Pro Street"
408c CHI 3V 225cc Heads, 3v Intake, Dave Storlien solid roller, Rollerized c6, UCC 6,000 rpm converter, Transking/Merkl Racing 'brake, AJE k-member front suspension, and Outlaw Ladder Bar's with Strange coilovers.
715 hp and 604 ft lbs @ the flywheel on pump gas.
6.50@106.63 1/8th
10.38@126.96 1/4
1994 F100 Lightning 408c 3v

turbodgumby

More info please!