5-speed Conversion Complete (long...lots of pics)

KU_Engineer · 07-21-2009, 01:32 AM

I haven't posted much on here, but I've been lurking for a while and learned a lot reading through old posts. I had been intrigued by the idea of swapping over to a manual for quite a while. The work done by Mike and Kerry showed that it certainly was possible. Recently my E4OD had been temperamental, so I decided to pull the trigger and do a manual conversion as well. I did all the work in the driveway, with a 1-car garage that served as a workshop.

In this thread I will try to document what I did and how I did it. Some of it was similar to what the other guys did and some was different. Overall, I am very pleased with the results and the truck is a blast to drive.

E4OD Removal:

Somewhat difficult, but not terrible. I had the tech manual to walk me through the steps, which was helpful. The main issue I had was ground clearance under the truck. I had the front end up on jackstands and once I had the trans lowered out of the truck on a jack, I realized I would not be able to roll it under the frame. Thus I came up with a solution:

The ramp allowed me to slide the trans off the jack and clear the c-member and slide it out from under the truck.

Before I started wrenching I had been working on collecting the majority of the parts I needed to complete the swap. I bought a used TKO-600 transmission (3000 miles I was told), aluminum bellhousing, and output yoke for $1770 shipped off the Corral forum. The list prices for these items would be close to $2500, so I saved some cash here. I need to compile a full parts list, but I will comment on most of them as I go through the pics.

For mounting the trans, I utilized an 88-96 manual transmission crossmember with corresponding brackets. I was able to get the c-member and one of the brackets direct from Ford and the other bracket I found locally. To mock things up, I bolted the trans/bellhousing in place and set in the c-member. The E4OD rubber mount bolts right onto the TKO, however this trans must not be as long as the factory model. So, one must bridge the gap between the mount and the c-member.

I decided to use a 3/8" thick piece of steel that was 6" wide to accomplish this. It's heavy enough that it shouldn't ever yield. Also, I checked driveline angles and it got the output within 2 deg of the pinion. It also provided enough clearance between the mid-shifter assembly (not shown) and the floor pan. At this point I also marked reference points on the body for the purpose of laying out my floorpan cuts.

Another purpose of having the trans in was to measure driveshaft length. I measured 55 3/8" from center of front u-joint to rear face of flange (slip yoke all the way in). I then had Joint Clutch and Gear of Romulus, MI fabricate a new driveshaft that was balanced with new 1330 series u-joints. They recommended going 1" shorter than my measured (max) length and made of 3.5" steel tubing (way cheaper than aluminum).

Another bit of pre-work was to check the indexing of the bellhousing. The idea is to measure the concentricity of the bellhousing relative to the crankshaft. This is more of an issue with steel bellhousings, but I decided to check it anyway. I installed the flywheel and bellhousing (minus 2 bolts) and placed a dial indicator base on the flywheel.

I zeroed the indicator and then began rolling the engine over without the plugs in it. Every 90 deg I noted the reading and found it was <0.002" off all the way around. If you're in the 5-10 thou range, I think offset dowels are in order. Thankfully I was OK.

For the transmission itself, I decided to relocate the shifter to I could maintain use of the center console. After doing some measuring I decided to go with the mid-shifter position. It is 6.86" forward from the stock location. I bought the mid-shifter hardware from D&D Performance of Wixom, MI and installed the kit myself. It was pretty easy, but cleaning all the sealing surfaces on the tailshaft housing mating surfaces was a PITA. Tremec has instructions online for a similar (but not identical) kit that also helped. The kit lists for $300. I also installed the correct block off plate for the mechanical speedo drive used in mustangs.

Th next fun item was the pedal assembly/master cylinder mounting. I bought the pedals new from Ford along with an extra firewall block off plate. The slave cylinder I had was a 7/8" bore, so I bought a Wilwood universal unit of the same size. The 5/16" rod end came from McMaster.

