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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Will work for mods | I'm sure you'll hear many opinions on this subject, but I have the AEM Brute force 98mm and I like it mostly due to its simplicity of design. The Chickenears cool aid and the PSP fast air (if you can find it) are nice pieces too. I have heard though, from others that those snorkel tubes running down to the lower valance(sp?) pick up alot of sand and require cleaning of the filter more often. Honestly, if you want to lower your IAT2 temps, invest in a cooler box or killer chiller rather than worry about a CAI, all of them are better than stock. JMO |
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| Will work for mods | Quote:
BTW there's some great info on the subject here cold air kits Last edited by DolSVT00; 12-26-2007 at 11:41 PM.. | |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Registered User | Yes it has a heat sheild, but the factory box is sealed completely from any hot air intrusion, and I just read that the stock airbox is good for up to 700 hp with no problems of restriction in any way. Yes I seen that article, so why even bother with a CAI kit, just put a k and n in the stock box and go. Until you reach 700 hp it doesnt do squat. Last edited by srteric; 12-26-2007 at 11:46 PM.. |
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| Will work for mods | Quote:
I have also read that if you open the hole in the fender well to the actual size of the rubber pick up boot on the stock air box it will add HP. Those articles alone prove the stock box's inefficent design and convinced me to buy a CAI. I have also done those mods but they create a new problem, when you add a pulley combined with the restriction of the stock tube you increase Maf counts and increase the chance of the stock maf pegging (I have datalog's to prove this) After adding a larger diameter tube VIA CAI it actually decreased Maf counts and IAT2's at WOT. | |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Registered User | so sucking hot air is better? I mean you might gain with the MAC but then it loses because it is sucking HOT air in, it seems like whatever you gain you lose. Thought of making a box to enclose the mac heat sheild and then route a tube, it just seems stupid to have the K and N in the engine compartment. Last edited by srteric; 12-27-2007 at 12:15 AM.. |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Living The Dream | Hot air(so to speak) is better than NO AIR.... Stick with the MAC for now bro.
__________________ 410HP/537TQ 2001, 6lb lower, Accufab TB, magnaflow catback, valve body, C&L Plenum, custom chiller box, Diablo chip and tune, 2-4 lowered, 58" traction bars,Reflexxion cowl hood,k&n cai. Tuned by FINISHLINE PERFORMANCE Denver, Colorado........... ![]() |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Super Moderator Paid Member | I got the MAC too, seems to get the air in there ok. I spent a considerable amount of time this year data logging the effects of IAT1 and 2 temps with 2 different aftermarket filter kits and the stock airbox. The results were quite interesting. The stock air box kept things cooler but not as much as one would think. The MAC and LFP kit were the two aftermarket setups I tested. None of this was too scientific more just fact finding. Here is what I found: Above 25mph all three provided same IAT1 temps after a few minutes of travel at that speed. Stopped and idling for prolonged periods of time, the two aftermarket kits raised the IAT1 temps quicker than the stock airbox but only like 5-6 degrees difference at the most. After you get the truck moving at 25 mph for a couple minutes they all read the same again. Dale Robertson mentioned that some playing with the plastic cover over the top of the radiator may make for better airflow into the open filter area. The stock airbox even with a kn panel in there is still subject to flow restriction based on the inlet side of the box, not so much the filter, probably why so many has had good results drilling holes in the box. The IAT results were so negligible, I wouldnt think twice about removing the stock air box in favor of more flow potential. Steve Last edited by Super Glide; 12-27-2007 at 04:32 PM.. |
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