Lightningdaily Build Thread

[lightningdaily]

UPDATE: Changing this to a build thread so y'all can see the journey of a 28 year old daily driven Lightning. I would love expert input if you wish to chime in. My only knowledge prior to owning a L in trucks was sitting for 4 hours in traffic daily for the past 20+ years of my life in one. Welcome to my restoration/memorial build. I will be attempting to repair this truck by myself to the best of my ability, unless it deals with fluids - I do not have a safe way of disposing of waste materials.

Folder containing all of my Lightning photos
Photos I put in my posts will be all contained in this Link


1994 White #2640 05/02/94

Mods when I bought the truck:
Center console to Jumpseat
Scytek alarm($20 on amazon!)
Blaupunkt head unit ($20 on amazon!)
Tweeters
Kicker aftermarket speakers
2 Pod Gauage (Oil Pressure & Water Temp)
Redneck EGR Delete
Wicked Time Exhaust Tips
Cervini Ram Air Hood
Cervini Rear Roll Pan
Fiberglass Tonneau Cover

Mostly Stock Besides random screws and zip ties in lieu of screws.


Personal Mods so far:
Atoto S8 head unit & back up camera
Baja HID retrofits - 35W Hylux Ballast, Morimoto H1 Bulbs, Mini X5-R switchback shroud
C Bar LED tail lights
Full LED interior/Exterior bulbs
Viper Alarm

Headlights.jpg

drive.google.com

Not a real fan of the switchbacks but they are to serve a purpose. There are tons of drivers here maybe they will see 3 turn signals and be reminded that they also own a set.

Only focused on my visibility so far.

Issues Experienced 5 weeks into ownership:
Cooling/Air system was failing - Replaced radiator, thermostat, A/C service ports, Recharge.
Aftermarket Oil gauge sending unit failure - Part replaced.
Power Steering pump leak - Replaced all Upper and Lower hoses and replaced fittings.
EGR check engine code 332(?) - EGR was caked and position sensor was seized, vacuum line was severed - Replaced with new EGR valve and position sensor and resealed vacuum line tube.
Electrical surging, needle hops, AMP & Low Battery light - not consistent, Low Power at times.
Gauge Cluster bulbs out, E Brake light does not turn on.
Shifting hard out of 2nd, wheel hop sporadically - Cannot recreate, some runs have multiple occurrences and some none.
Non functioning Wiper/High beam stalk - Part ordered.
Non functioning cigarette lighter.
Broken seat recliner lever.
Broken Pas Fog light
Tonneau cover lock broken & Rubber mounts worn - Lock & Handle replaced, Still cannot figure out the proper name for the bolts with rubber mounts..will get a pic up soon.
Key Falls out of ignition - New Keys, Door locks, and Ignition planned but not a priority
Window Motor/Actuator Failed - Replaced and Installed but switch is backwards, have not had time to switch polarities.


Issues to be addressed soon:
Needs Tires
Needs complete Brake kit - suggestions?
Needs Shocks/Struts (any air guys here? )
Needs a rear end rebuild - leaking from numerous points - E150 conversion?
Found a small split from welds in the engine bay near where the passengers foot is.
Passenger window switch broken
Speaker upgrades

Future plans:
E150 bracket/Saginaw pump
Re-Tint Windows
Star Headliner
Door panel brackets
Waterproof door seals
Sound dampen interior
Replace seat lever
--- --- ---
The reman stock 95amp alternator in my L was feeling and looking gnarly when I got it but with additions of a new head unit and HIDs it’s telling me to upgrade.

I have a 200amp Powermaster coming in but while I’m waiting I am upgrading the power cables as per the big 3/4 but could use some expert advice.

The what I think is the engine to body ground strap is melted a little but still intact. Should I replace OEM and add another ground on it? I am running 1/0, its a little overkill but could be useful for a future upgrade. I also cannot see the connection behind the motor, anybody know where I should be looking? The OEM battery to chassis ground has seen some weathering so Im thinking of upgrading that one as well.

I have planned:

Ground
Chassis to Battery
Battery to Body (x2) (1)4g and (1)1/0
Engine to Body (If I can access it)

Thinking of adding a additional ground from Alternator body to Battery perhaps...

Power
Alternator to Battery - Do I run Stock from Alternator to Solenoid?, Alternator to Mega Fuse to Solenoid?, or Alternator to Mega fuse to Battery?

 

[Steve83]

HIDs use less current than halogens, so they put less load on the alternator.

Post pics of the melted strap.