I struggled for awhile deciding how to mount the master cylinder itself. The bolt pattern on the cylinder does not match the firewall holes. Ultimately, here's what I did:

1. Drilled our studs in block-off plate
2. Had friend at work mill leftover material from studs (could not pry off)
3. Utilized existing bottom hole for cylinder; drilled new holes for top and cylinder pass-through
4. Clearanced firewall and pedal assembly for the 2 new holes.
5. Studs come from the OEM pedal assembly forward (through the holes I drilled out), but the bottom stud was too short to retain the new master cylinder flange. I drilled it out and installed a longer bolt.

The assembly is a tight fit next to the brake master cylinder, but everything clears.

Just getting the new pedal assembly in and out a couple times took some work. The steering shaft had to be disconnected, although I left the column hanging in place while I worked. Some of the foam insulation on the firewall also had to be cut out to make room for the new bracketry.

The interior part of the linkage also took some modification. The OEM clutch pedal arm came with a notched peg to accept a nylon bushing on the original master. I drilled out the peg, leaving a 3/8" hole. I needed a 5/16" bolt to match my rod end, so I used a little bushing to allow for proper fitment.

I broke out the dremel again to make the cuts in the floor. I had to cut out a section of the heat shield first. Then I laid out my hole for the shifter. It was a 4"x4" hole. However, I did have to open up another inch on the passenger side once the trans was in place (oops...). I did drill a hole in the center first, and placed a pick through to push the carpet out of the way. I didn't want to burn it while cutting the steel. I cut it out from the top with a utility knife afterwards.

With all that stuff out of the way, it was finally time to install all the goodies. First was a FMS roller pilot bearing. I just used a socket to gently tap it place.

Next up were the block plate, flywheel, and clutch. The block plate I bought off ebay. The flywheel is an FMS billet steel unit with the correct 28oz imbalance and I used ARP flywheel bolts. The clutch is a SPEC Stage 2+ for a 26 spline input shaft application. The clutch material is kevlar based and should have plenty of holding ability. The mustang guys use these clutches a lot, so I figured I'd give them a shot. There is some noticeable chatter, so it would not be a great stop-and-go clutch. It was installed with the FMS pressure plate and dowel kit.

Next came the bellhousing, clutch fork and throwout bearing. I suppose now is a good time to mention the clutch slave kit. I bought an external push slave kit from Forte's Parts Connection of MA. It's designed for Ford-TKO applications. They modified the stock cable type fork to accept a rod end. Then, they provided a billet aluminum bracket to mount the slave cylinder to the transmission. They don't show this specific product on their website, but I talked to Mike Forte and this is what he recommended. It's really a trick unit and was well worth the $250 in my book.

Finally, the transmission itself went in. A couple of issues here. First, with the shifter base installed it was impossible to get the peg through the hole in the floor while lining up the input shaft with the clutch, etc. So, this had to be removed and re-installed once mated to the engine. Also, lining up the splines was challenging. I finally got my friend to roll the engine over from the front while I pushed the trans and it went in quickly.

The c-member pieces mount to factory holes in the frame that are forward of the E4OD locations. On the passenger side the heat shield must be clearanced above the frame rail to allow room for the bolts. Even so, I could only fit 1" long bolts on either side.

Lastly, was shifter and boot installation in the cab. The stick is Hurst unit that is 12" high with a 7.5" layback, and a 2" offset towards the driver. Fitment was nearly perfect, but I had to notch the holes a bit to keep the shifter from getting too close to the console in 2-4-R.

The Hurst boot did take a little custom work. They recommend that you place the boot lip under the carpet to improve sealing (makes sense). But, if you do so and lay the trim ring on top, the carpet shows through in the corners which looked sloppy. So, I cut up a bike tube to make rubber flaps mounted under the trim ring to bridge the gap. Now it looks nice and clean!

I had the exhaust finished off by a local shop and am now driving it around. I'm trying to take it easy until the clutch breaks-in, but I forsee plenty of clutch dumps and powershifting in my future. I am using Kerry's PRNDL=N (plugged-in) trick for the computer, and part load driveability has been great thus far. I am having A/F problems (lean) near WOT that I haven't yet diagnosed as hardware or tuning issues. Hopefully I will have them sorted out soon...I'm itching to get to the track.

Well, I know that was ungodly long but I hope the community can benefit from the experiences I tried to document. Feel free to hit me with any questions.

