Smog pump delete loose???

core-rider

core-rider

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I’ve noticed a slight “clunk or knock” from the grille of my truck lately… while removing the alternator for an upgrade I checked the smog pump delete pulley and it might be the source.

Bolt is tight. I removed the pulley to inspect the bearing and it seems okay. Reinstalled and the spacer behind the pulley doesn’t have slop. I’m almost wondering if there is just enough clearance between the bolt and inside diameter of the bearing that’s giving it this play.

Any suggestions???

https://imgur.com/mbkHJzm
 
After disassembling the pulley and a bit more investigation I found a small bit of slop in the contact between the bearing outer shell and the cavity it sits in the pulley. The snap ring is tight, just a bit more clearance between the pulley and bearing then I think should be. That along with the clearance between the bolt and inner diameter of the bearing combine to make it really move when bolted up.

Think I'll just replace it. It's 10 years old anyway.
 
You're probably reaching the power level where the factory tensioner is going to become an issue.

I've already purchased a GT foxbody bracket and tensioner to go on either truck when I have an issue. The red truck already has a Mustang alternator on it, but with a manual tensioner.
 
Kinda the same problem but different.
Replacing my smog pump delete pulley because of a bit of noise and high milage.
I thought about just replacing the bearing but did not know which one, did not find any numbers.
I bought a new pulley setup from LMR the other day and had 'slop' in the bearing.
Emailed them about it. They sent me another one. Same issue.
They said they have not had any issues with them. They were going to quality check one and send me another.
That one had the same 'slop'.
So now that I have a new one with bearing numbers.

I ordered new Timken bearings 6203-2RS.
I did find 6203-2RS-C2 and C3.
Researched what the difference is. C is clearance
With out the C is tighter and with C2 or C3 is looser as the number gets bigger.

So I don't know what LMR is using. Whether it's the C2 or 3, or a 'cheap' bearing.
But I'm not going to run what they installed.

I have enough 'good' bearings to replace all three of the pulleys I have.
 
Smog pump delete

@siderbox Look at the attached link to UPR and the second pic shoes the difference in their design compared to "others"... the 6203-2RS is the single roller bearing design. UPR uses the 5203-2RS double bearing design now. Mine has their old design with the single bearing so maybe upgrading to the double bearing will help with "slop". Guess I'll see when it comes in hopefully later this week.
 
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core-rider said:
Smog pump delete

@siderbox Look at the attached link to UPR and the second pic shoes the difference in their design compared to "others"... the 6203-2RS is the single roller bearing design. UPR uses the 5203-2RS double bearing design now. Mine has their old design with the single bearing so maybe upgrading to the double bearing will help with "slop". Guess I'll see when it comes in hopefully later this week.
Click to expand...
Well.....damn
This is a good piece of information I could have used a few days ago-haha

I'm going to see what the replacement bearings get me.
If I don't like them, I will get this from UPR
 
I got a factory delete pulley off a 1996 e-150 that I'm gonna put on my 93.

Will be nice to finally run the stock belt length/routing
 
Reminds me LMR cruise video from last year is in the new ad for this years in November.


1715375694869.png
 
Required said:
Reminds me LMR cruise video from last year is in the new ad for this years in November.


View attachment 104994
Click to expand...

Holy crap… that’s my truck… all 0.3 seconds of it!

Trying to decide if I want to make the trip back again this year. It was a fun event, but I spent more time at the KOTOR event overall. Maybe I’ll get lucky and they both happen at the same time again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
core-rider said:
Holy crap… that’s my truck… all 0.3 seconds of it!

Trying to decide if I want to make the trip back again this year. It was a fun event, but I spent more time at the KOTOR event overall. Maybe I’ll get lucky and they both happen at the same time again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I figured you would like that! lol
 
FMOS Racing said:
You're probably reaching the power level where the factory tensioner is going to become an issue.

I've already purchased a GT foxbody bracket and tensioner to go on either truck when I have an issue. The red truck already has a Mustang alternator on it, but with a manual tensioner.
Click to expand...
Be one of the best things you do!

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
 
I had the exact same problem with one of those.
Delete the smog pump and associated mechanical parts, if possible. Then you can run a short belt on a Reverse-S around the crank and water pump pulley, and opposite side of the tensioner. This is something Dave Pickrel recommended to me when I purchased one of his blower kits. I've had it routed like this for roughly 20 years, and I still use the same method...zero issues.
 
My new smog delete came in Friday… doesn’t have any of the “slop” my old one does. I’ll run this one with the upgraded double bearing and see how it does.

FWIW… my old bearing seems to be perfectly fine. It’s apparently developed too much clearance between the bearing and the pulley where the bearing sits. Not sure if it was always that way or has somehow worn over time.


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After reading this I checked mine, I figured that slop was "normal", had a gift card and ordered one from upr and man there is a big difference. Zero slop, cheaper and feels better. So far I'm happy, swapping out tomorrow..... now if I could just get the truck running.....
 
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