1/0 is extreme overkill - your truck will never need it, so it's just dead weight and expensive terminals for no benefit. The winch on my black Bronco can pull >400A at full-stall, and it doesn't use 1/0 cable.

IDK what "connection behind the motor" you're looking for.

Weathering is normal and doesn't require any change. There is no "upgrade" for the frame ground - no grade of cable or connection is superior to the factory configuration of the frame ground bolt.

You should simply CLEAN the factory terminals, and apply electrical grease (NOT dielectric, or chassis, or thermal, or anti-seize, or battery snot) to keep them clean longer. Read these:

(click this text)


(click this text)


(click this text)


(click this text)


Pic 1 is not a ground - it's an RFI strap, only used to reduce ignition noise in the radio.

(click this text)


IDK where the cables in Pic 2 are supposed to be going, but a single long run of cable is superior to pieces bolted together.

(click this text)

 

[lightningdaily]

HIDs use less current than halogens, so they put less load on the alternator.

Post pics of the melted strap.

1/0 is extreme overkill - your truck will never need it, so it's just dead weight and expensive terminals for no benefit. The winch on my black Bronco can pull >400A at full-stall, and it doesn't use 1/0 cable.

IDK what "connection behind the motor" you're looking for.

Weathering is normal and doesn't require any change. There is no "upgrade" for the frame ground - no grade of cable or connection is superior to the factory configuration of the frame ground bolt.

You should simply CLEAN the factory terminals, and apply electrical grease (NOT dielectric, or chassis, or thermal, or anti-seize, or battery snot) to keep them clean longer. Read these:

(click this text)


(click this text)


(click this text)


(click this text)


Pic 1 is not a ground - it's an RFI strap, only used to reduce ignition noise in the radio.

(click this text)


IDK where the cables in Pic 2 are supposed to be going, but a single long run of cable is superior to pieces bolted together.

(click this text)

Thanks for the info. I was mistaken thinking I had a weird engine to body ground going. The RFI strap is melted and show bare wire.

Radio Strap.HEIC

drive.google.com

For starters I am the 8th owner of this L, I do not know what is original and what were redneck inspired engineering.

The harness looks to be touched and is running 3 different gauge wire, Ive been having electrical issues so I am trying to rule everything out.

As for 1/0 gauge, yes I know very overkill but I got it for a good deal so were here now.

Black 10/12 gauge looks like was original ground to bat but half the insulation was missing so I took it off, It was running a 4 gauage right next to it from a different ground to battery. If you think the original is superior then I will tape it up and put it back on.

I was looking for the engine ground wire but in the diagram it shows it should be attached to the oil cooler clip on the engine block, so thank you kindly.

Ive read that bit about electrical grease and not dielectric many times on numerous forums. Thank you for educating the masses.

 

[Blurry94]

Only thing that appears to be wrong with the strap is the melted tape. The braided part looks ok, so you could just retape the affected areas. I would recommend Scotch 700 (or the like) because it holds up well under the hood, when exposed to higher temps. Ones like Scotch 33 or 35 tend to melt and leave behind a gooey residue.

 

[Steve83]

The RFI strap is melted and show bare wire.

It looks abraded to me - not melted. Either way, it doesn't matter. The tape is only to keep the braid from abrading other things. It's not electrical insulation, and doesn't really need to be replaced.

The harness looks to be touched and is running 3 different gauge wire, Ive been having electrical issues...

I don't understand what you mean. Post pics, and describe the issues in detail.

...I know very overkill but I got it for a good deal...

If you got 28ga wire for a good deal, that wouldn't make it any better-suited to this application than 1/0. A low price on the wrong part doesn't make it the right part.

...half the insulation was missing...

They're ground wires - they don't need insulation to work.

...It was running a 4 gauage right next to it from a different ground to battery. If you think the original is superior then I will tape it up and put it back on.

Post pics.

...it should be attached to the oil cooler clip on the engine block...

Not exactly... The ground cable's terminal should be directly against the clean block, with the bolt holding it tight. The ATF cooler clip then hangs on the stud on the bolt's head with another nut. Do not connect the ground to the clip.

 

[lightningdaily]

Post pics.

OEM Battery to Body ground, looks ~10/12 gauge - I do not like the way it looks.

Original Ground.HEIC

drive.google.com

Added 4 gauge CCA stereo wire Battery to Body ground - not much a fan of the cheap wire

Added4GaugeCCA.HEIC

drive.google.com

OEM Alternator Positive connection ~10/12 gauge

Alternator Plug.HEIC

drive.google.com

OEM Solenoid

Solenoid.HEIC

drive.google.com

Positive Terminals to Battery from Harness - looks 4 gauge, new to me and harness has been taped up.