95Blitz · 07-21-2009, 01:52 AM

Great write up and everything looks great..

Skritch · 07-21-2009, 04:28 AM

Great writeup with pics ! A good bit of details in your writeup !!

It just gets me thinkin' again about a manual box. It would make the truck MUCH more fun rowin' the gears IMHO.

Scott

snakebit95 · 07-21-2009, 07:03 AM

Great job. Has a nice factory look to it.

HIVOLTJ · 07-21-2009, 11:12 AM

What's under the hood? Any vibrations on the highway? I think (could be full of it) the reason we had an aluminum d-shaft is because of the 4.10's and increased shaft speed, let us know if you can tell a difference with the steel shaft!

Very good thread, btw, very informative!

madramper · 07-21-2009, 12:44 PM

Awesome job! That is one clean install!

I have a steel DS in mine and don't feel any difference.

slow94 · 07-21-2009, 12:52 PM

nice work

I bet it is a blast to drive.

plum360415 · 07-21-2009, 01:28 PM

SWEET!!!!!!!! more 5-sp L's!!!! Nice job, and great write up. Fun driving isnt it????

Jamie V · 07-21-2009, 04:50 PM

First 5 speed in a red 94!!!!

Gen195B · 07-21-2009, 06:14 PM

Nice write up and looks awsome!! Well done.

If you don't mind sharing, what was the total cost for this conversion?

pickup man · 07-21-2009, 07:37 PM

Will that slave work with a factory master?

O'doyle · 07-21-2009, 08:08 PM

Very nice!!! This is inspiring.....!!!!!

KU_Engineer · 07-21-2009, 11:56 PM

Thanks for all the positive feedback guys! It was really a fun project, I just had to take my time and try to plan out the details before I got ahead of myself.

Quote:

What's under the hood? Any vibrations on the highway?

The engine is the stock long block with a Paxton Novi 1000 supercharger. So far I'm only running ~7 psi of boost, but I'm still working on getting it 100% dialed in. For fuel I'm running 42 lb injectors with a 2 pump trick. I use a Tweecer RT (now with BinaryEditor software) with and LC-1 wideband for tuning. Also I have a Mark VII fan with Ed's wiring kit as well as some MSD ignition goodies. During the swap I also installed MAC 1 5/8" primary long tube headers.

No vibrations to speak of. They balanced they shaft after it was welded so it should be ok. With the 0.64 OD highway RPM's are reasonable as well. At 80 mph I'm tachin' around 2500.

Quote:

Fun driving isnt it????

Oh yeah, it's sweeeeet! I've loved manuals ever since I could drive. It already seems like the 5-speed has been there all along.

Quote:

If you don't mind sharing, what was the total cost for this conversion?

I honestly haven't done the final tally myself. When I compile my parts list I will include prices.

Quote:

Will that slave work with a factory master?

It might, but I really can't say. It's really a question of volumes. The slave itself is made by CNC (PN 305) and is a 7/8" bore by 1.25" stroke. To be safe it makes sense to have a master that moves an equal volume (which my Wilwood does). However, there are variables such as: how much travel does it actually take to fully disengage the clutch from the flywheel, and how much travel can be provided by the clutch pedal over its full range.

With my master I definitely have some leeway. Originally I had the clutch pedal adjusted to use its full travel. After some driving I felt the release point was too far off the floor for my liking. So, I threaded the rod end farther onto the master to shorten the overall pedal travel.

So, I think you'd need to understand the fluid volume of the OEM master to answer that question.

lilboss82 · 07-22-2009, 06:09 PM

How's the pedal stiffness on this setup with those hydraulic components?

Diesel_brad · 07-22-2009, 11:32 PM

I so want a 5spd in my truck!

