svt450

Hey guys!
I am going to be installing some headers and an X pipe this week. Is there anything I need other than new gaskets?? These should all bolt tho the stock locations. Should I get new header bolts??
Any tips or things to look out for would be nice!

Thanks!
Jason

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Jason
NLOC #441
Red 94
#1554
FMS Mass Air
Powerdyne,6PSI
190LPH Inline
Flow-masters
Dual Electric Fans
MSD BTM
14.02@98MPH SO FAR!!!!!!!

Now with Ranchos!!

www.maddogpyro.com (under construction)

Muddmann

prepare for frustration

...that back side bolt on the pax side is a @*#&% to get tight.

...but well worth the effort.

if i were to do it over again, id investigate the Stage 8 locking header bolts, sounds like a good thing

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'93 Lightning
-all the bolt-ons
-Jacobs ignition
-full exhaust
-Level 10 tranny
-TFS Stage II heads
-Kenne Bell Blowzilla
-357 Long-Rod on the brain...

if i stop runnin, the evil little clowns will get me...

94SVT437

I am guessing these are used headers that you picked up. You will need different bolts to get the headers to work. My bassani's came with a 3/8 hex headed bolt. The stock bolt heads are 9/16s I believe. If you look at them you can see that they will not work with your new headers.

Also when do the passanger side header on put the back bolt in first and then do your front bolt.

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Justin DiPalma
NLOC # 555
Black 94 #437
Power Dyned,
13.703 @ 100.38 MPH

lil'Zeus

Heres a tip that worked well for me, and I'm currently installing my old headers and full exhaust on our white 94!

I have 7/16" bolts that Bassanni gave me! Some of them are so tight you can't get the wrench on them! What I did was get a old, or a cheap wrench the size I needed(7/16") and ground on it! I mean the box ended part of the wrench I just ground it down to wear it was thin enought to slip fit onto the bolts, not matter how tight the bolts where to the primary bends!

And about the passenger side rear bolt, it is a PITA......but once the cat pipe is out you can get to it from the bottom side and its no problem!

JMO..........

Later

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Shane L.

<NLOC post whore> LOL

3 trucks that don't run to bad!

Justin347

for the pass rear bolt got got some stubby wrenches from wal-mart for 5 bucks they make the back bolt much easier...

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95 Red L #841
Bassani full exhaust

88 mustang lx
Not stock W/347 & D2 Procharger

fordfreak95

Just take your time! Do not get mad and rip at stuff. Make sure the header mounting surface is CLEAN before you mount your headers/new gaskets. Get a set of stage 8 locking header bolts, they are stainless steal and work great. Make sure that you cut the smog pipe tube in the correct spot before you make your cut, use a pipe cutter(the kind for cutting copper water pipe). Use baby powder on the rubber conector tube that slips over the 2 smog pipe pieces(makes it very easy to slide the rubber tube onto the metal pipes). *Use stainless bolts at every point posible!! Once you have started your L and alowed the gaskets to seat then go back and retighten all your bolts. It is not that bad if you don't get mad at the job in front of you. But it is a pain to get at that header bolt that everyone else is talking about, but you will figure something out.
Good luck! Matt Andrade

Muddmann

lol...

im with Shane on this one, i also got ahold of an extra wrench and gut it in half, and ground down the outer edges to make it nice and thin.

...i was questioning wether or not Sears would honor its warranty with such modifications...err, i mean accidental breakage

Litng1

LOL yep Muddmann thats what I did to.

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Marcus Harrison
Member of HARRISON MOTORSPORTS
Home of F.U.Racing(Fords Unlimited)
NLOC#495
Hungry out of work eat your IMPORT

Mike Gager

whatever you do dont get 7/16" header bolts. try to find 3/8" header bolts, they make things so much easier