Positive Terminals.HEIC

drive.google.com

The positives looks good, the grounds are what im focused on.

You are the expert here. I take no credit of knowing anything. Ive just seen numerous big 3/4 upgrades done when upgrading to a 200amp alt and it is always suggested. I will be upgrading the sound system soon as well so are all the sound guys who run pure copper 1/0 not using it for the right application? I fancy myself a audiophile. You will not see smaller than 8 gauge in my home and Ive had power cables the size about 4/0. I know different scenarios but genuinely curious why stock is superior to new tech that can work better?

 

[Raymond_B]

There’s a gentleman on here named Ed, he goes by Struckby and he sells some very nice upgraded battery/alt cable kits. Don’t tell Steve but they are big full copper welding cable. I have them on my truck with a 225A Powerbastards alt and have rock solid charging. Grounds are like garage sq/ft or big screen TV you can never really go too big or have too many I am sure you know, but be very careful when using “audio” cable for power grounds there’s a lot of cheap crap pretending to be quality. I only use USA full copper cable/wire.

Glad you’re saving one, keep us posted!

 

[lightningdaily]

There’s a gentleman on here named Ed, he goes by Struckby and he sells some very nice upgraded battery/alt cable kits. Don’t tell Steve but they are big full copper welding cable. I have them on my truck with a 225A Powerbastards alt and have rock solid charging. Grounds are like garage sq/ft or big screen TV you can never really go too big or have too many I am sure you know, but be very careful when using “audio” cable for power grounds there’s a lot of cheap crap pretending to be quality. I only use USA full copper cable/wire.

Glad you’re saving one, keep us posted!

Thanks Raymond, I've heard of the name but have not had the pleasure yet. I would love to hear his input as I need the truck on the road asap so just adding cables and not replacing the whole harness at the moment. It could be a project for the future but currently there are more urgent matters. I do not have a garage or a big screen TV so let me just invest pure copper cables, and yes my cables are USA.

Trying my best to save her. Please stay and enjoy the show.

 

[FMOS Racing]

I have Ed's cables on both of my trucks. I subscribe to the "overkill might be just enough" mindset. I'm not trying to engineer millions of vehicles with costs in mind, only want to make sure mine is what I want.

I went through a very similar series of must-dos when I got my 275K mile '94 that I now daily drive - it was a salvage title, front end was messed up, water leaked into the cab, engine leaked like a sieve and smoked like a train, interior had been worked on by a gorilla because everything was broken. Now I'm down to a slow series of want-to-dos and enjoying driving it every day.



Very curious about those lights, especially with the price tag. The ones I have are just meh on the pattern but I have bright bulbs in them. I drive a lot in pre-dawn darkness down 20 miles of 2-lane rural road, and the deer are like antlered rats around here. Just this morning there was a group of 6 standing right off the pavement at one point, and I've had multiple close calls the past two years.

 

[lightningdaily]

I have Ed's cables on both of my trucks. I subscribe to the "overkill might be just enough" mindset. I'm not trying to engineer millions of vehicles with costs in mind, only want to make sure mine is what I want.

I went through a very similar series of must-dos when I got my 275K mile '94 that I now daily drive - it was a salvage title, front end was messed up, water leaked into the cab, engine leaked like a sieve and smoked like a train, interior had been worked on by a gorilla because everything was broken. Now I'm down to a slow series of want-to-dos and enjoying driving it every day.

View attachment 103220

Very curious about those lights, especially with the price tag. The ones I have are just meh on the pattern but I have bright bulbs in them. I drive a lot in pre-dawn darkness down 20 miles of 2-lane rural road, and the deer are like antlered rats around here. Just this morning there was a group of 6 standing right off the pavement at one point, and I've had multiple close calls the past two years.

High mileage squad here as well! As for the headlights they were ~600 shipped, I went with a cheaper set up for todays standards. The newer mled’s will run you over 100 more. I remember in 08 I paid close to 3k for a custom quad setup on the east coast.
The moment I got the truck it became a you see me so don’t hit me mindset so I understand with the deer.

If you have instagram check out bajahid_retrofits, or His store. Guy seems to have his hands full with the OBS squad

I will get more shots up once the truck has power

 

[lightningdaily]

Old EGR vs Installed EGR

Old.HEIC

drive.google.com

Installed.HEIC

drive.google.com

Truck felt smoother, better pedal response and no smell of gasoline in the cabin. BUT the check engine light is still coming on intermittently. So that's something fun I get to figure out. Hoping MPG goes up!