Nice write up too

07-21-2009, 01:32 AM	#1 (permalink)
KU_Engineer Novi 1K + 5 Speed fun Paid Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Livonia, MI Posts: 32 NLOC member #: 2264 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	5-speed Conversion Complete (long...lots of pics) I haven't posted much on here, but I've been lurking for a while and learned a lot reading through old posts. I had been intrigued by the idea of swapping over to a manual for quite a while. The work done by Mike and Kerry showed that it certainly was possible. Recently my E4OD had been temperamental, so I decided to pull the trigger and do a manual conversion as well. I did all the work in the driveway, with a 1-car garage that served as a workshop. In this thread I will try to document what I did and how I did it. Some of it was similar to what the other guys did and some was different. Overall, I am very pleased with the results and the truck is a blast to drive. E4OD Removal: Somewhat difficult, but not terrible. I had the tech manual to walk me through the steps, which was helpful. The main issue I had was ground clearance under the truck. I had the front end up on jackstands and once I had the trans lowered out of the truck on a jack, I realized I would not be able to roll it under the frame. Thus I came up with a solution: The ramp allowed me to slide the trans off the jack and clear the c-member and slide it out from under the truck. Before I started wrenching I had been working on collecting the majority of the parts I needed to complete the swap. I bought a used TKO-600 transmission (3000 miles I was told), aluminum bellhousing, and output yoke for $1770 shipped off the Corral forum. The list prices for these items would be close to $2500, so I saved some cash here. I need to compile a full parts list, but I will comment on most of them as I go through the pics. For mounting the trans, I utilized an 88-96 manual transmission crossmember with corresponding brackets. I was able to get the c-member and one of the brackets direct from Ford and the other bracket I found locally. To mock things up, I bolted the trans/bellhousing in place and set in the c-member. The E4OD rubber mount bolts right onto the TKO, however this trans must not be as long as the factory model. So, one must bridge the gap between the mount and the c-member. I decided to use a 3/8" thick piece of steel that was 6" wide to accomplish this. It's heavy enough that it shouldn't ever yield. Also, I checked driveline angles and it got the output within 2 deg of the pinion. It also provided enough clearance between the mid-shifter assembly (not shown) and the floor pan. At this point I also marked reference points on the body for the purpose of laying out my floorpan cuts. Another purpose of having the trans in was to measure driveshaft length. I measured 55 3/8" from center of front u-joint to rear face of flange (slip yoke all the way in). I then had Joint Clutch and Gear of Romulus, MI fabricate a new driveshaft that was balanced with new 1330 series u-joints. They recommended going 1" shorter than my measured (max) length and made of 3.5" steel tubing (way cheaper than aluminum). Another bit of pre-work was to check the indexing of the bellhousing. The idea is to measure the concentricity of the bellhousing relative to the crankshaft. This is more of an issue with steel bellhousings, but I decided to check it anyway. I installed the flywheel and bellhousing (minus 2 bolts) and placed a dial indicator base on the flywheel. I zeroed the indicator and then began rolling the engine over without the plugs in it. Every 90 deg I noted the reading and found it was <0.002" off all the way around. If you're in the 5-10 thou range, I think offset dowels are in order. Thankfully I was OK. For the transmission itself, I decided to relocate the shifter to I could maintain use of the center console. After doing some measuring I decided to go with the mid-shifter position. It is 6.86" forward from the stock location. I bought the mid-shifter hardware from D&D Performance of Wixom, MI and installed the kit myself. It was pretty easy, but cleaning all the sealing surfaces on the tailshaft housing mating surfaces was a PITA. Tremec has instructions online for a similar (but not identical) kit that also helped. The kit lists for $300. I also installed the correct block off plate for the mechanical speedo drive used in mustangs. Th next fun item was the pedal assembly/master cylinder mounting. I bought the pedals new from Ford along with an extra firewall block off plate. The slave cylinder I had was a 7/8" bore, so I bought a Wilwood universal unit of the same size. The 5/16" rod end came from McMaster. I struggled for awhile deciding how to mount the master cylinder itself. The bolt pattern on the cylinder does not match the firewall holes. Ultimately, here's what I did: 1. Drilled our studs in block-off plate 2. Had friend at work mill leftover material from studs (could not pry off) 3. Utilized existing bottom hole for cylinder; drilled new holes for top and cylinder pass-through 4. Clearanced firewall and pedal assembly for the 2 new holes. 5. Studs come from the OEM pedal assembly forward (through the holes I drilled out), but the bottom stud was too short to retain the new master cylinder flange. I drilled it out and installed a longer bolt. The assembly is a tight fit next to the brake master cylinder, but everything clears. Just getting the new pedal assembly in and out a couple times took some work. The steering shaft had to be disconnected, although I left the column hanging in place while I worked. Some of the foam insulation on the firewall also had to be cut out to make room for the new bracketry. The interior part of the linkage also took some modification. The OEM clutch pedal arm came with a notched peg to accept a nylon bushing on the original master. I drilled out the peg, leaving a 3/8" hole. I needed a 5/16" bolt to match my rod end, so I used a little bushing to allow for proper fitment. I broke out the dremel again to make the cuts in the floor. I had to cut out a section of the heat shield first. Then I laid out my hole for the shifter. It was a 4"x4" hole. However, I did have to open up another inch on the passenger side once the trans was in place (oops...). I did drill a hole in the center first, and placed a pick through to push the carpet out of the way. I didn't want to burn it while cutting the steel. I cut it out from the top with a utility knife afterwards. With all that stuff out of the way, it was finally time to install all the goodies. First was a FMS roller pilot bearing. I just used a socket to gently tap it place. Next up were the block plate, flywheel, and clutch. The block plate I bought off ebay. The flywheel is an FMS billet steel unit with the correct 28oz imbalance and I used ARP flywheel bolts. The clutch is a SPEC Stage 2+ for a 26 spline input shaft application. The clutch material is kevlar based and should have plenty of holding ability. The mustang guys use these clutches a lot, so I figured I'd give them a shot. There is some noticeable chatter, so it would not be a great stop-and-go clutch. It was installed with the FMS pressure plate and dowel kit. Next came the bellhousing, clutch fork and throwout bearing. I suppose now is a good time to mention the clutch slave kit. I bought an external push slave kit from Forte's Parts Connection of MA. It's designed for Ford-TKO applications. They modified the stock cable type fork to accept a rod end. Then, they provided a billet aluminum bracket to mount the slave cylinder to the transmission. They don't show this specific product on their website, but I talked to Mike Forte and this is what he recommended. It's really a trick unit and was well worth the $250 in my book. Finally, the transmission itself went in. A couple of issues here. First, with the shifter base installed it was impossible to get the peg through the hole in the floor while lining up the input shaft with the clutch, etc. So, this had to be removed and re-installed once mated to the engine. Also, lining up the splines was challenging. I finally got my friend to roll the engine over from the front while I pushed the trans and it went in quickly. The c-member pieces mount to factory holes in the frame that are forward of the E4OD locations. On the passenger side the heat shield must be clearanced above the frame rail to allow room for the bolts. Even so, I could only fit 1" long bolts on either side. Lastly, was shifter and boot installation in the cab. The stick is Hurst unit that is 12" high with a 7.5" layback, and a 2" offset towards the driver. Fitment was nearly perfect, but I had to notch the holes a bit to keep the shifter from getting too close to the console in 2-4-R. The Hurst boot did take a little custom work. They recommend that you place the boot lip under the carpet to improve sealing (makes sense). But, if you do so and lay the trim ring on top, the carpet shows through in the corners which looked sloppy. So, I cut up a bike tube to make rubber flaps mounted under the trim ring to bridge the gap. Now it looks nice and clean! I had the exhaust finished off by a local shop and am now driving it around. I'm trying to take it easy until the clutch breaks-in, but I forsee plenty of clutch dumps and powershifting in my future. I am using Kerry's PRNDL=N (plugged-in) trick for the computer, and part load driveability has been great thus far. I am having A/F problems (lean) near WOT that I haven't yet diagnosed as hardware or tuning issues. Hopefully I will have them sorted out soon...I'm itching to get to the track. Well, I know that was ungodly long but I hope the community can benefit from the experiences I tried to document. Feel free to hit me with any questions. __________________ Red 1994 - #28/4007 TKO 600 Transmission - Novi 1000 Supercharger - Mark VIII Fan - MAC 1 5/8" Headers - 42 lb Injectors - 2 Pump Trick - StruckBy Mass Air (A9L PCM) - Tuning with QH/BE/EA - No FMU!