I wish I heard from Steve83, or anybody else who is not running a upgraded harness.
I went ahead with the upgrades to alternator and cables. Powermaster states it is mandatory to run a ground from alternator to engine or engine to ground. I added a ground from the alt block to battery ground. That was wire I was talking about but I read somewhere that Ford did not supply one from factory. I could be wrong but I don't know where it is and did not have the correct tools to access any other point on the engine block. So any help would be great on that one.

Old vs New Alternator Front and Rear views

Front.HEIC

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Rear.HEIC

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Powermaster recommends using a battery has full charge at least 12.6. Checked it out with a volt meter and I just made the cut with mine.
I have a 12v power socket that has a voltage meter - not sure how accurate it is but usually shows 12.6 with battery off. First crank was a little sloppy but it showed 14.1 then warming up it dropped to 13.9. Took a 15 minute drive and everything feels solid. Let the truck cool down, cranked it and was instant and beautiful. Meter showed 14.2 for a bit but then went back to 13.9. Truck no longer has surging I am happy with the outcome.

Atoto S8 Single Din Head Unit

atotos8.HEIC

drive.google.com

Main selling point was wireless carplay - main drawback is it is a china brand and does not use authentic software. It works and gives you the options for adding front camera, reverse camera, tpms, wheel controls and more. It added a lot of power replacing the unit that came with it. For the price I would say I am impressed. Its great for a daily if you use carplay or android wireless, also Ive seen guys run gauges on it but I have no need for that.

Cut off pic from ~25 feet away

cutoff.HEIC

drive.google.com

My first drive with the HIDs in at correct level. So not dialed in yet.
Noticed one bulb flickering, I hope i didn't f it up

--- --- ---

New items of concerns I need to address:

Reversing hard when truck is warmed up
---
I desperately need a quick and affordable rebuild or swap of the drivetrain/axles/what nots. The whole bottom end needs help. Leaking from numerous points under truck and was quoted from a shop 1k for a rebuild. I always hear him talking about rebuilding rear differentials but have no clue if he knows what hes talking about. She squeaks at the moment and its not cute so I would love to figure out how much that will cost.

This goes with needing new brakes, hardware and tires.

The engine feels great but the rest of her needs some love.

Update: Got in the truck this morning, volt meter showed 12v off. Drove out to run an errand then find the closest auto store. On the way there my dash lit up like a christmas tree. I actually thought some bulbs were out in the gauge but they lit up. Replaced battery and got new marine terminals. Business as usual again.

 

[FMOS Racing]

Here's what I did on mine when I got it. All of the items on the to-do list except the dash support and wing vent items are complete. I have the stuff to do them, just haven't taken it on yet. Fall projects when it isn't 100% humidity.

Also noticed that the driver's window will tilt in the tracks, so I need to work on that as well.

Steps in the Right Direction - Build Thread for my two Lightnings

Thats a good looking truck.

www.nloc.net

Steps in the Right Direction

Please put together a part list Jeff. I may end up doing the same thing and needless to say, I’m new at putting together a turbo kit. And yea me too on the reactions! I had a guy do a photo shoot of mine not long ago at Sams…lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

www.nloc.net

 

[Raymond_B]

Did that head unit fit with no issues? No trimming or anything?

 

[lightningdaily]

Did that head unit fit with no issues? No trimming or anything?

Yessir, single din and fits like a glove. You have the option to set between 8/9 heights and between 3 tilts so it works for quite a few vehicles. Just the lack horizontal tilting takes off a point on it’s final score

 

[lightningdaily]

Also noticed that the driver's window will tilt in the tracks, so I need to work on that as well.

Mine does this as well. My door panel is cracked and the window felt won’t stay on so the window just naturally will roll inwards. There’s a bracket to fix this it, i forget what site sells it at the moment.

 

[Steve83]

OEM Battery to Body ground...

That is certainly not OE. Ford would never have allowed a cheap Copper-tube terminal to be hammered down onto the wire, or without strain relief. And that coarse wire doesn't look like what Ford specified, either.

Added 4 gauge CCA stereo wire Battery to Body ground...

That's a dangerously-poor connection from the terminal (which doesn't look to be attached to the wire properly) to the fender. You should be using the original grounding location & bolt (the green one).

OEM Alternator Positive connection

That IS original, and looks OK, if you clean the thin layer of white powder corrosion off the terminal so the Tin/solder is exposed for contact.

OEM Solenoid

That's also not "OEM". OEM means "Original Equipment Manufacturer" which refers to the COMPANY that made the part - not the PART. That isn't OEM, or OE (which means Original Equipment, and refers to the part). You can tell because the Copper & the galvanized nuts are too shiny; and because the nuts lack the captive washer that the originals have; and because the relay (the starter solenoid is ON the starter) has an additional small post (not present or used on these trucks). And I doubt it was made by the OEM because I'm not sure who that was, but I don't think they're still making these - I'm not even sure they're still in business. Modern Ford/MC replacements (which are not OE) come from AmeTek in Mexico (so probably not the OEM).

(click this text)


This is an OE relay with the OE nuts with captive washers, but I drilled out the rivets & cleaned it internally (just to see if I could) which is why it's so-poorly riveted back together (but it still works, decades later):

(click this text)

Positive Terminals to Battery from Harness - looks 4 gauge...

They're too close-up for me to know what gauge they are, but they don't look original to me. They shouldn't be running together in the harness; they should diverge from the battery, as one goes to the relay, and one to the solenoid.

(click this text)

...the grounds are what im focused on.

Then you should either connect them to the body & frame better, or make them irrelevant by running a return-wire system instead of a ground system.

...it is always suggested.

There are MANY things that are often suggested on the interwebz that are wrong, counterproductive, ineffective, or unnecessary. That doesn't mean EVERYTHING is wrong - it just means you can't judge a suggestion's correctness by how many times you see it repeated. I study Ford's designs, and I've attended (& passed) Ford courses on wiring, and I've studied electrical engineering in college, and I've been working with automotive wiring since I was ~18 (a few decades ago); all of which has formed my OPINIONS on "proper" wiring. So that's what I advocate: copying Ford, if not using Ford's parts & designs.

...genuinely curious why stock is superior to new tech that can work better?

There is no "new tech" in Copper wire. It's the same technology from 100 years ago. Only the quality (purity) of the Copper has improved. When properly maintained, Ford wiring will outlast Ford engines or Ford transmissions or Ford truck frames. That's why I recommend maintaining & repairing it, rather than butchering or replacing it. If you want to add or modify some specific circuit for some specific purpose on your vehicle, Ford has published instructions for that, and you can read them on this page:

(click this text)

 

[lightningdaily]

Small Update:
Thank you once again @Steve83 for the Instructionals. If you’re ever in socal and want to help me with the electrical I’m all for it.

The Lightning has been a reliable daily minus having to run the fans manually. My fuel reset light flashes when door is open but truck drives fine, could be corroded harness that connects to fuel reset button?

My front crossmember rusted out and my driver door is warping a little so went junkyard diving.


Going to clean her up and slap a coat of paint on her. Ideally would like to do saginaw swap and replace water pump at the same time.


Can anyone tell me what this part # or replacement is?

Big bonus I found a dash bezel with a aftermarket fog light switch, along with black trim pieces. Last owner hacked up my panel fitting the fog light switch in.

 

[FMOS Racing]

Just bought a set of these (along with a new core support because the OEM is rotting at the mounting points) for my '94. They're not installed yet; waiting on the headlights.

1980-1997 Ford Bronco & F-Series Truck Radiator Mounting Kit-Broncograveyard.com

1980 to 1996 Ford Bronco 8 pc Radiator Core Support Mounting Kit. Also fits 1980-1997 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350 Trucks. Shop and save on classic Ford Truck and Bronco parts today!

shop.broncograveyard.com

 

[Steve83]

If you’re ever in socal and want to help me with the electrical I’m all for it.

A friend in SF wants me to come visit his new house (he hasn't visited mine yet), but I'd have a hard time finding an excuse to go much South of there.

My fuel reset light flashes when door is open but truck drives fine, could be corroded harness that connects to fuel reset button?

There is no fuel reset light or wiring - Ford abandoned it after creating the position in the cluster. If yours has a light, someone added it, and there's no telling how they wired it, without some exploration.

My front crossmember rusted out...

That's not a crossmember - it's the core support. Crossmembers are bolted, riveted, or welded directly to the frame - no rubber isolation.

Can anyone tell me what this part # or replacement is?

The broken part is a bolt, and it probably broke because you didn't take the nut off the top first.

(click this text)

I found a dash bezel...

They're very affordable new from Ford. This is the '94-97 gas version:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O0899A/?tag=aymo-20

You can cut open any panel you need, using a Dremel and common metal files.