07-21-2009, 01:52 AM	#2 (permalink)
95Blitz Registered User Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Dothan, AL, USA Posts: 2,573 View this user's gallery iTrader: 6 / 100%	Great write up and everything looks great.. __________________ Steven D 95L 185 AFR's 5.0 cam 1.72RR's Vortech T-Trim 8" lower 2.95 upper intercooled 1 5/8 longtubes throttle body spacer 1" intake spacer TwEECer MSD everything 60lbers 255lph inline 2pump trick 2800 stall B&M shift kit Mark8 fan Detroit Locker LFP long bars line lock 2 step 1/8 7.59@90 60' 1.75 484hp 532tq http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ujqmyukTtY PS3 tag Blitz_95

07-21-2009, 04:28 AM	#3 (permalink)
Skritch Moderator Paid Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: The socialist kingdom of Washington State Posts: 4,667 NLOC member #: 1461 View this user's gallery iTrader: 6 / 100%	Great writeup with pics ! A good bit of details in your writeup !! It just gets me thinkin' again about a manual box. It would make the truck MUCH more fun rowin' the gears IMHO. Scott __________________ Toyota: accelerating on it's own....stopping for nothing !

07-21-2009, 11:12 AM	#5 (permalink)
HIVOLTJ Formerly 89notchcrustang Paid Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Billings, MT Posts: 1,723 NLOC member #: 2681 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	What's under the hood? Any vibrations on the highway? I think (could be full of it) the reason we had an aluminum d-shaft is because of the 4.10's and increased shaft speed, let us know if you can tell a difference with the steel shaft! Very good thread, btw, very informative! __________________ Last edited by HIVOLTJ; 07-21-2009 at 11:17 AM..

07-21-2009, 12:44 PM	#6 (permalink)
madramper Supporting Vendor Paid Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Alloway, NJ Posts: 11,493 NLOC member #: 937 View this user's gallery iTrader: 43 / 100%	Awesome job! That is one clean install! I have a steel DS in mine and don't feel any difference. __________________ Black 93 #4693 - 7-2-93 Matt Hill Motorsports Tuned 550 RWHP 570 RWTQ Videos




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07-21-2009, 07:03 AM	#4 (permalink)
snakebit95 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 104 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Great job. Has a nice factory look to it.

07-21-2009, 12:52 PM	#7 (permalink)
slow94 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Pimlico S.C. Posts: 1,053 View this user's gallery iTrader: 1 / 100%	nice work I bet it is a blast to drive.

07-21-2009, 01:28 PM	#8 (permalink)
plum360415 Mopar and Fords!!!!!!!!! Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Canton, IL Posts: 2,015 View this user's gallery iTrader: 5 / 100%	SWEET!!!!!!!! more 5-sp L's!!!! Nice job, and great write up. Fun driving isnt it???? __________________ Former Gen1 owner..... 1994 #1665 5-sp gen 1 L.... Replacment 97 Cobra #799

07-21-2009, 04:50 PM	#9 (permalink)
Jamie V Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Atco, NJ Posts: 794 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	First 5 speed in a red 94!!!! __________________

07-21-2009, 06:14 PM	#10 (permalink)
Gen195B Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Ellsworth, Maine Posts: 39 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Nice write up and looks awsome!! Well done. If you don't mind sharing, what was the total cost for this conversion?

07-21-2009, 07:37 PM	#11 (permalink)
pickup man Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: largo Florida Posts: 204 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Will that slave work with a factory master?

07-21-2009, 08:08 PM	#12 (permalink)
O'doyle Will it ever end? Paid Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Shawnee, OK Posts: 2,500 NLOC member #: 2415 View this user's gallery iTrader: 24 / 100%	Very nice!!! This is inspiring.....!!!!!

07-22-2009, 06:09 PM	#14 (permalink)
lilboss82 Kamikaze Rusty Paid Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Chalmette, LA Posts: 301 NLOC member #: 1895 View this user's gallery iTrader: 2 / 100%	How's the pedal stiffness on this setup with those hydraulic components?

07-22-2009, 11:32 PM	#15 (permalink)
Diesel_brad Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Gilbert PA Posts: 379 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	I so want a 5spd in my truck! Nice write up too

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